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How To: Front Hub/Wheel Bearing Replacement

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304K views 300 replies 117 participants last post by  OldTime  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Disclaimer
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A 355nation How To presented by
dents-n-dings

Project Name
Front Hub/Wheel Bearing Replacement

Project Description
Removal and Installation of Hub/Wheel Bearing

Skill Level
Moderate

Project Vehicle
Make: Chevrolet
Model: Colorado
Year: 2004
Engine: 3.5L
Power windows: Yes
Sun Roof: No

Tools Needed (in order of use)
Tire Iron
Wheel Chocks
Floor Jack
Jack Stands
Long Pry Bar or Axe Handle
Cheater Bar
35mm Deep Well
17mm Socket
3" Extension
Pliers
Screwdriver
21mm Socket
15mm Socket (3/8")
3/8" Swivel
Piece of Cloth
Block of Wood
Rubber Mallet
Grease


Project Time
3-4 Hours

Project Cost
~$200 Hub Assembly (GM # 25832144)
~$40 ABS Speed Sensor (GM # 15176997/Left; GM # 15176998/Right)


Symptoms
Rotational vibration/wobbling felt through the gas pedal, excessive shimmy/play in the tire when jacked up.

Procedure
Loosen lug nuts and chock rear tires.

Jack up the front end and place firmly on jack stands. Remove the wheel & tire.

Place a pry bar or equivalent between 2 lug bolts to hold the hub from spinning. Loosen the hub nut with a 35mm deep well socket and cheater bar. If the nut is too tight, have someone hold down the brakes to loosen the nut.

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Break loose the (6) 17mm bolts that hold the brake disc to the hub. Leave these bolts in place until later.

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Using pliers & screwdriver, disconnect the ABS harness at the top of the wheel well, and remove the cable from the clips all the way down to the hub.

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Remove the (2) 21mm bolts that hold the brake caliper to the spindle. Slide the brake caliper off of the brake disc and tie it off with zip ties/wire to the frame out of the way. Make sure the brake caliper is not hanging from the brake line.

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Remove the (4) 15mm bolts that hold the hub to the spindle. The bolt above the lower ball joint will require a swivel & extension.

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Remove the hub nut & washer, and pull the hub out of the spindle using a forceful, wiggling motion.

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Place the hub on a soft surface to avoid damaging the brake disc. Remove the (6) 17mm bolts that hold the brake disc to the hub. Separate the brake disc from the hub.

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Place the new hub on a hard, flat surface with the lug bolts facing down. Note the ABS speed sensor position on the old hub, and press the new ABS speed sensor (left/right specific) down on the new hub in the same position. Using a piece of cloth and block of wood, gently tap the ABS speed sensor down on the new hub with a rubber mallet until it sits flush and even with the flange. Take your time and check the position frequently.

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Place the hub on a soft surface, feed the ABS speed sensor cable through the brake disc, and join the brake disc to the hub. Make sure all mating surfaces are clean and flush. The thick side of the brake disc & the “min. safe thickness” text should be facing out toward the lug bolts. Install the (6) 17mm bolts and tighten them to 15lbs (snug), using an alternating/opposite torque pattern. These bolts will be tightened to torque specs later, when the hub is attached to the spindle.

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Clean and lubricate the hole where the hub joins the spindle with a small amount of grease. Insert the end of the ABS speed sensor cable through the brake disc shield and spindle.
With the ABS speed sensor cable facing up, slide the hub onto the axle and into the spindle while carefully feeding the ABS speed sensor cable through. Use a rubber mallet and bad language to persuade the hub into the spindle until it sits flush. Make sure the brake disc shield is positioned correctly, then install the (4) 15mm bolts and tighten them to 15lbs of torque. These will be tightened to torque specs later.

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Using a pry bar to keep the hub from spinning, tighten the (6) 17mm bolts that hold the brake disc to the hub to 88lbs of torque.

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With the pry bar still in place, install the washer & hub nut and tighten just enough as to not cause damage to the lug bolts from the pry bar. The nut will be tightened to torque specs later, after the brakes are installed.

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Tighten the (4) 15mm bolts that hold the hub to the spindle to 92lbs of torque.

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Clean and wipe down the brake disc with brake cleaner and a soft cloth. Slide the caliper on the brake disc and install the (2) 21mm bolts that mount the caliper to the spindle. Tighten to 129lbs of torque.

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Reconnect the ABS speed sensor wire to the clips, and plug the end into the harness. Reattach the harness to the wheel well.

Start the truck and have an assistant apply the brakes. Tighten the hub nut to 191lbs of torque.

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Take time to double check torque on all bolts.

Install the wheel & tire and tighten the lug nuts in an alternating/opposite torque pattern until snug.

Lower the truck firmly on the ground and tighten lug nuts to 103lbs of torque.



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Reactions: Admin
#14 ·
Killer write up Double D!!!!!!!!!!

A much needed addition to the How To Threads section!
 
#20 ·
well found out today that my right front hub assembly needs replaced. the bearings are starting to go out. hopefully my dad can spot me the money to get a new one before i leave to Kyrgyzstan. id rather do it my self than pay a mechanic to install it. plus i have alot of driving i need to do before i leave (out processing) ugh. since mine is 2wd with torsion bars, anyone want me to make a how to so people can tell the difference between a 4wd and 2wd?
 
#23 ·
You can remove the whole assembly, but if you're replacing the Hub then break those 17mm that hold the Rotor before removal while you have leverage.

Man, those clips are a PITA....:lol:

Insert the flathead on the mating side of the clip to push up the little tab.

And curse.......ALOT.