How To: Ball Joint Flip

[08Canyon]

Pretty much. the idea is to relive the pressure from the ball joint.

[eagleknight97]

And so far there has been no TRE found that is offset to prevent the potential for damage if you use to large of a spacer with too much crank...correct?

[08Canyon]

I don't remember reading about any available. That doesn't meant that it's true though. I only remember most things, not all things. hehe

[rastok]

Ok after reading throught all those 40 pages, I decided to flip them, here are the number I came with,

First I was at 22" all around fender to center hub. Added a 2" shakle got 24" rear. Then I flipped the bj's and it gave me .5" up front, I was now at 22.5.

Then I tried to crank my keys a bit but I was supprise to see that my driver key was almost turned all the way in.. So I gave it the last 3 quarter on a turn it could take and then I gave the pass side another 6 turn.

My truck now sits 24 " back and 23 and 3 quarter front..

I guess I'll need new bars to be able to crank more or should I buy new lift keys and twist the oem bars even more?

[08Canyon]

Good job on the flip. But unless your bars were totally maxed out, the flip won't lift you at all. It is noted in the thread that BJ flipping is not intended to lift. If you BJ is out of room to flex, then there is a possibility it will have lifted. Simply raising the UCA has zero effect on the ride height.

Torsion bars are cheaper than keys, but either of the two will give you the same result. My driver side was also turned up more than my passenger side (driver side wears more quickly).

[rastok]

now my driver side is cranked all the way,

[Silver 4x4]

When I cranked my stock keys, my driver's side maxed out way before my passenger side too. I got Suspension Max keys and I was able to crank the keys to my desired height.

[08Canyon]

Originally Posted by rastok

now my driver side is cranked all the way,

Not to get off topic, but cranking the bolt doesn't mean you are maxed out. Your bars can be sagged out then turn the bolt up all the way and you won't be maxed.

[Zeuce]

Originally Posted by eagleknight97

And so far there has been no TRE found that is offset to prevent the potential for damage if you use to large of a spacer with too much crank...correct?

you cannot change the angle of the te rod with out changing the angle of the control arms. it will cause so much bump steer your truck will be undriveable.

[rastok]

Originally Posted by 08Canyon

Not to get off topic, but cranking the bolt doesn't mean you are maxed out. Your bars can be sagged out then turn the bolt up all the way and you won't be maxed.

The driver bolt is all the way in. It's screwed completly, i cant turn it more.

[08Canyon]

That doesn't mean it is maxed though. That only means you can't turn the factory key. If you had a brand new Tbar it would be taller than it is now with that bolt turned in all way. If you were truly maxed out your front end would ride like a tank and the differential would need to be lowered similar to SMAXX's Stage II kit and you may not be able to get it to align properly.

All it really means that your bolt is turned up all the way is that your factory Tbar has sagged to the point that stock keys will no longer provide adjustment. I'm only 80% sure that is true, but like I said, if it were maxed you would have other problems.

[rastok]

Y'a, i understand what you mean, i was just saying That my ajustement screw was " maxed out" maybe I should get a lift key so i can at least get it a bit higher so it can sit level.

[Zeuce]

Or new bars if they are cheaper

[Silver 4x4]

My T-bars were not sagging. When I cranked the bars, my truck was new, 2010, and the driver's side bolt was maxed out. I bought new Suspension Maxx keys and problem was solved.

[Nate11Rado]

so i just retained more information in the 41 pages of this thread than i have during my four and a half years of college, and i gotta say im exhausted. no but really you guys are awesome. i went from knowing nothing about the works of my truck to understanding that this should be a piece of cake. i have 4 new shocks, 2 inch shackles, and some torsion keys waiting for me to install and thanks to you guys i should be able to get it done by myself.
the only questions i have is should i flip the BJ before or after i crank the torsion bars? and should i install the shackles and rear shocks before fudging around with the front components?

thanks for the great info guys.

[kinglumber]

That's what we're all here for.

Now I am in no ways the most experienced guy here, but my assumption would be to do the ball joint flip before cranking up your t-bars as you might get to the point where having them flipped will be beneficial because of the amount that you have cranked the bars. I hope the wording wasn't confusing. And I would start at the rear and work forward so that when you crank the t-bars you can get it to the exact height you want as opposed to cranking it up and then lifting the rear and realizing the truck is leaning too much one way or the other and having to do more fine tuning than needed.

[xkmacx86]

Guys fyi the newer trucks 09+ sit higher stock. Max allowance for crank is 24 inches hub to fender. Any higher youll blow through cv boots, tie rods, and the upper bj.

Imo flip the ubj. Lift the rear then add keys and crank to level. Easily done by ones self in a day.

[Nate11Rado]

Originally Posted by xkmacx86

Imo flip the ubj. Lift the rear then add keys and crank to level. Easily done by ones self in a day.

so your saying put the truck on stands and have all four wheels off at once, flip the ubj in the front, then work on the rear lift and shocks, then come back to the front shocks and crank?

[rastok]

Originally Posted by xkmacx86

Guys fyi the newer trucks 09+ sit higher stock. Max allowance for crank is 24 inches hub to fender. Any higher youll blow through cv boots, tie rods, and the upper bj.

Imo flip the ubj. Lift the rear then add keys and crank to level. Easily done by ones self in a day.

That is very good to know!

Can I exept to raise front more than 24 hub fender by installing the smaxx key kit with all the hardware ... Dif spacer, shock spacer ....??

[xkmacx86]

Originally Posted by Nate11Rado

so your saying put the truck on stands and have all four wheels off at once, flip the ubj in the front, then work on the rear lift and shocks, then come back to the front shocks and crank?

Or do the rear completely then do the front to match.

Originally Posted by rastok

That is very good to know!

Can I exept to raise front more than 24 hub fender by installing the smaxx key kit with all the hardware ... Dif spacer, shock spacer ....??

No dont go past 24". Theoretically thats a 3" crank. Being 2wd I ran 4in crank for a year and blew out a hub at 70mph. Just too much stress on the ifs. Pluss a rough ride and no ammount of diff drop will allow flex and maintain cv boots at 4". You can always go higher with a subframe or body lift but imo never over 3in crank.ever