Chevrolet Colorado & GMC Canyon Forum banner
81 - 100 of 116 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #83 ·
On my last trip wheeling, I had an issue with my engine bay getting so full of snow that it stopped my electric fan. So Tuesday I drew up a skid plate, sent it to the metal shop Wednesday, and got it from them Thursday. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. I'm curious how it will act in the snow. Now I just need to hurry up and get rid of that lift crossmember hanging down.



 

· Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #85 ·
My Air solenoid manifold showed up for my two air lockers and the Sway bar disconnect. $33 from China lol, let's see if it works.



A friend of mine also cut out my A-arm plates and the jig plates after I sent him a drawing.



I had to narrow up the bushings from Ruff-stuff a little bit to fit my frame.



I put the bushings in the frame and tacked the arm on to get the correct spacing



And then put the Jig together and used it to get the correct angle on the Uniball cup.





 

· Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #86 ·
Okay another small update. I was only able to tinker on a couple small things this weekend. I can't wait for this semester of school to be over in a couple of weeks... I can hopefully pick up the pace of the project next month.

I chopped the tubes off the AAM 11.5 So I can start cleaning those parts up.



I notched the Dana 44 housing at the pinion bearing for the JK dana 44 gears. The notches are required to allow the pinion bearing to be removed in the future.



I will be doing some drag racing next month so I needed to do something to stop my terrible axle wrap, so I started building some traction bars. I was hoping to do a "wrap trap" ladder bar type but there just isn't room right now the way I have my exhaust ran.



I pressed the axle bearings into the Dana 44 housing. The inserts I machined worked just like they were supposed to so far.



Test fitting the JK Dana 44 ring gear in the housing, and test fitting the stub shafts now that the bearings are in.

 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
1,492 Posts
Looking great Yeti. Love the pictures of your machine work. Seems to be coming together at a pretty good clip. I can't imaging what your capable of when you "pick up the pace".
 

· Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #88 ·
Thanks guys, here is another update.

I pulled everything out of the front end. I made some new tie rods out of hex stock, drilled and tapped to 3/4-16 left and right thread. It's pretty terrifying how small the stock tie rods are.







I test fit the diff and A-arms in my frame to check clearance to the oil pan and the steering rack. Everything is VERY close and some grinding in a couple spots on the diff and rack mount was required. I also swapped the two lower rack mount bolts to flat heads instead of hex bolts. It will be super nice not having the lift crossmember on there anymore acting as a snow plow.











I welded and gusseted the A-arms. The more I think about it, I think I will work on making some boxed upper A-arms. I don't trust these to take large side load.

 

· Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #89 ·
I had to make new mounting feet for the coilovers since the mounting bushing is integrated into the H3 A-arm.



I got the mounting brackets made for the diff and welded up.









A friend of mine wanted to practice taking some camera shots.



 

· Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #91 ·
More progress as of last night. I bent up my A-arm mounts and coilover towers using the swag offroad press brake. I had to make a slightly sketchy punch extension to get the parts to clear the press brake.



















I also figured out the drivers side of the steering rack has a smaller bore, so I had to turn down one of the steering clevises. That was not fun to hold in the lathe.

 

· Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #93 ·
What kind of travel numbers are you expecting out of the front suspension?
I'm not really sure, but not a lot. That wasn't really my goal with this though. My main goal was a lot of static ground clearance. So since the CV's will be angled down a bit at ride height, I won't have much down travel. And with the 38's I only have probably 4" of up travel until there is fender contact. Another thing I am finding out is that the Colorado stock A-arm mounting locations combined with the location of the front diff, there is a lot of CV axle plunge. I will probably eventually fix this issue by using a taller spindle and drop the lower A-arm mount a couple inches. That will have to wait though. I have a trip to the Oregon coast next month to go play on the dunes.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #94 ·
The driver's side coilover tower ended up being a pain since I had to make it clear the steering shaft.







Putting things together for an initial check. I ended up using stock Silverado 2500/3500 brake hoses by flaring a 3/8"-24 nut onto the Colorado line and then using a 3/8"-24 to 7/16"-24 adapter fitting.





With the weight on it. Using the 8 lug H2 wheels, it narrowed it back up to about the width it was with the stock Colorado A-arms and 1.5" wheel spacers.





Limit strap installed. Another thing I am finding out is that the Colorado stock A-arm mounting locations combined with the location of the front diff, there is a lot of CV axle plunge. I will probably eventually fix this issue by using a taller spindle and drop the lower A-arm mount a couple inches. It will give better camber change behavior and much less axle plunge. That will have to wait though. I have a trip to the Oregon coast next month to go play on the dunes. For now, travel will just be limited with limit straps and bump stops.

 

· Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #95 ·
The diff is also put together with the 33 spline ox locker and larger 4.88 JK gears. I used the kit from Nitro for the JK gear retrofit. I was not impressed with the kit at all. It didn't have nearly enough pinion depth shims, the solid spacer came with like 4 shims and non of them were small enough to dial in the preload very well. Also, the solid spacer itself was too long, I actually had to machine it in the lathe. The kit came with no instructions at all either.













 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
454 Posts
I thought I was a mechanic. Until I saw a real mechanic !
Great story, great pictures. It’s guys like who who make the automobile following a super great pleasure.
Job well done guys.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
454 Posts
I thought I was a mechanic, until I saw a real mechanic !
Well done guys.
You have done more on this one thread, then I could ever possibility do.
Very well done, pictures, and explanations of what was going on.
Great job. I guess I was so excited, I posted it twice !
 
81 - 100 of 116 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top