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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Got a 2004 Chevy Colorado LS with 89,000 original miles on it.

Started misfiring a few days ago at idle, and when braking to an idle. But when i give it gas it seems to run fine.

Replaced; Spark Plugs, Coil Packs, Fuel Pump, Both Vent solenoid and other evap part on engine, I just cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor very good.

Cleaning the Throttle Body and MAF sensor made it run better but it did NOT fix the misfiring.

Only EVAP codes have been triggered and now no codes since I cleaned the throttle body, but i just did that only driven it 2 times since then, codes may come back.

I walked into a dealership with the Technical bulliten 07123A printed and in hand, but i didnt realize it was 7 years, or 100,000 miles, whichever occurs first.

So now im screwed? The head on my engine is bad>? Is it just going to get worse? GM will not cover it anymore and now I just bought a defective engine?

I have had this truck for over 1 year and now its misfiring. How long can I drive this thing as is until I potentially cause more serious damage?
It is only lightly misfiring at idle.

Does anybody blame me for Hating GM right now?
Im just a hard working guy who bought a colorado from a dealership 1 year ago for too much cash now im screwed.

Any easy engine swap suggestions for near future consideration?

(EDIT; the manufacture defect I am speaking of is bulliten '07123a' which was defective valve seats on the cylinder head of the 2004-2005 colorado/canyons)
 

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Have you done a compression test to confirm the valves are leaking? On an '04 it is not a matter of if the valves are going to leak just a question of how many miles before they start leaking. The problem is substandard valve guides not the valve seats.
The head will require $350. or so at a machine shop for a valve job & new guides. Add another $400. for gaskets, head bolts, timing set, and maybe a water pump. Note that I have not included anything for the labor to remove & reinstall the head.
These actually are good engines that unfortunately were built with poor valve guides so your engine could last to 300,000 miles if the head is repaired properly.
 

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If a faulty part makes you hate a manufacture. I am pretty sure you should just hate all vehicles! In the grand scheme of things this cylinder head is really the only problem with these trucks (ok add timing chains) and I am sure these is a list of little things. previous owners are the bigger problem.

P.S the LS swap is virtually a bolt in now. and that will fix ALL your engine problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
No i have not done a compression test. I would obv get a compression test done first before making the decision to get a valve job.

It is just ridiculous that GM put a 7 year time frame on this situation, instead of just saying any before 100,000 miles. Because guess what now Im screwed.

Im literally going to drive it until I can afford to buy another vehicle, let this sit around until I can afford to take it to the dealer to get it taken to a machine shop. Or just swap the engine and take apart the old son of a bitch myself, take the cylinder head to the machine shop myself.
 

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Everyone with an '04-07 & some '08's are in the same boat about the bad valve guides. Some failed at less than 20,000 miles and my '04 made it to a little over 150,000. Even the trucks that had the heads replaced under warrantee before '09 have to worry that they will fail again. The '09 & up engines do not appear to have the same problem so they must have started using better valve guides sometime during the '08 production.
When the intake valve guides wear out the oil seals also fail which will lead to increased oil consumption. If you don't run it out of oil you will not really hurt anything driving the truck except the cat's which will not survive excess smoke very long.
Typically the members that didn't remove & replace the head themselves have paid $2,000.-3,000. for the repairs. Shop around to find to find the best value. Maybe talk to a local automotive machine shop and try to get a them to suggest a local shop or two that can R&R the head.
 

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First, you don't know what's causing the problem. You haven't done a compression test yet. Secondly, you say you paid way to much for the truck. That may be so, but it's nobody's fault but yours. It looks like you've spend hundreds of dollars in parts to throw at the problem without a proper diagnosis. That's not anyone's fault but yours either. You weren't aware of the "whichever comes first" on the warranty. They all are like that! If you had come to this site sooner, we may have been able to help you diagnose the problem a little better and save you a lot of money. I have an '04 with 209,000 miles on it. It stumbles a little at idle, but runs and drives fine. I may have a valve problem - I don't know. When I have the time and money to take care of the repair, or if it gets worse, I'll do a compression test and see what the cause is. It has no impact on my daily driving, hauling or working with my truck. Rough idle and poor gas mileage. I own my own handy man business, flip houses and I'm a Real Estate agent. My truck is a tool. Like all my other tools, I'll use it until it stops working or hinders my performance. This forum is for Colorado and Canyon enthusiasts. What did you think the response would be when you came to this site already pissed off about the mess you've gotten yourself into and started you pitiful rant about how you are screwed?
We'll help you if you need help, but we didn't overpay for a truck, dump hundreds of dollars worth of parts into it with no success and then - ignorantly - stroll into the dealership in an attempt to get repairs out of warranty. If you've been screwed, you did it to yourself.
You ask questions and we'll try to answer them. That's how this works. To say the trucks are crap, GM is crap and to imply that only an idiot would buy/drive these trucks is very insulting to those of us that like and enjoy our trucks.
Calm down and we'll try again.
How may we help you?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
To say the trucks are crap, GM is crap and to imply that only an idiot would buy/drive these trucks is very insulting to those of us that like and enjoy our trucks.
How may we help you?
I never implied this sentence above. Old guy your post was riddled with insults, what the heck man? Though I do appreciate the information you provided within, gives me lots of hope. How about cut the insults, why you so triggered? I, on the other hand, have a good reason to be upset, I was sold a defective engine.

Yes I did this to myself. But the dealer never told me of this issue when I bought the truck. So its a two way street there buddy. I work for a family owned manufacturing facility and trust me, if anything we produce was defective, regardless of time, if it was OUR fault, we would fix it no matter what.

"Gold Country Russ" thanks for your post, I did strangely notice that while doing oil changes I get about 4qt out when I always put 5qt in. I always get substantially less out then what I put in, every oil change.

Both of your posts give me hope. Im a paranoid person as is and misfiring while idling does not help that. Ill keep driving it until I can afford to get a compression test and take it to a machine shop and get another vehicle.
 

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Sorry if I offended you. I don't know how much it costs to get a compression test performed, but you can do it yourself pretty quickly and easily. If you replaced your own spark plugs, you have all the tools you need and are capable of doing this yourself. If you have a harbor Freight near you, you can buy the tool for about $30.
Again, looking over my post, it was a bit harsh.
Welcome to the site and I promise to help as much as I can and I'll also tone it down a little. I don't need to kick a man when he's already down. Sorry.
If you're not familiar with the process, you basically remove the relay and fuse for fuel pump and/or ignition so the car won't start or throw sparks at you. Then remove all spark plugs and one at a time screw the hose into the plug holes and crank the motor over a few times and check the reading. It's basically a fancy tire gauge for your cylinders. The readings aren't as important as the differences between them. There are lots of youtube videos out there if that makes you feel more comfortable doing it yourself.
Keep in touch and let us know what you find.
 

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To do the compression test the throttle must be fully open, it is easier to just remove it. The cylinder being tested must be able to fully fill with air for the test to be valid.
The Harbor Freight compression test kit can be hard to use because it is prone to leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks both, I may end up doing it myself, unless I can find someone to do it cheap. Dealer quoted me at around 120$ but you know how dealers are, local mechanic can probably do it for half.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
So I have been driving it daily since the last post, just got done moving into a new house with my family, problem persisted, inconsistent rough idle.

Until yesterday I was on my way home from work, and the rough idle turned into a consistent, fast misfiring feeling, and i gave it gas an it did not respond properly, high rpm's and not a lot of power. Then it stalled out on me.

Stalled, and now it wont turn over. When you turn the key the starter does NOTHING. No noise, no nothing. I had to get it towed to my new house way far out.

Any ideas? I havent looked at it yet, I work full time and am still unpacking.

My hope is its a simple electrical issue, any ideas? Thanks.

EDIT; the dash, fan, lights all work when you turn the key, it just wont crank. Dash and lights dim when trying to crank but nothing happens. Will look into it this weekend
 

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The dimming lights mean low voltage so test the battery, charge battery if necessary, clean and tighten all cable connections, clean both of the ground packs on the inner fenders, and check all the fuses. Now try to start it again!
Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
FOUND THE ISSUE (but need help for resolving), Fuse 23 Ignition (15A) was burned.
Discovered this after cleaning spark plugs, coils, all grounds, battery terminals.

So I replaced the fuse, and the truck started and ran for 3 seconds a bit rough then stalled.
Checked that fuse and IT WAS BURNED UP AGAIN.

Anybody can assist?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Talked to my uncle which is a Master Electrician and he said its the Ignition switch wiring or the ignition switch itself. So I ordered a whole new ACDELCO ignition switch housing.

Time to take apart the steering column/dash.

This would be mind boggling if this was the cause of what felt like a 'misfire'.

EDIT: Going to be suspicious of the starter also as it could be a bad starter.
EDIT: im going to create a new thread now on this issue as its identified as something entirely different than the original purpose of this thread.
 

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Hey, guys dealing with what seems to be the same issue. The truck randomly misfires and then it doesn't. After it warms up it goes away as well. The truck seems to misfire a lot more when my wife drives it lol. Any suggestions?
 

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when it misfires, the normal response is to accelerate to maintain speed. If it starts misfiring, try to hold the throttle in that position to make it keep misfiring long enough to get a code and go from there.
When trying to help folks here, it's sad to see them throw lots of parts at the problem with no results and then they find that it's a battery, ground or some other simple solution to the problem.
Check voltage. Check grounds on both fenders. Take to parts store for a free charging system check/battery check. We all know that if you have a questionable battery, it will fail in cold weather. Retrieve codes and write them down "had a code, but can't remember what it was" is something we see here a lot - very frustrating! Do a compression test. And please, please give some feedback when you figure out what it is and how you fixed it.
 

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Interesting update, I was replacing the thermostat (I have no heat right now) the other night and randomly placed my battery and a charge (battery light came on recently). Hasn't misfired since....only been since Saturday.
 

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In Alaska you should be using a much higher capacity group 65 battery. It will fit and will use stock cables too. The group 65 has been Fords standard truck battery for many years and the group 65 batteries are usually a lot cheaper than the weird size that GM used.
 
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