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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, First off I want to say hello to everyone as i am new to the forums.

I just recently bought a 2008 z71 crew cab Colorado with 59,000 miles on it. I love it so far, but I just want a little more height to it. I don't want anything crazy, just about 2-3 more inches. And I don't want to spend over $500+

So my question is, has anyone used this lift kit before?
2 Suspension Lift Kit - 2004-2012 Chevy / GMC Colorado and Canyon 4x4 [12928] | $244.95 | SD Truck Springs | Leaf Springs, Helper Springs and Suspension Parts

If so, have you liked it? was it worth it? Do i need to do any other mods if i install it? Or would you guys recommend something else? Any info would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Since your truck is a 2008, you can probably get by with just the AAL and cranking your stock keys, as long as you stay with a 32 inch or smaller tire. AAL's by themselves are not bad, right around $100. You should also probably do the Ball Joint flip if you do crank the front end. Just my opinion.
 

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That is pretty much spot on info above.

A recommendation I usually suggest is measure your truck now from fender to center of hub. Then crank up the factory keys and measure the lift you gained. If you have not reached lets say 24", then keys will be good for you. If you can reach 24", then you will not need keys. 24" to 24.5" is about the maximum safe zone. 24.5" is the top end and is not usually recommended. There are extra precautions to take when torsion bar lifting that high. More than the precautions necessary for 24".

Most of the key kits are identical. The thread you created is one more of about 1249 other "is this a good key" thread. No biggie, just know that you aren't the first person to ask this question. As for what you posted, it's as common as a blue sky and there is a ton of information on the forum on this topic.

Should you elect to do this procedure as a test, make sure you count the number of turns on each side (L/R) because it will take different amounts. Your driver side is sagged. By counting the turns, it will allow you to lower the truck back to where it sits today and keep your alignment pretty close. Otherwise, you'll mess up your alignment. If you do not plan to do the lift anytime soon, then don't even test it, until you are ready to place a parts order for the lift components.

This picture is an example how the 24" measurement I'm referring to (my truck).
http://www.355nation.net/forum/lifting/132529-keys-shackles-aal-now-what-lol.html#post3494705

Also, the link above may answer any other question you're thinking of in the interim. It is another active key/shackle thread. They are using shackles, you may use AAL's. Same end result.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I appreciated the info guys.

I understand you are all trying to save me some money and just recommend me cranking the bars, but I think im just going to go with the kit I posted and use the keys that come with it.

Anything that I should know before, during, or after I install the kit? Will I need new shocks, or replace anything else on my truck?

Appreciate it!
 

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maniac mechanic
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The keys offer you nothing and the 3" of lift the kit claims can't be achieved safely unless you do a differential drop which that doesn't include.

If you are going to buy keys get the suspensionmaxx kit that includes differential drop spacers. Or you can crank your stock set-up(this is all the keys do they just make it so the bolt isn't threaded as far down the crescent nut), buy longer differential bolts, and stack washers for pennies compared to the kit.

You don't have to get new shocks but I suggest you buy a set sized for the amount of lift.
 

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I appreciated the info guys.

I understand you are all trying to save me some money and just recommend me cranking the bars, but I think im just going to go with the kit I posted and use the keys that come with it.

Anything that I should know before, during, or after I install the kit? Will I need new shocks, or replace anything else on my truck?

Appreciate it!
The keys you posted is the same exact thing as cranking your torsion bars using factory keys. The ONLY difference is they are reindexed to reach beyond what factory keys are capable of. Each truck is different in this way. Please do not purchase the kit with an expectation that it will 'maintain factory ride'. It will not, and can not maintain a factory ride after torsion bar cranking.
Variables that control amount of lift on factory keys are things like:
driver weight
age of vehicle
miles on vehicle
method in which vehicle is driven ('normal' or aggressively).
All of those things contribute to suspension sagging. And sagging is natural with age anyway.

Of course there are thing you need to be aware of. I've written it out about 100 times and I don't feel like going much into detail.

Key topics are:
rough ride
potential for not being able to get front end alignment
ball joint binding, resulting in possibly cracking upper control arm
lowering a front differential to prevent premature wear on your CV joints.

I am not trying to sound rude. I just don't feel like typing all of the specific details again at this moment. It is definitely outlined in all of the existing threads, several are relatively recent and easy to find.

A suggestion to help us help you is for you to do your research on the things I listed just above. Then come back for clarification on what some of what you read means, if it is confusing. Some of it can be confusing.

You will need new shocks for the rear if you are going up 2". The extension amount is very reduced after the lift and you may not have the extension needed for the suspension to cycle. New shocks for front are not required. However if they are old (60,000+) it may not be a bad idea anyway.
I will second the suggestion for calling SuspensionMaxx for the parts. Also he will give you a discount for being a 355nation member.
 
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