HELP! Passlock

[vf1kf]

EDIT: THIS ISSUE HAS BEEN RESOLVED, CHECK POSTS BELOW! YOU DON'T NEED TO BUY A BYPASS MODULE (04-07 confirmed)

So I had an alarm with remote start installed yesterday ( crimeguard 810i6, and I think the installer used a dei passlock bypass ). It's great, and now I can unlock the passenger door for my wife without running around to the drivers side to unlock everything. When I left the installer, everything worked fine.

This morning, I hop in the truck, put the key in and the truck just cranks, and won't catch. The car w/ padlock indicator shows up on the dash. I had to ride my bike to work, and have yet to call the installer ( they open in about half an hour )

Any ideas?

[Jlemm]

happened to me too, after 4 years of getting the alarm installed though. i think the passlock is bad? I just got the remote start disconnected and it's been working fine?

[rune]

Try a relearn cycle. on 10 minutes, off 10 minutes, On.

[vf1kf]

I'll try the relearn. Does anyone here belong to the dei website? I'm trying to get a copy of Directed Doc 1603

I have the audiovox equivilant, I just want to have all the possible info when I go back to the installer.

[Jlemm]

Don't take it to the dealer they'll just give you a new battery and say it's fixed... Also charge you out the ass for the battery

[vf1kf]

Originally Posted by Jlemm

Don't take it to the dealer they'll just give you a new battery and say it's fixed... Also charge you out the ass for the battery

I'll certainly take that advice

[zerostar]

so how do u fix this problem? i will be gettting new alarm as well, and dont want that to happen to me.

[Jlemm]

Originally Posted by zerostar

so how do u fix this problem? i will be gettting new alarm as well, and dont want that to happen to me.

I think it's happened to everyone so far with a remote start! not a clue. Don't get remote start? Lol

[zerostar]

alright i wont

[vf1kf]

there seems to be a simple passlock wiring workaround using two relays and a resistor to match the key cylinder's resistance. I'll show it to my installer this afternoon and see what he thinks.

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...thkey=CMPOrvAG

Has anyone tried this?

[vf1kf]

OK, so I wasn't able to get the truck back to the installer yesterday. I blew out my rear tire on my R6 doing 80 on the freeway...and spent all night getting it back home.

On an upbeat note, while the remote start sets off the passlock, if I wait 15 minutes, I can start the truck with the key again...so I am once again mobile.

After hours of research, I believe I understand the problem with passlock bypass modules and our trucks. The 04-07 Collolado, Canyon, and H3 all have a BCM voltage stabilization issue. For up to 10 seconds after the car is turned on the voltage in the BCM does not stabilize ( not everytime, just sometimes, like after the truck has been sitting in the cold all night ). The passlock unit is programmed to match the resistance of our ignition switch, but with varying voltage, the IC in the modules fails to do so accurately enough to fool passlock.

The link I posted above resolves this issue by simply using a resistor ( not an IC ) that matches the ignition switch values. I will see if this theory holds true this weekend.

Thanks for all your input, I'll keep this post updated.

[Canuck355]

Originally Posted by Jlemm

I think it's happened to everyone so far with a remote start! not a clue. Don't get remote start? Lol

Well so far no problems with mine in my 2008 Canyon, installed myself using i-datalink bypass and two-way autopage alarm/remote start. Installed the same system in a friends 2007 Canyon also and he has had no issues. Both been in since aprox Sept 2010.

Make sure all connections are soldered and good ground location also if your by-pass needs to be flashed make sure it's the latest firmware.

[vf1kf]

I believe the i-datalink module's current firmware revision deals with the BCM voltage stability issue. My installer insisted on using the dei module ( I supplied the idatalink at the recommendation of this forum, they didn't want it )

The following was taken from a post on chevroletforum.com: http://www.chevroletforum.com/forum/...ad.php?t=30139

Originally Posted by CarTeksValpo

Colorado, Canyon, and H3 all the BCM voltage stability issues. This has been a KNOWN problem for a while. iDataLink has addressed the issue in their newest firmware for their ALCA modules. If you are not using their modules, just go back to the old school way of using Directed Doc 1603 for Passlock integration. This method is FAIL-PROOF.

Even using the ALCA module with the newest firmware, I had to program the remote start to do a 10sec. delayed start in order for the BCM to stabilize it's voltage before starting.

Hope this helps!!

[vf1kf]

Originally Posted by vf1kf

there seems to be a simple passlock wiring workaround using two relays and a resistor to match the key cylinder's resistance. I'll show it to my installer this afternoon and see what he thinks.

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...thkey=CMPOrvAG

Has anyone tried this?

For anyone else experiencing issues with remote start, the above posted wiring works well.

[rune]

Interesting. Glad you found a solution. Also seems this would make it easier for more members to install remote start in their vehicle as well.

[Cisco1081]

I used the flashlogic module that best buy has ($100) and no issues. I think you have to have them flash the module with the right software, they did mine for my 06 with no issues.

[Jlemm]

Originally Posted by Cisco1081

I used the flashlogic module that best buy has ($100) and no issues. I think you have to have them flash the module with the right software, they did mine for my 06 with no issues.

How long have you had the remote start? Mine didn't start acting up till like 3 years of having it.

[04colyZQ8]

I can look tomorrow on the bypass module? I used it has been working fine since about 2007 I installed it my self, never a problem, only shortly after the install I had the light come on because my tach wire signal pulled out and it over cracked, then the security light came on, after I fixed that been fine I would take it back to the alarm installer and tell them to fix it! They may not of calibrated the module correctly.

I think you are right in the fact the the resistance is based off voltage, the installer probably wore down your battery during testing and installation set the bypass module to learn off the lower voltage, after you charged the battery (engine running), you now have the wrong Resistance. Take the truck back and get a relearn done on the bypass module for free!

[vf1kf]

Originally Posted by 04colyZQ8

I think you are right in the fact the the resistance is based off voltage, the installer probably wore down your battery during testing and installation set the bypass module to learn off the lower voltage, after you charged the battery (engine running), you now have the wrong Resistance. Take the truck back and get a relearn done on the bypass module for free!

This is correct, but people should know that they DO NOT have to purchase a bypass module if they have a bit of 12v experiance. For GM, there are only 15 possible resistance values ( in our trucks the key's resistance value is built into the lock cylinder, not the key itself ):



FYI: How to Calculate Resistors.

Resistors in Series:
When connecting resistors in series, simply add the values to get your total resistor value:
Resistor Total (Rt) equals Resistor #1 (R1) plus Resistor #2 (R2) and so on...
Rt=R1+R2....
So if you put your resistors in series, you would end up with:
Rt=2700+27000
Rt=29,700 ohms or 2.97 kohms


Resistors in Parallel:
A little more tricky, you have to calculate the reciprocal number of the resistor value:
1/Rt=1/R1 + 1/R2 and so on...
Again, if we use the above resistor values, we would have:
1/Rt= (1/2700) + (1/27000)
1/Rt= 0.00037037 + 0.000037037
1/Rt=0.000407407
To find out your total resistor value, enter 1 divided by the total decimal number into your calculator.
Rt= (1 / 0.000407407)
Rt=2,454.547909 ohms rounded off to 2,455 ohms.

I know this is a bit off of the mechanics side of things, but it might help someone to figure out what resistors they need to bypass the passlock security system.

[04colyZQ8]

Originally Posted by vf1kf

This is correct, but people should know that they DO NOT have to purchase a bypass module if they have a bit of 12v experiance. For GM, there are only 15 possible resistance values ( in our trucks the key's resistance value is built into the lock cylinder, not the key itself ):



FYI: How to Calculate Resistors.

Resistors in Series:
When connecting resistors in series, simply add the values to get your total resistor value:
Resistor Total (Rt) equals Resistor #1 (R1) plus Resistor #2 (R2) and so on...
Rt=R1+R2....
So if you put your resistors in series, you would end up with:
Rt=2700+27000
Rt=29,700 ohms or 2.97 kohms


Resistors in Parallel:
A little more tricky, you have to calculate the reciprocal number of the resistor value:
1/Rt=1/R1 + 1/R2 and so on...
Again, if we use the above resistor values, we would have:
1/Rt= (1/2700) + (1/27000)
1/Rt= 0.00037037 + 0.000037037
1/Rt=0.000407407
To find out your total resistor value, enter 1 divided by the total decimal number into your calculator.
Rt= (1 / 0.000407407)
Rt=2,454.547909 ohms rounded off to 2,455 ohms.

I know this is a bit off of the mechanics side of things, but it might help someone to figure out what resistors they need to bypass the passlock security system.

lol didn't realize this was that simple, I know pass lock 1 was like this on the fourth gen camaros and older vettes, I got mine started with a screw driver and a variable pot resister, they had a chip in the key, and I used a chart I got online there where 15 possible combos, I had it started on the second one, about 15 minutes and it was hot wired!