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Discussion Starter #1
Hello i have recently purchesed a 05 canyon 3.5 l for 500 dollers. It is registering 0 compression on cylinder 3, did leak down test resulted on a exaust valve issue. I pulled the cylinder head off to find this on cylinder 3 View attachment 340287
I also found what i think is carbon build up on the face of the valves View attachment 340288
My plan is to clean the valves and replace the broken one... i know im not suppos to do this butt im cheep can i use the old head gasket and bolts can i use the old exauhst gasket, the gasketa are 3 thin layers of riveted steel. Also after i disconected the timing chain i didnt move the fly wheel. Can i get away with not taking off the face plate so i can see the bottom gear?
I origonly bought the vehicle for parts but maby i can bring it back to life any advise is welcome thank you.
 

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You can't re-use a head gasket. You can't possibly install the head and put the timing chain back on without being able to see the bottom gear and lining up the marks. At best, you'll be off by a tooth or two if try to "ballpark" TDC. Not moving the crankshaft at all is great, but how to you plan to work on the valves without moving the camshafts at all? I would not even consider for a minute just replacing the one broken valve and leaving the rest alone. It looks to me like the valves aren't seating properly, probably due to worn valve guides and seals. I've re-used head bolts dozens of times when rebuilding a motor, but for some reason that seems to be a bad thing on newer motors. I always worked on older cast iron stuff, so maybe todays motors are different. I've re-used exhaust gaskets before, but it's not expensive to replace it.
The smart thing to do would be to take the head to a machine shop and let them do a valve job for you. While the machine shop has the head, you can take off the timing chain cover and see if the chain tensioners and chains need to be replaced and you can clean up other things while it's apart. If you re-use gaskets and attempt to put it back together without being able to line up the timing marks correctly on the crank and cam shafts, you'll never get it running and you will have wasted a bunch of time.
So, advertise the parts you want to get rid of here and lots of folks will buy parts and you'll make a few bucks, or take the time to do the work right (if the truck is worth the effort and expense) and you'll have a dependable ride that you can either enjoy yourself or sell for a great profit. I'm sure you don't want to half-ass the project and dump a barely running piece of garbage to someone, right?
One more thing. Your initial post here is supposed to be a brief introduction. We like to be "courted" a little here before we start giving up our expert opinions and advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Im not very corgal i useually shove it right in. Thank for the advice im working on pulling the face plate off so i can time it correctly. I found a head gasket for around 70 bucks. Iv got a hard time paying people to do stuff for me. Ill attempt to reseat the valves my self by hand and ignore the lifters. The truck has 300000km the good cylanders are registering 190 psi. Im not planing on reselling it i am going too keep it as a beater truck.. thank you for the advice im gonna follow 75% of it. I could only emagine the cost a machine shop will cost prolly 800
 

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Great. BTW, I'm also the guy that suggested you delete the other thread. I don't need my ego stroked, and no, you do not impress me.
Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You can't re-use a head gasket. You can't possibly install the head and put the timing chain back on without being able to see the bottom gear and lining up the marks. At best, you'll be off by a tooth or two if try to "ballpark" TDC. Not moving the crankshaft at all is great, but how to you plan to work on the valves without moving the camshafts at all? I would not even consider for a minute just replacing the one broken valve and leaving the rest alone. It looks to me like the valves aren't seating properly, probably due to worn valve guides and seals. I've re-used head bolts dozens of times when rebuilding a motor, but for some reason that seems to be a bad thing on newer motors. I always worked on older cast iron stuff, so maybe todays motors are different. I've re-used exhaust gaskets before, but it's not expensive to replace it.
The smart thing to do would be to take the head to a machine shop and let them do a valve job for you. While the machine shop has the head, you can take off the timing chain cover and see if the chain tensioners and chains need to be replaced and you can clean up other things while it's apart. If you re-use gaskets and attempt to put it back together without being able to line up the timing marks correctly on the crank and cam shafts, you'll never get it running and you will have wasted a bunch of time.
So, advertise the parts you want to get rid of here and lots of folks will buy parts and you'll make a few bucks, or take the time to do the work right (if the truck is worth the effort and expense) and you'll have a dependable ride that you can either enjoy yourself or sell for a great profit. I'm sure you don't want to half-ass the project and dump a barely running piece of garbage to someone, right?
One more thing. Your initial post here is supposed to be a brief introduction. We like to be "courted" a little here before we start giving up our expert opinions and advice.
You can't re-use a head gasket. You can't possibly install the head and put the timing chain back on without being able to see the bottom gear and lining up the marks. At best, you'll be off by a tooth or two if try to "ballpark" TDC. Not moving the crankshaft at all is great, but how to you plan to work on the valves without moving the camshafts at all? I would not even consider for a minute just replacing the one broken valve and leaving the rest alone. It looks to me like the valves aren't seating properly, probably due to worn valve guides and seals. I've re-used head bolts dozens of times when rebuilding a motor, but for some reason that seems to be a bad thing on newer motors. I always worked on older cast iron stuff, so maybe todays motors are different. I've re-used exhaust gaskets before, but it's not expensive to replace it.
The smart thing to do would be to take the head to a machine shop and let them do a valve job for you. While the machine shop has the head, you can take off the timing chain cover and see if the chain tensioners and chains need to be replaced and you can clean up other things while it's apart. If you re-use gaskets and attempt to put it back together without being able to line up the timing marks correctly on the crank and cam shafts, you'll never get it running and you will have wasted a bunch of time.
So, advertise the parts you want to get rid of here and lots of folks will buy parts and you'll make a few bucks, or take the time to do the work right (if the truck is worth the effort and expense) and you'll have a dependable ride that you can either enjoy yourself or sell for a great profit. I'm sure you don't want to half-ass the project and dump a barely running piece of garbage to someone, right?
One more thing. Your initial post here is supposed to be a brief introduction. We like to be "courted" a little here before we start giving up our expert opinions and advice.
Great. BTW, I'm also the guy that suggested you delete the other thread. I don't need my ego stroked, and no, you do not impress me.
Great. BTW, I'm also the guy that suggested you delete the other thread. I don't need my ego stroked, and no, you do not impress me.
Good luck.
Like i said i dont know how too or i would have deleted it. I have spent 1 h looking into it. I looked on the help page and there are people there askingbthe same question with no answer.. maby insted of insulting me you can tell me how? And i know your the same guy thank you for your advice iv taken it to heart and im trying... what more do you want what more can i do?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
God dam it o
Great. BTW, I'm also the guy that suggested you delete the other thread. I don't need my ego stroked, and no, you do not impress me.
Good luck.
[/QUOTE
God dam it old man im sorry i lashed out .. i really do appreiate the fact that you answered me. Iv been having a rough time as of late and for sum reason i bought this vehical as a challenge to my self . Be rest assured that im not gonna dump this vehicle on anyone and try to sell it . I dont really understand my self why i want your approval butt i do. So plz except my apology.
 

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I re-did my head without having to mess w/ the timing. There's a tool that wedges into the cam chain and one for the fly wheel. I've found out to always use new head bolts, AND ( this from having to redo mine) run a chaser into the block. TDC is easy to find and the flat part of the cams have to point straight up when at TDC. At 300k, I'd do the whole timing thing. There's a utube video where 2 guys cuss this 5 banger through the whole process. Personally I enjoyed it..:)
 

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Sorry you're having trouble with the sight. I know how you used to do it, but I haven't tried since the site went through a major overhaul. I would have to create a new thread and then try to delete it, and if it's no longer possible, I'll take your word for it and not go to the trouble of trying.
Good luck and sorry to give you a hard time.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I re-did my head without having to mess w/ the timing. There's a tool that wedges into the cam chain and one for the fly wheel. I've found out to always use new head bolts, AND ( this from having to redo mine) run a chaser into the block. TDC is easy to find and the flat part of the cams have to point straight up when at TDC. At 300k, I'd do the whole timing thing. There's a utube video where 2 guys cuss this 5 banger through the whole process. Personally I enjoyed it..:)
I think i watched that vidio too bg i
Sorry you're having trouble with the sight. I know how you used to do it, but I haven't tried since the site went through a major overhaul. I would have to create a new thread and then try to delete it, and if it's no longer possible, I'll take your word for it and not go to the trouble of trying.
Good luck and sorry to give you a hard time.
Thank you and im taking your advice im currently dropping the oil pan iv pulled the the crank shaft wheel pully water pump pully. I called a machine shop for the valves and i really cannot afford quote 800 doller atm. I mean i probably should wait tell i can. Im just wondering tho the haynes manual i have dosnt say i have too remove the rack and pinion.. i disconnected it tho and can freely move it around is that good enough to take the oil pan off? And the manual dos not speify where the bolt is that is holding the face plate.. it also dosnt specify where the jack srew wholes are to drop the oil pan?
Sorry you're having trouble with the sight. I know how you used to do it, but I haven't tried since the site went through a major overhaul. I would have to create a new thread and then try to delete it, and if it's no longer possible, I'll take your word for it and not go to the trouble of trying.
Good luck and sorry to give you a hard time.
Thank you and im taking your advice im currently dropping the oil pan iv pulled the the crank shaft wheel pully water pump pully. I called a machine shop for the valves and i really cannot afford quote 800 doller atm. I mean i probably should wait tell i can. Im just wondering tho the haynes manual i have dosnt say i have too remove the rack and pinion.. i disconnected it tho and can freely move it around is that good enough to take the oil pan off? And the manual dos not speify where the bolt is that is holding the face plate.. it also dosnt specify where the jack srew wholes are to drop the oil pan?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I re-did my head without having to mess w/ the timing. There's a tool that wedges into the cam chain and one for the fly wheel. I've found out to always use new head bolts, AND ( this from having to redo mine) run a chaser into the block. TDC is easy to find and the flat part of the cams have to point straight up when at TDC. At 300k, I'd do the whole timing thing. There's a utube video where 2 guys cuss this 5 banger through the whole process. Personally I enjoyed it..:)
Lol yes i whatched that vidio also dg truck guys. Tho the timing chain i have all ready fucked up iv let it drop after i took cam gears apart... and yes i heard gm has a special to to hold the timing in place tho i learned that after the fact.. i feel stupid if i would of done a bit more investigating would have save me a bit more time... butt thats ok live and learn, i supos next time wont bee the fool. Thanks man
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ooops made more work for my self...
340290

This is clearly aluminum and its clean i could get this welded. idk about ac, tbo will this be an issue can a exposed line to atmospher it can wreck a component in the ac system?
 

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You seem to be pretty mechanically inclined, and you certainly don't hesitate to "jump right in" and get your hands dirty - If you watch a few videos on it, I bet you can re-work the head yourself. I replaced seals and guides and did some grinding work on a pair of small block Chevy heads. Turned out great! Parts are cheap. Nothing incredibly technical involved if you just use the valves that are in the best shape to do the grinding. Since you said you're fixing it up as a beater, you're not looking for "perfect", you're going for "better", right? I think the best advice I can give right now is "SLOW DOWN!" As far as the A/C goes, for now just put some duct tape over it to help keep moisture out and leave it alone until it's time to put it back together again. Watch some videos on taking the motor apart. If there's anything like a U-Pull lot near you, that's a great place to get some parts cheap. If I were you, I would consider buying a head and then you have twice as many parts to build a head! You might find one that's in much better shape than yours. I've got a couple of U-Pull lots in my town and they are a great source for cheap parts. Plus, I get to learn how to take things apart by pulling my own parts and if I break something, it's usually on the lot and not on my truck. I always keep all the bolts and clips and stuff like that when I pull parts there and I usually have more nuts and bolts than I need instead of ending up with missing bolts.
Slow down and have fun.
 

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I have verified my 'foolishness' by doing my head job myself. I'e gotten really good at pulling the intake. I can also crush the vacuum line from the vent valve with the intake when putting it back on. I can break off a MAP sensor by placing my arm on top of the intake to loosen / tighten the bolts. But best of all was the look on my head guys face when I told him I hadn't run a chaser and was still down 50 PSI on cylinder 3. I believe his exact words were, "Idiot"...:)

On my S10, when I replaced the AC compressor, I had a list of crap that had to be replaced in order for warranty. It came with the compressor. It seemed to make sense and appeared to be concerned with moisture entering an open system. Gotta vacuum it down b/4 freon. I got / rented all the tools / parts from Vatozone.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You seem to be pretty mechanically inclined, and you certainly don't hesitate to "jump right in" and get your hands dirty - If you watch a few videos on it, I bet you can re-work the head yourself. I replaced seals and guides and did some grinding work on a pair of small block Chevy heads. Turned out great! Parts are cheap. Nothing incredibly technical involved if you just use the valves that are in the best shape to do the grinding. Since you said you're fixing it up as a beater, you're not looking for "perfect", you're going for "better", right? I think the best advice I can give right now is "SLOW DOWN!" As far as the A/C goes, for now just put some duct tape over it to help keep moisture out and leave it alone until it's time to put it back together again. Watch some videos on taking the motor apart. If there's anything like a U-Pull lot near you, that's a great place to get some parts cheap. If I were you, I would consider buying a head and then you have twice as many parts to build a head! You might find one that's in much better shape than yours. I've got a couple of U-Pull lots in my town and they are a great source for cheap parts. Plus, I get to learn how to take things apart by pulling my own parts and if I break something, it's usually on the lot and not on my truck. I always keep all the bolts and clips and stuff like that when I pull parts there and I usually have more nuts and bolts than I need instead of ending up with missing bolts.
Slow down and have fun.
Thank you for the feed back.. i really needed that positive reinforcement. I live in Ontario near Toronto for referance iv never heard of u pull ill look it up. Yes i would love to replace the whole head im gonna look into it, im also gonna re work the old head see if i can get sealing properly. Im gonna slow down. All the valve look intact they need to be cleaned ... more tools i need to buy... thx man
 

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It's been a long time since I reworked heads, but I CAREFULLY put my drill motor on the valve stem once I slid it into place and then squeezed the polishing compound around the valve hole and just slowly turned the drill on a low speed and pulled lightly on the drill, and let the valve itself re-grind the valve opening in the head. One at a time, very slowly and carefully, I got them all cleaned up pretty good, then just replaced the guides and seals, and it was good as new. In my area, Advance Auto Parts, Autozone and other places will rent you the tools. Basically you pay a deposit and you get it back when you return the tools. I wouldn't invest in the purchase of a specialty tool that I might not ever use again.
Just my thoughts.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I have verified my 'foolishness' by doing my head job myself. I'e gotten really good at pulling the intake. I can also crush the vacuum line from the vent valve with the intake when putting it back on. I can break off a MAP sensor by placing my arm on top of the intake to loosen / tighten the bolts. But best of all was the look on my head guys face when I told him I hadn't run a chaser and was still down 50 PSI on cylinder 3. I believe his exact words were, "Idiot"...:)

On my S10, when I replaced the AC compressor, I had a list of crap that had to be replaced in order for warranty. It came with the compressor. It seemed to make sense and appeared to be concerned with moisture entering an open system. Gotta vacuum it down b/4 freon. I got / rented all the tools / parts from Vatozone.
Thank you good to know there like minded people out there and im not the only one.
It's been a long time since I reworked heads, but I CAREFULLY put my drill motor on the valve stem once I slid it into place and then squeezed the polishing compound around the valve hole and just slowly turned the drill on a low speed and pulled lightly on the drill, and let the valve itself re-grind the valve opening in the head. One at a time, very slowly and carefully, I got them all cleaned up pretty good, then just replaced the guides and seals, and it was good as new. In my area, Advance Auto Parts, Autozone and other places will rent you the tools. Basically you pay a deposit and you get it back when you return the tools. I wouldn't invest in the purchase of a specialty tool that I might not ever use again.
Just my thoughts.
Sounds good iv rented a valve spring compressor, iv got the valve compound. J/w if you can confirm the jack screw holes for the oil pan, i found the 2 holes by the transmission are there any more?
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Hey old guy . I got the oil pan off now im moven on to the front cover im a bit worried im trying not to break annything elce.
340297

The circled are jack screw ports im assuming the middle arrow is a screw port where a short bolt came out of is that also a jack screw port? Also
340298

I pulled the oil pump on left. The right circle you see a hex head bolt faceing the camera do i pull that also above it facing horizontally there a hex bolt also on the left circle not sure if i pull that. I so far have attempted to pull the face off i have stoped now because i feel quite a bit of restriction whilst winding in the jack screw bolts, is this normal because of the fly wheel shaft seal?
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Nm got it off. Wasnt easy..
Hey old guy . I got the oil pan off now im moven on to the front cover im a bit worried im trying not to break annything elce. View attachment 340297
The circled are jack screw ports im assuming the middle arrow is a screw port where a short bolt came out of is that also a jack screw port? Also View attachment 340298
I pulled the oil pump on left. The right circle you see a hex head bolt faceing the camera do i pull that also above it facing horizontally there a hex bolt also on the left circle not sure if i pull that. I so far have attempted to pull the face off i have stoped now because i feel quite a bit of restriction whilst winding in the jack screw bolts, is this normal because of the fly what a pain in the ass that was.. ok im readys to start cleaning and re working they cylander head.. im pritty sure the exhaust cam gear is the problem. From you tube vidios i have watched
 
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