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Discussion Starter #1
Hey ya'll, been browsing this forum for a couple months as I've been diagnosing and working on my wife's truck, which has 207xxx miles on it. Wife bought it from her uncle who lives in Nebraska about 4 years ago, was before we got together. Apparently he maintained it well but I still haven't been able to get service records from him. Currently live in N. CA.

Ok, now onto the problem.

The truck was running rough intermittently a couple weeks back, finally threw a code, P0300, then finally threw a P0301. I swapped the 1 and 2 cylinder coil packs and she drove it around for a couple days. Then it threw a P0302 code. So I replaced the defective coil pack the other night. She was purring like a kitten after the fix and I was happy as a clam, because then my wife would stop complaining about her truck.

The next day, I get a call just after I get to work that her truck won't stay runnning. She takes the spare truck ('92 F150).

Now I'm sitting here in her truck trying to figure out what the hell is going on. It won't stay running so I can't get any codes. And it wasn't throwing any other codes than the ones previously mentioned.

FYI - I have a bluetooth obd2 reader as well.

Any help is appreciated!

I have also read several threads on here with similar problems but haven't found any talking about my issue after replacing a coil pack.
 

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I'm having the same issue on a 06 2.8L. Some days it starts fine and runs no problem, driving it, turning it on and off throughout the day, no prob, all good. Other days it starts then dies right away (1 to 2 seconds running) then keeps doing it until I let it sit hours or overnight. No check engine light. Then starts the next day and stays on like nothing ever happened. I've cleaned the throttle body, did the passlock white/blue wire snip fix, put a new fuel pump in. Anything else I should try?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I fixed it on my wife's truck. I reconnected the passlock and started it. Then disconnected it again. I just held the wires together while I started it. Runs fine now. I think it needed it for the first start for some reason.
 

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Might try looking at the Start / Run relay, swap it out and see if that helps.
 

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Clean up the G105 ground point next to the battery, which is a collection of black wires bolted to the edge of the inner fender. This ground point is where the start/run relay grounds to, and if its a bad connection, can drop the start/run relay. Also consider if the ignition switch might be dirty in the run position, which would also drop the start/run relay. I fixed my passlock problem by dismantling and cleaning the ignition switch - it was very dirty and cleaned up well with contact cleaner. A PO probably sprayed stuff into the ignition switch a few times since I also had to clean the tumblers in the ignition lock cylinder as well. The switch nor the cylinder is not an easy to re-assemble, so if your not comfortable with rebuilding small things that were never meant to be rebuilt, you can buy an ignition switch assembly on Amazon ($50), and just use the electrical switch part. You probably have to do a relearn on the passlock if you do this.
 

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If the fix is to constantly touch those wires together, a toggle switch mounted somewhere out of sight might be a cool trick. If you're really wanting to make the best of a bad situation, use one of those cool toggle switches with a flip down cover over it like the ones they use in the Fast and Furious movies for their NOS system! You know, the combination of a toggle switch and a push button beside it! Who knows, maybe that will make it run faster too!
Good luck guys!
 
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