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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, my father in law had some work done on his Canyon after an accident and for some reason, the filler neck wasn't connected to the body so it's loose and bangs around when he drives (been going on for months and he won't take it back to that garage). It looks to me like all we would need to do is remove the wheel well liner to reach up there to secure it. Is there more to it than that? Also, what kind of hardware is used to attach it? Thanks for the help!

Ben
 

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Just open the gas door, there should be 3 bolts that secure it to the bed side, if they're missing, just replace them.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Any idea of the size of the bolts? Since it's not my truck I don't have it here to check it out and try to test fit different sizes. Thanks for the help.
 

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Not a clue and I traded my truck in about a month ago, so I can't even go check it for you.
 

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Just depending on where they left it loose, he may need 14 instead.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
For how cheap everything is, I'd order it all to make sure I have it. The weird thing though is they don't list #14 on the right for the part number or price.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That would be awesome, thanks. It's pouring in Delaware too. Was just wondering how it can rain for over 12 hours straight.
 

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Okay, no rain this morning. Back to research.
As I have no way of knowing just where the filler tube was disconnected I'll give you both options.
The first applies if the tube was disconnected from the body with it still attached to the housing (#13 in my link). That housing is attached to the body with two machine screws, part number 15966436 (#14 in the link), and one plastic push-pin retainer, part number 11561878 (#16 in the link). The two screws are round head, Torx type, 6mmx1.0x24mm long. The push-pin retainer is for an 8mm hole, panel thickness 3-7mm. Retainer head diameter is 15mm. The specs are in case you can't find them by part number and need to substitute.

If the filler tube was disconnected from the housing, you will need 2 each of part number 11519940, item #12 in the link. I don't have the spec on those. They are two smaller sized sheet metal hex head screws (7mm hex head), about 20mm in length. Depending on what was done during the body work, you may also need item #17, part number 11513599, which are the clip nuts for item #12.



It would save some time/expense if you could get your father-in-law to let you know if the plastic housing is what is moving around or just the filler tube. Another point of concern is the ground wire for the filler tube (#20 in the link). On my Crew Cab I can determine if it is secure by looking from under the truck. It attaches to the frame.

Hope this helps. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Awesome info, thanks! I'll go over there and check it out myself and get a better idea of exactly what I'll need to reattach it. Thanks again!

Ben
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Finally going to order the parts today. Having a hard time getting the time to go over and check it out myself so I'm going to order everything. When I go to secure it, do I just remove the wheel well liner and go from underneath? I guess it also depends on where it's unattached. Thanks again for the detailed info! I'll let you know how I make out.

Ben
 

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Hopefully, you won't have to remove anything. If you do need to remove the liner, it's only held in by four bolts, I think.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well I finally got the parts in and had a chance to get over to take a look at it. The black housing is attached to the body, it's the filler neck that isn't attached to the black housing. Problem is, when I ordered the parts I must have chosen the wrong trim level of his truck and they sent me other bolts that the part number is supposedly interchangeable, but it's way too big for those two spots. Another issue is, where these #12 bolts are supposed to go, there's no holes in the filler neck, but it looks like either there are two pins that line up with the holes in the black housing, or the original bolts were cut off so they are still screwed into the filler neck without the head on them. Does this seem possible? I'm going to have to get the right bolts first then pull off the wheel well to get underneath, I'm just curious why there are two "pins" sticking in those two spots. Thanks again for the help!

Ben
 

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Hey stranger! There are three holes around the opening for the tube in the black housing on my truck. There is one alignment pin in the fuel tube that goes in the top hole. The screws (#12) go in the two lower holes and secure the tube. The attachment flange on the tube should have clip nuts (item #17) on it for the two screws. It sounds like the fasteners may have been sheared off (possibly in the accident).
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yeah, I don't get a lot of time off, so when I do I'm usually working on my Hummer doing odds and ends so it's been awhile since I've been able to get over there to look at it. Your description helps a lot. So one of those must be an alignment pin and the other was probably broken during the accident or when they were repairing the body afterwards. I'll have to get the right screws and have another go. My father in law is hesitant to go into it too deep (unlike me, who would have had the well liner off on day one), so I'm hoping we can get it figured out as soon as I get the parts in. Thanks again!

Ben
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So all I've done since last week is to finally get a picture of what I'm dealing with. Someone earlier said the screws to mount the filler tube to the black housing were 7 mm screws but that seems too big for the spot I need. If you look at the picture, the hole at 12 o'clock and the one at 5 o'clock have what looks like metal pins that don't reach through the black housing which is why it's banging. I'm not sure what the hole at 7 o'clock looks like since my father in law has tinkered with it and rigged that screw/plastic rivet there that only helps a little. So I guess now my question is, are the two holes at 12 and 5 o'clock just alignment pins and if I get the right part for the hole at 7 o'clock I'll be in business? Or do two screws hold it in and only the top one is an alignment pin, meaning the one at 5 o'clock was sheared off somehow? Thanks again for all the help!

Ben
 

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Fuel Tank Filler Pipe Replacement
Removal Procedure



  1. Partially drain the fuel tank below the level of the fuel fill tube.
  2. Raise and support the vehicle, high enough to access the fuel fill hose through the wheelhouse liner.
  3. Remove the left rear pickup box wheelhouse liner.
  4. Remove the fuel fill hose ground strap bolt.
  5. Remove the ground strap from the frame.
  6. Loosen the fuel fill hose clamp (2) at the fuel tank.
  7. Disconnect the evaporative emission (EVAP) line (1) quick connect fitting from the fill tube vent line.
  8. Separate the fuel fill hose from the fuel tank.
  9. Remove the fuel fill hose screws.
  10. Remove the fuel fill hose from the vehicle.
  11. Cap the open end of the fuel tank in order to prevent system contamination.
Installation Procedure



  1. Uncap the fuel tank.
  2. Position the fuel fill hose to the fender.
  3. Install the fuel fill hose screws and tighten to 2 N·m (18 lb in).
  4. Install the fuel fill hose to the fuel tank.
  5. Connect the fuel tank EVAP line (1) quick connect fitting to the fill tube vent line.
  6. Tighten the fuel fill hose clamp (2) at the fuel tank to 2.5 N·m (22 lb in).
  7. Install the ground strap to the frame. Ensure that the anti rotation tab is inserted into the hole in the frame.
  8. Install the fuel fill hose ground strap bolt and tighten to 9 N·m (80 lb in).
  9. Install the left rear pickup box wheelhouse liner.
  10. Lower the vehicle.
  11. Refill the fuel tank.
  12. Install the fuel fill cap.
 
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