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Discussion Starter #1
hello guys, planning 2 in. lift in the future with new tires 31 nothing big, anyways looking at keys, what is the difference between 2 types below and to remove and install need the torsion bar tool? where to rent or need to buy this tool to use it one time??
Thank you in advance.
 

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Left our trucks, right full size trucks, i didnt use a torsion key tool just unbolted thed the front shocks jacked it up till the tires were off the ground and took the bolt out of the keys
 

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The TB keys on our trucks do not require a removal tool.
 

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Even if you plan to lift the rear of the truck a little bit (<2"), you won't need new keys. The factory keys may allow enough lift. It depends on how much your factory bars have sagged. If you have sagged, you will first crank and bring it to stock height, then go above. So if you are close to stock height now, most all adjustment will result in lifting.

The truck in your avatar appears to be a Z71 (Off-Road) vehicle. If that is true, you already have a 31" tire (basically).

Save your money. Crank up your factory keys until the truck is level (or to whatever you desire). Get your new tires then get your alignment and drive happy.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you so much for all the information provided.
well would like to do it the right way, instead of making something abnormal like that, but after all the info , will see.
Thanks..
 

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Thank you so much for all the information provided.
well would like to do it the right way, instead of making something abnormal like that, but after all the info , will see.
Thanks..
there is no right or wrong. Buying aftermarket keys on our trucks only allows you to thread less of the screw through the crescent nut. The readylift actually don't fit the hex on the torsion bar as nicely and they aren't offset much differently. I have them since they were cheaper than stock and my stock ones were rusted to hell and I wasn't really impressed. What you will want though is the spacers from suspension maxx to drop the differential, or washers and new bolts to do so.
 

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Thank you so much for all the information provided.
well would like to do it the right way, instead of making something abnormal like that, but after all the info , will see.
Thanks..
What do you mean by "do it the right way, and not abnormal"?
 

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cranking stock keys or using lift keys... its the same thing. Both are "abnormal"(if that is what you want to call it). Both have the same negative effects on the front suspension and CV axles. Lift keys are ONLY necessary if you can't get the lift you want from the stock keys
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the input and sorry for the word abnormal, good explanation from GregDAP,
just wanted to know the right direction on this adventure of leveling my truck, well explained from you guys, and forget ABNORMAL,
Thanks..
 

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To simply level the truck, turn up the torsion keys. Same result as a new key, but a new key is unnecessary.

Crank until it's level. Take it for a test drive. Make adjustments as necessary, it will settle a little after your drive it. Give it a day or 2 and double check for necessary adjustments then get a front end alignment.

All you need is a breaker bar and a 1 1/16" socket.

I don't remember how many turns it will take, but doesn't matter anyway. You're going to crank it until you reach desired height. The driver side may take more turning than the passenger side (driver side sags). It will probably take about 4 full turns.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Cool, will wait to do it, till close to get my new tires, for balancing and alignment..
thanks again.
 

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I have a 06 2.8l z85 4x4, and was wanting some lift and was thinking about doing a tb crank, but Ive heard it is really bad for your suspension? Is it the best way to lift my truck if im not trying to spend a fortune? and how does it affect the ride if you tighten it down?
 

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The more you crank the torsion bars the rougher/stiffer the suspension gets.
 

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I did this last night, after swapping out all the shocks earlier in the week. Went with 2 inch shackles and then just cranked to level. Used the SMAXX spacers to drop the front diff. Ride seems as good as before, but that may be the SkyJacker 8000s. Will give it another day of bouncing around, readjusting as needed, and then get it aligned.
 

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Drive it for a few weeks and lower it back to stock height and you will notice the ride quality change. (not seriously suggesting you lower it).


Keep an eye on the side to side levelness for a day or so then get your alignment. It will settle a little.

Shocks aren't going to do much for the ride quality change after torsion bar cranking, it has nothing to do with the causes for ride quality change.
 

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This is the third Collie I've owned. It rides like the others, and as it did before the crank. I didn't expect Caddie smoothness, or even as smooth as the wife's TrailBlazer. Just wanted an inch or two more clearance.

I am concerned, however, of the need for the bump stops on the upper control arms. It's a tight fit in there to begin with. With two inches or less of crank, are these needed?
 

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The ones provided from SuspensionMAXX you mean?

Those are there to keep the UCA from banging into the mating part (can't remember where it is). If you don't hit metal/metal then no need to go back and install them.

You must install them in the same order as in the instructions though - so if you plan to go back to install you'll basically be starting over again. I skipped it initially (forgot), then had to undo some of the work in order to get the stop in place.
 

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I don't hear any banging yet, but I'll keep an eye on it. I didn't swap keys, just cranked the stickers. But I know I'll have to lower the TBs to relieve the load on the UCAs.
 

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Im running 31" on mine and I dont have any problems, even off roading, been thinking doing this for a while though just to see if I could get 33"s on it:th_lurkingrr:
 
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