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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I've recently gotten problem with my colorado, when I start it up, it starts around 1k RPM idle, then drops to 800, then to 750, 700, 650, and finally 600 where it stops at. This whole process takes about 30 seconds, and once it hits 600, it will go back to 600 everytime i come to a stop, and occasionally it will drop below 500 and give me a error code, something about low idle blah blah, i just clear it and its good for a while. I have taken the TB completely off and cleaned it, which didn't do anything. I'm thinking I'm going to try new sparkplugs next, the densos or NGK iridiums to see if that affects this problem. I'm well aware of the service bulletin that GM put out in aug 07, 2007, but i'm not sure if that is what my problem is. I've also pulled out my camshaft solenoid and checked to make sure all three "shields" are still in-tact, which they are, except the middle one is pretty dirty, not sure if that would cause the problem. Anyways, any suggestions on what to do next will be greatly appericated, and can someone please tell me what the normal idle is SUPPOSED to be for a 05 3.5l colorado? I know it can't be 600... I havn't had this truck long so I don't remember what its supposed to be at.

Btw, the only "mod" i've done engine wise is adding a K&N cold air intake kit.

And for the record.. the other day i stomped it to pass a car and around 75 MPH the car accelerator quit working and a message came up saying "REDUCED POWER" ... I coasted for about a mile before rolling into a gas station and turning the engine off, waited 5 minutes and turned it back on, it had the service engine light and my buddy cleared the code, and it hasn't done this again... yet... dont know if this is a seperate diff problem or if its related to the idle situation, just throwing it out there! However, I did replace the fuel filter after this incident, but I don't believe that was the problem.

Thanks in advance!

-Lee
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Changed the spark plugs today to ACDelco iridiums (had the stock platinums in there before, apparantly), and this didn't seem to help the problem any. I'll take any suggestions at this point, thanks.

-Lee
 

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US Army 19yrs and ......
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Normal idel for me with my 3.5 is 580-620 RPM!

Try cleaning the MAF and throttle body!
 

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US Army 19yrs and ......
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Thanks Scott!
 

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I had this same problem with my 04 3.5. Well the truck had an evap leak and the throttle module ($190) and map sensor ($50) were bad. I had it all replaced and have not had the problem since man. I would have those things checked out man.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Took the TB (Throttle Body) off and cleaned it so clean that you could eat dinner off of it, that didn't fix the problem. Picked up some MAF cleaner today and will clean that probably tomorrow. I'll definently look into those issues mvfd2, thank you! I'll keep you guys posted and thanks for the responses!

Btw, the idle isn't smooth like it used to be, forgot to mention that at the top, its a rough idle.
 

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mine had the same problem, i went to the stealership and they said it was a programming error and they charged me around 300 bucks to fix it, but it did get fixed
 

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mine had the same problem, i went to the stealership and they said it was a programming error and they charged me around 300 bucks to fix it, but it did get fixed
I don't understand , unless I beat the dog shit out of the Canyon it don't act up and
one would think it would happen all the time once it happened. If you keep your filter clean
( two times a year ) and I run Zmax . First time you do the kit you will understand .:high5:
 

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You Smell That?!?!
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i had the same prob in my 04,
my tech reprogrammed the idle speed a little higher and never had a problem since...
it would throw the evap code previously mentioned but i never had to change after he sped the idle up a little bit
 

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The programmed TARGET IDLE SPEED is between 600-700 mostly all the 05's i've tuned have been set at 650. I always bump idles to 700/750 because it does make a difference in how the truck idles in all different types of situations. Your tach is close but never 100% readable because lets face it, it's a analog gauge. The best thing to do if you think your idle is off or feels funny is hook up with a tuner or someone with a scanner thatll read rpms and check that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just giving a update, a tech in my town who runs a shop wants to hook my truck up to a computer and make sure everything is running like its supposed to be, if he sees anything wrong, he's going to reflash the ECU for me. My pops unplugged the battery from the truck to reset something and according to the tech, with newer vehicles, doing this can throw the ECU off, or even doing things such as taking off door panels can throw the ECU off. So, hes going to hook his unit up and see if everything is factory set or if something is off, and reset everything back to "default" for me. Maybe this will work, but i've done everything else I can think of. Thanks for all the help and support guys! I might just have to end up finding someone to tune my truck and bump up the idle for me... but not sure of anyone in my area (Clarksville, TN).
 

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Formerly JHartColorado
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idk why but with my truck, when i'm around 35-40 miles per hour and try to coast, the rpms will jump from idle to about 1300 and back down, really really choppy, but if i put my foot on the gas, it's fine.
 

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how does taking a door panel off effect computer programming? I dont see any wires between the plastic arm rests and the cheap plastic clips :shrug:
 
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