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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Everything I've recommended in this thread assumes the truck is in an "as built" condition electrically. You've now uncovered a "hack job" that cut into the wires that would directly cause this bad behavior. You absolutely need to get into that mess and restore the original connections, with solder, shrink tubing, properly bundled - this is a major reliability issue - quality counts. And yes, this could have effected the BCM, but lets be optimists at this point. Putting the old ignition module might help you since I don't think it was bad at this point (I think the wiring was the root cause), and that would bring in the old resistance value that the BMC looks for in validating the PASSLOCK starting sequence. I wouldn't try the relearn process until the wiring is straightened out.
Another day in Ohio heading to work 20 miles away with no problem... Waiting with truck running in parking lot and roughly at 36 minutes and some change the truck shut off... Finished day truck started, made it back home , left truck running and shut off 7 minutes later... I agree that I need to address the "hack" wiring job & once our supposed snow day Tuesday is finished I'll get it done as you stated and re-install the black ignition contact unit... Keep you posted, I owe you a cup of coffee!
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Possible on the BCM. You already checked the connecton and ground, so it would be internal. My question on that is why does return to functionality when you turn the key off for 15 seconds. If it was a thermal issue, I would expect it to stay broke for a little while, or at least fail quicker after restart.
A PCM tune can disable the Passlock. But we can't figure out if that is the root of the issue. Replacing the BCM may help, but those seems to be getting more challenging to find. And those are expensive options if you are not positive you will fix the problem.
If you put the original ignition switch back in, you will have to do the relearn process.
Yes, agree with you! Hopefully do this tomorrow and will post... Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
...thinking about it, you might want to keep the new ignition module since the original is well past the point where the typical PASSLOCK problems start creeping in. You have to do a relearn process either way.
That's the issue right now... I can't get it to reset... Where it said to disconnect battery for "x" amount of minutes depending who's link it is... Then it says turn to start (try to start), and return to "ON" and let "ON" for 10 minutes till PASSLOCK light goes out... Repeat 2 additional times w/30 second OFF each time, and it should re-start... There now is never a flashing of the PASSLOCK light during reset, it starts also after every 10 minute cycle... It is like the system is not wanting to re-set or even acknowledges it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Possible on the BCM. You already checked the connecton and ground, so it would be internal. My question on that is why does return to functionality when you turn the key off for 15 seconds. If it was a thermal issue, I would expect it to stay broke for a little while, or at least fail quicker after restart.
A PCM tune can disable the Passlock. But we can't figure out if that is the root of the issue. Replacing the BCM may help, but those seems to be getting more challenging to find. And those are expensive options if you are not positive you will fix the problem.
If you put the original ignition switch back in, you will have to do the relearn process.
What is a PCM tune? At this point I don't think the relearn (hard reset) process is working... I follow the procedure and after every cycle the truck starts up when turning it to crank position...It did have the flashing light scenario a few days ago, but it stopped doing that function.
 

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What is a PCM tune? At this point I don't think the relearn (hard reset) process is working... I follow the procedure and after every cycle the truck starts up when turning it to crank position...It did have the flashing light scenario a few days ago, but it stopped doing that function.
The PCM is programmable, and through this the PASSLOCK system can be disabled.

I think your going to find some really crappy connections when you get into that ball of tape, and once fixed the relearn process will work. Crossing my fingers...
 

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Man I hope that is the case. Like Ken said, get it back to stock condition and see if that solves the intermittent issue. (It may take another re-learn event)
If the truck runs all week, great. Now you have to decide if you want to risk a proper install with your starter unit, or just call it done.
If the issue persists after the truck is returned to stock condition, then we circle back and start deep diving the IGN circuits.
Whatever we learn here we need to share with 05withan18. He has random shut offs too....
 

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I just spent some quality time with the installation manual of your aftermarket remote starter. The installer had to do some serious "voodoo" to get that thing to work around the PASSLOCK system, and accommodate the logic of three different control signals from the ignition switch (which aren't as simple as Acc, Run, and Crank). Something that crossed my mind reading the manual options for programming the device is that it may have dropped its programming from memory (extended dead car battery time) and reset to a factory default mode: This would have screwed up your world...
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Man I hope that is the case. Like Ken said, get it back to stock condition and see if that solves the intermittent issue. (It may take another re-learn event)
If the truck runs all week, great. Now you have to decide if you want to risk a proper install with your starter unit, or just call it done.
If the issue persists after the truck is returned to stock condition, then we circle back and start deep diving the IGN circuits.
Whatever we learn here we need to share with 05withan18. He has random shut offs too....
Yes, agree this should be shared! It is interesting, but very taxing on my mind & body! I'm not 20 year old kid anymore...
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
I just spent some quality time with the installation manual of your aftermarket remote starter. The installer had to do some serious "voodoo" to get that thing to work around the PASSLOCK system, and accommodate the logic of three different control signals from the ignition switch (which aren't as simple as Acc, Run, and Crank). Something that crossed my mind reading the manual options for programming the device is that it may have dropped its programming from memory (extended dead car battery time) and reset to a factory default mode: This would have screwed up your world...
Found this video on You Tube last night where a fellow is installing my remote in a Silverado truck... He really seems to talk it through... https://youtu.be/Rq0LKtWFhyI
 

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Found this video on You Tube last night where a fellow is installing my remote in a Silverado truck... He really seems to talk it through... https://youtu.be/Rq0LKtWFhyI
The fact that it already had factory remote start makes it a lot easier. (Why is he installing another remote start system? Alarm?) Unless I'm missing something, there's no factory remote start connections into our BCM, and without this the install becomes "voodoo". He also was using custom made harnesses (he discusses the availability of them in the beginning of the video) that greatly simplified the connections to the actual system box. He's obviously a pro and has done many of these. I like those connectors he used to tap the factory harness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
New day today (Tuesday)... Took off work to completely remove aftermarket auto start... Repair "hack job" that was done on wiring under dash! With that said and done I tied to do a PASSLOCK relearn... I turned the key and the truck started right up! No, flashing PASSLOCK light or initial stall out... Unhook battery cable and let set and tried again... Started right up! I don't know how I can do a relearn with it acting this way... I took the steering column apart again and re-installed the old ignition module (black component) and tried relearn again... The truck started right up! At this point the remote start is completely out of the truck, I have changed out the ignition switch component and the engine runs for about 4 minutes and shuts off... I wait 15-30 seconds and the truck will restart with the key every time! I hooked up my code reader and it had P0030 (HO2S Heater Control Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1), P0449 (Evaporative Emission System Vent Valve/Solenoid Circuit) and now PO601 (Internal Control Module Memory Check Sum Error)... I was in the process of changing the upper/lower O2 sensors last week and had to wait on an offset socket for the Upper O2 sensor... I got it today finally and installed as my reading said replace both and it should also remove the P0449 code with the P0030... I erased the codes again and at this point I only have the P0601 (Internal Memory Error)... I am in the process of trying to reset this through negative battery unhook followed my turning the ignition switch to "ON" praying this helps!
 

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Well shoot. That may mean the PCM is the culprit. Either internal, or power/ground connections to and from.
It is possible that the resistor in both switches is similar enough that the Passlock does not recognize the difference. Possible..
Or the remote starter installer tuned it out of the PCM.
Searching around here. P0601 seems to point to a PCM reprogram or replacement.

I would need to defer to the PCM gurus on the best plan of action.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Took truck out went 26 miles (furthest I've driven) thinking "maybe?" The PASSLOCK light was still on, no codes on my tester... Then it quit! Pulled off road and sat the usual 15-30 seconds with "key OFF" and it started right back up... Drove another 12 miles and it quit! Again, started right back up and made home with 43 miles total only to set in driveway and have it die again... Codes showing were the P0601 (memory issue) and the P0449 (evaporative vent issue)... I have no clue what direction to go! They say you can't just buy and install a Power Control Module without having it "tuned" to the vehicle? I can find used, but are they "plug & play" beings they were already in use? I haven't given up on it yet! I did pull the driver's seat for more access and did clean out all the goodies...
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Well shoot. That may mean the PCM is the culprit. Either internal, or power/ground connections to and from.
It is possible that the resistor in both switches is similar enough that the Passlock does not recognize the difference. Possible..
Or the remote starter installer tuned it out of the PCM.
Searching around here. P0601 seems to point to a PCM reprogram or replacement.

I would need to defer to the PCM gurus on the best plan of action.
Any help appreciated!
 

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Yep...when we discussed earlier that the PCM is programmable, the "check sum" is a self test of the PCM memory programming. And unfortunately, the P0601 code is specific to "read only memory" (ROM), which is basically "burned in" at the factory. So based on this discription of the problem this can't be fixed with a reprogramming - you probably need a new PCM. This question needs to be taken to the "tuning gurus".
 

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Based on the tech manual, they need some basic information programmed into them prior to installation (VIN, mileage, etc), and then they need some calibration programming while in the truck. Again, we need the tuning gurus to chime in here...
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Yep...when we discussed earlier that the PCM is programmable, the "check sum" is a self test of the PCM memory programming. And unfortunately, the P0601 code is specific to "read only memory" (ROM), which is basically "burned in" at the factory. So based on this discription of the problem this can't be fixed with a reprogramming - you probably need a new PCM. This question needs to be taken to the "tuning gurus".
Any good leads on this part at a reasonable cost?
 
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