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Old 04-06-2011, 10:10 AM   #1
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How To: Remove Hub & Rotor for 2wd Z85 brake change

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A 355nation How To presented by
DustinJ88

Project Name
How To Remove Hub & Rotor on a 2wd Z85

Project Description
Hub & Rotor Removal from 2wd Z85

Skill Level
Moderate

Project Vehicle
Make: Chevrolet
Model: Colorado
Year: 2006
Engine: 3.5L
Power windows: Yes
Sun Roof: No

Tools Needed
Air Gun/Tire Iron
Wheel Chocks
Jack Stands
Floor Jack
Breaker Bar
Pry Bar/Axe Handle
Pliers
Screwdriver
Ratchet
21mm, 17mm, 15mm, 13mm, and 7mm sockets
Extension or deep-well 17mm socket
Torque Wrench
Zip Ties
C-Clamp


Project Time
1 hour or less

Project Cost
Cost of New Rotors and Brake Pads

Procedure
First off, thanks to Shane (dents-n-dings) as he posted the original for this. I used his How To for the 4wd and am now adapting this for the 2wd guys just for additional help

Depress Parking Brake, chock wheels, loosen lug nuts if having to use tire iron instead of air gun, lift truck and place on jack stands. Remove wheels & tires

ABS Sensor
Locate abs sensor harness and unplug. Remove all clips retaining ABS Sensor Cable. Use 7mm sockets to remove ABS bracket from spindle



Move this sensor cable out of the way and be sure not to damage it.

Remove Caliper
Use 13mm socket to remove lower bolt that holds caliper to its bracket. Loosen top one, pivot the caliper upwards, and remove old brake pads and retaining clips. Prepare a zip tie to hold caliper out of the way.


While you have the caliper swiveled upwards, go ahead and break loose the (2) 21mm bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the spindle.


Once these are loose, lower caliper, and screw the 13mm bolt back into caliper just to hold it in its place. Remove the (2) 21mm bolts we just loosened, while supporting the caliper assembly, and finally zip tie out of the way.


Hub Removal
This is where the 2wd guys differ as we do not have to mess with a hub nut in the center of the hub. Loosen, do not remove, the (6) 17mm bolts on the face of the hub using a breaker bar and extension if needed. Use a pry bar to keep the hub from spinning as pictured.


Once these (6) are loose, we need to remove the (4) 15mm bolts on the back side of the hub. Turn the hub side to side as needed to access these better. A swivel may be needed to remove lower bolt positioned by the lower ball joint. I was able to clear mine just using a shallow well. Just do not strip these.


Once these are removed, your hub will be free from the spindle. I was able to just wiggle mine out of the spindle. While pulling hub from spindle, be sure to not catch your ABS sensor on anything, and guide it out through the spindle. Do not place hub on ground, on top of this sensor; you will damage it.


I find it easier to now cradle the hub in my lap and finish removing the (6) 17mm bolts from the face of the hub. Once this is finished, invert the assembly and place, lug side down, on the ground. Twist the rotor and remove from the hub.


Install new rotor, cradle again in lap to lightly tighten the (6) bolts on the face of the hub, feed ABS sensor back through the spindle, align dust shield, and start reinstalling. To help align the hub with the spindle, install top bolt on the back side of the hub first, then work to other (3).


Tighten these (4) 15mm bolts to 92fps of torque. Move to face of hub and tighten down the (6) 17mm bolts to 88fps in a star pattern. Use pry bar method previously used to loosen these. Now, reinstall your ABS sensor by plugging in harness, fastening all clips, bending back the one metal clip (reference pictures above if needed), and refastening the bracket to the spindle with 7mm bolt. Make sure ABS sensor cable has enough slack, above upper ball joint, to pivot freely.


Reinstall caliper bracket, tightening down the (2) 21mm bolts to 129fps. Remove lower 13mm bolt, enabling you to swivel caliper upwards again. Install new clips and brake pads on the bracket, and carefully depress caliper pistons using a c-clamp and a used brake pad. Lower caliper and reinstall the lower 13mm bolt.


Clean your rotor surface, front and back, using brake cleaner and a soft shop rag. Double check all bolts to assure that they are properly torqued. Reinstall wheel and tire, do the same procedure for the other side, then place back on the ground and tighten lug nuts to 103fps using a star pattern.


Thanks again to dents-n-dings for originating this on the 4wd.

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Old 04-06-2011, 01:51 PM   #2
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Re: How To: Remove Hub & Rotor for 2wd Z85 brake change

Nice How To, very cleat to understand.
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Old 04-06-2011, 08:07 PM   #3
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Re: How To: Remove Hub & Rotor for 2wd Z85 brake change

Nice job man. Thanks
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Old 04-11-2011, 01:08 AM   #4
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Re: How To: Remove Hub & Rotor for 2wd Z85 brake change

jeeze didn't realize the whole hub had to come off to get the rotor, off sort of a dumb design really
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Old 04-11-2011, 01:30 AM   #5
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Re: How To: Remove Hub & Rotor for 2wd Z85 brake change

Have to say, one of the BEST how to's I have ever read. Plenty of pics...plenty of detail, plenty of time taken to do it right! Great job brother! Now ...do some more!
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Old 04-11-2011, 01:31 AM   #6
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Re: How To: Remove Hub & Rotor for 2wd Z85 brake change

very nicely done.
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Old 04-11-2011, 01:34 AM   #7
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Re: How To: Remove Hub & Rotor for 2wd Z85 brake change

very good job making it for the Z85 guys
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Old 04-11-2011, 01:57 AM   #8
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Re: How To: Remove Hub & Rotor for 2wd Z85 brake change

thanks guys
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Old 04-17-2011, 05:02 PM   #9
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Re: How To: Remove Hub & Rotor for 2wd Z85 brake change

The captured rotor is actually a good idea to prevent pad taper wear over the life of the pad. Since the rotor doesn't have a "hat" section to it, it doesn't deflect (as temperature increases) toward the outside of the vehicle. This prevents uneven wear and better thermal distribution during high temperature braking events.

It also is not impacted by the wheel and hub surface. If the hub or wheel is not flat, or if the lug nuts are torqued unevenly it will created a larger runout once mounted. This design prevents this. It's partly why we do not have brake vibration like many other vehicles. Most are lucky to survive 20,000 miles without some sort of vibration. The only reason mine needed changed was because the fins and outer diameter were rusting so bad that it was wearing my pads in a concave shape.

Also remember to put the dust shield back on. It provides some thickness that positions the hub. Without it, the brake caliper bracket will rub the rotor.

Last edited by roadslug; 04-17-2011 at 05:05 PM.
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Old 04-17-2011, 05:41 PM   #10
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Re: How To: Remove Hub & Rotor for 2wd Z85 brake change

This is also 100% the same for ZQ8 guys also. I need to do this soon. My rotors are showing some surface cracking. At over 110k miles on the factory pads/rotors, I ain't mad at it!

Excellent Write Up!
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Old 04-17-2011, 07:06 PM   #11
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Re: How To: Remove Hub & Rotor for 2wd Z85 brake change

mmm well nice explanation about them being lees prone to wrapping!, I was racing a mustang yesterday, and a stop sign came up rather quickly!!! braked as hard as I could down from 100 miles an hour!! They were smokin!! Seems like they didn't warp!
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Old 04-18-2011, 09:45 AM   #12
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Re: How To: Remove Hub & Rotor for 2wd Z85 brake change

i had to use a sledge hammer to tap mine off, my assembly just wouldn't budge. WD-40 and a sledge worked great. seeing as i was replacing my rotors, and everything.
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Old 05-03-2011, 05:33 PM   #13
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Re: How To: Remove Hub & Rotor for 2wd Z85 brake change

Anyone have any ideas how to get my hub assembly off? I tried wiggling it tapping it with a rubber mallet then a claw hammer then a 5pm sledge then a 25 lb sledge and a shit ton of wd40. Thing isn't moving
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Old 05-03-2011, 05:54 PM   #14
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Re: How To: Remove Hub & Rotor for 2wd Z85 brake change

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Anyone have any ideas how to get my hub assembly off? I tried wiggling it tapping it with a rubber mallet then a claw hammer then a 5pm sledge then a 25 lb sledge and a shit ton of wd40. Thing isn't moving
Two words;

Oxy acetylene

lol try a propane torch, but you might need the big boy toy, oxy acetylene torch
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Old 05-04-2011, 03:18 PM   #15
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Re: How To: Remove Hub & Rotor for 2wd Z85 brake change

I'm going to try the torch tonight I hope it works because the stealerships quoted me at $179-265 to do it! Any specific places you think would be good place to heat or place to avoid. Thanks
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Old 05-04-2011, 03:30 PM   #16
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Re: How To: Remove Hub & Rotor for 2wd Z85 brake change

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I'm going to try the torch tonight I hope it works because the stealerships quoted me at $179-265 to do it! Any specific places you think would be good place to heat or place to avoid. Thanks
you always want to heat the smallest amount of steel, and you would want to heat the back side of the knuckle and keep the heat away from the hub, and ab sensor/sensor wire.

Heating the knuckle should cause it to expand and the bearing to stay more or less the same size.. hopefuly but no matter how hard you try you always get some transfer of heat to the part you don't want to heat! poor some water on the bearing and hub to keep it cool, and heat cool, heat cool, and pause to spray some wd-40 along the seem.

Good luck!
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Old 05-04-2011, 04:29 PM   #17
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Re: How To: Remove Hub & Rotor for 2wd Z85 brake change

Tried heating it still didn't work so I just beat the bloody he'll out of it with bfh now I need a new rotor
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Old 05-04-2011, 08:32 PM   #18
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Re: How To: Remove Hub & Rotor for 2wd Z85 brake change

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Tried heating it still didn't work so I just beat the bloody he'll out of it with bfh now I need a new rotor
lol at least you got it apart!
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Old 05-06-2011, 12:33 AM   #19
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Re: How To: Remove Hub & Rotor for 2wd Z85 brake change

now i feel lke i can easily put a lift spindle on.....
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Old 05-06-2011, 06:21 AM   #20
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Re: How To: Remove Hub & Rotor for 2wd Z85 brake change

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lol at least you got it apart!
Yep! Thanks for your help. Kinda sucks cause the rotor had like 6k on it but oh well going in the scrap pile
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