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Discussion Starter #1
So my 07 Colorado crew cab has been running hot lately. Usually sits right at half way on the temp gauge. When driving around with no load it’s a little above the middle to the 3/4 line. I drained all the coolant out, refilled with new dex cool, new radiator cap (mine was leaking a tad) and still no difference. Was gonna do a new water pump and thermostat next. Any other ideas on why this might be getting so hot? Radiator is clean no debris clogs or anything.
 

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What has the service record of the cooling system been like ? Is this still the original water pump and thermostat ? Is there air in the system after you refilled the coolant ?You may not have debris in the fins but how can you tell if it isn't clogged ?No part lasts forever and you need to examine all of the probabilities before buying new parts in hope of a fix .If this change happened right after you changed coolant it's most likely air in the system . Check that first .
 

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sounds like a good start, verify that both hoses are firm once the truck is at operating temperature. as mentioned, air in the system can cause strange temperature readings. also purchasing a Prestone gauge (not Peak brand) and take a sample from the radiator (when cold) to make sure its 50/50 ratio (-34*). anything over 70% antifreeze is counter productive. i'll add that getting an accurate reading form a scan gauge could help. lots of OBD2 apps available (https://magnetoitsolutions.com/blog/best-obd2-android-ios-apps-for-cars-review#Torque) like Torque Pro, OBD Auto Doctor for fairly cheap. or something like Ultra Gauge for $80, ScanGauge II for $170, etc. if you change water pump, hoses and T-stat, i'd strongly recommend staying with ACDelco, especially the hoses.
 

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So I changed the waterpump today, came with A New fan clutch which I also installed, and put a new thermostat in. Topped off with new 50/50 dex cool and Still runs way too hot. I officially hate working on this truck.

I filled the coolant and stuck a funnel in the radiator and added a little extra up the funnel. Squeeze the upper and lower hoses about a thousand times to get as many bubbles out. Ran the truck with the heat on full hot and and fan on high. Heat is working great chocking me out. Temp gaugeslowly climbed till about 3/4 of gauge. Revving engine and holding at 2k for a min then letting off. The lower hose was cool to touch, not getting hot enough to not be able to hold my hand on it. Upper hose giving me second degree burns trying to squeeze it. I gave up and put the cap on and drove it down the road trying to go up a few hills. No change, thing still runs hot. It’s like a hundred degrees here in western ma, and the only way to keep this pos truck running at just above the half way mark on gauge is with heat on full blast while driving. After the drive lower hose was firmer than before , and warmer but not really “hot”
New thermostat said 187 on it old one Said 188. I put it in correctly the same way the old one came out. I officially hate this truck more than ever
 

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So I let the truck cool for a little while. Went out to check it. Turn it on temp gauge read 1/4. Started it and within 1 minute it was at 1/2, then slowly rose to halfway between 1/2 and 3/4. Both hoses are hard but lower one is cold. Radiator and upper hose so hot you can’t rest a hand on them.
 

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The fact the lower hose is far cooler than the upper hose and top of the radiator indicates the radiator and water pump are working.

You need to be able to read the true temp, relying on the idiot gauge for a True temp reading is counter productive

I have already had to replace the gauge cluster on my truck this past winter for nearly the same exact issue you are having. I freaked out when my gauge started reading max hot after just a few minutes of running in 20 degree weather with a 40 minute drive on logging roads to get off the mtn. After several weeks of swapping out t-stats, water pumps, coolant temp sensors and a radiator, I finally broke down and purchased a Scan Gauge II and discovered it was the gauge itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
After cooling all night I started it to go to work this morning. Within one mile of driving the temp gauge read halfway, upon arriving at work a mere 2.2 miles total of driving temp gauge was just under the 3/4 mark. I plugged in a scanner at this point and coolant temp was reading 217 degrees and rising, and lower hose was cold. Repeat cold. Upper hose was hard and so was lower hose.
 

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The fact the lower hose is far cooler than the upper hose and top of the radiator indicates the radiator and water pump are working
x2 the upper hose will very hot to grab, were as the bottom just normal hot..

After cooling all night I started it to go to work this morning. Within one mile of driving the temp gauge read halfway, upon arriving at work a mere 2.2 miles total of driving temp gauge was just under the 3/4 mark. I plugged in a scanner at this point and coolant temp was reading 217 degrees and rising, and lower hose was cold. Repeat cold. Upper hose was hard and so was lower hose.
i've seen this with my truck, the run time may not be long enough so it won't let the t-stat fully open, hence, no flow to circulate/cool the top hose. the sensor is at the top of the head. also, if the engine is off/not running, the "sitting" temps can go up to 225*, in the heat of the day, mine will sit around 219* when parked. i've read on here running temps to be anywhere from 188*- 220*. functionality wise, everything seems to be working. any chance you have a skid plate up front?
just to recap
Radiator fins clean
hoses are firm
new clutch fan spins
proper 50/50 mix
Temperatures do go up/down when driving or putting the Heater or AC to max
Transmission level good
 

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Discussion Starter #9
No skid plate under radiator, been missing since I bought the truck. Radiator fins clean, can see daylight through it. No debris in between cossor and rad. Shroud is in place and good.
Both hoses get firm
New fan clutch spins
Brand new 50/50
Temp will go down a little with heat on full hot max fan
Trans level right where it should be

I’ve owned this truck since summer of 2017. I got it with 62k on it. It now has 94 k. The temp has never risen above half gauge except when I tow something heavy, and it would only go up one click above half. Last fall I noticed that it would get above that mostly when I tow the air compressor (doosan 185 cfm, maybe 2-2.5k lbs) or my double jet ski trailer. Then winter came and it stayed at half gauge, good heat. This spring I noticed the elevated temps again with no trailer so I drained the coolant and put new 50/50 back in. Saw the same elevated temps but would see them go even higher sometimes. That’s why I did the new water pump, thermostat, and new fan clutch with new 50/50 dex. Now the temps are showing higher then ever on gauge and I’m at a loss of what’s the issue.
 

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We’re all the parts you purchased OEM?

I was under the impression that the 187 degree thermostats were replaced with ones that were closer to 195. I may be incorrect but I thought I saw a thread years ago discussing the change to a higher temperature.

I’d also think about your radiator cap. It could be faulty. I’m just shotgunning ideas because I’m also kinda confused.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
No skid plate under radiator, been missing since I bought the truck. Radiator fins clean, can see daylight through it. No debris in between cossor and rad. Shroud is in place and good.
Both hoses get firm
New fan clutch spins
Brand new 50/50
Temp will go down a little with heat on full hot max fan
Trans level right where it should be
I’ve owned this truck since summer of 2017. I got it with 62k on it. It now has 94 k. The temp has never risen above half gauge except when I tow something heavy, and it would only go up one click above half. Last fall I noticed that it would get above that mostly when I tow the air compressor (doosan 185 cfm, maybe 2-2.5k lbs) or my double jet ski trailer. Then winter came and it stayed at half gauge, good heat. This spring I noticed the elevated temps again with no trailer so I drained the coolant and put new 50/50 back in. Saw the same elevated temps but would see them go even higher sometimes. That’s why I did the new water pump, thermostat, and new fan clutch with new 50/50 dex. Now the temps are showing higher then ever on gauge and I’m at a loss of what’s the issue.
 

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I once worked in an auto parts store and " store brand or off brand parts " failed at an alarming rate based on the number of returns we had . Based on that I never replaced any cooling system part with anything but GM / Delco brands except for radiators . I would certainly not trust the thermostat and cap you purchased if not GM / Delco .One last thought , if that radiator is the original it's 13 years old . While it may have clear fins for air passage if the internal tubes are restricted by rust or debris you will not have proper heat transfer . And there is no way you can see if they are . It may be time for a new radiator , and a V-8 one at that .
 

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I swore I had all the air out and was losing my mind similar to you.

Let it cool down, pop off the radiator cap (put a bucket under the truck, might leak), let it warm up so that you know the thermostat is open, and coolant is flowing through everything. Then rev the shit out of it a few times. Mine bubbled like crazy, I topped it off, did it a few more times, topped it off again, put the cap back on, been fine ever since.
 

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When I replaced my pump I refill the system like this . With the upper hose off I add directly to the block till full , attach the hose and fill radiator till full , then add to the overflow tank to the cold line if necessary . Done , Never any issue with air in system.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well I grabbed my scanner and plugged it in went for a ride. No ac or heat, runs between 207-210. 205 was the coolest I saw it when I floored it on a good straight away. Stop and idle and it’ll get to 221. Dash gauge showing 5/8-3/4. Went home and let it cool for a few. Took the rad cap off and stuck my funnel back in. Jacked up the passenger side and squeezed the upper hose and got out whey seemed like a lot of bubbles. Still no difference in the temps. Had it running for 20 min, flooring it, squeezing upper hose, lower hose, repeat. Still no difference
 

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might agree with the others about still having air in the system. i know mine was a PITA, it took several days of checking/filling/burping for it to settle down. on a side note what skies do you have? Sea-Doo? Yamaha? Honda? Kawasaki? i've had 95SPX, 97GSX, 91SJ, 95SJ, and currently have a 96SJ all modified for more fun :)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well I grabbed my scanner and plugged it in went for a ride. No ac or heat, runs between 207-210. 205 was the coolest I saw it when I floored it on a good straight away. Stop and idle and it’ll get to 221. Dash gauge showing 5/8-3/4. Went home and let it cool for a few. Took the rad cap off and stuck my funnel back in. Jacked up the passenger side and squeezed the upper hose and got out whey seemed like a lot of bubbles. Still no difference in the temps. Had it running for 20 min, flooring it, squeezing upper hose, lower hose, repeat. Still no difference
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I got two Yamaha vxr 650 both 93 both pink and yellow. And I just got a 2003 Kawasaki zxi1100
 

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all sweet rides, that triple must be fun !
 
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