Highly likely...Does the PCM stop me for a proper relearn of the PASSLOCK system then? Is this possibly why the light never goes out now?
This doesn't look unreasonable:Any good leads on this part at a reasonable cost?
Another day... Wednesday... Did another "hard reset" on the PCM module after I took off to get numbers off back for replacement. They said disconnect negative cable, then turn headlights on... I assume this would drain some type of capacitior in the PCM? Cleaned (contact cleaner) 3 plugs "again" and re-seated them... Tried re-learn again and the PASSLOCK light stayed "solid" ON the whole time and never went off after 10-11 minutes as everyone said it would! Still I continued the on/off procedure and the truck started, the light never blinked, not went off with the ignition on... Is the PASSLOCK chip in the round ignition black part or in the key tumbler end under the metal cover? I ask only because I never had a PASSLOCK issue till I put in the new complete ignition assy. at $102... I can swap it back out... Thoughts?I've been doing some digging - recommend you try to get your existing PCM reprogrammed. ROM in these boxes is actually EPROM (electronically reprogrammable ROM), so if its only a corrupted data load (cross fingers), maybe the programming can be restored.
Another day... Wednesday... Did another "hard reset" on the PCM module after I took off to get numbers off back for replacement. They said disconnect negative cable, then turn headlights on... I assume this would drain some type of capacitior in the PCM? Cleaned (contact cleaner) 3 plugs "again" and re-seated them... Tried re-learn again and the PASSLOCK light stayed "solid" ON the whole time and never went off after 10-11 minutes as everyone said it would! Still I continued the on/off procedure and the truck started, the light never blinked, not went off with the ignition on... Is the PASSLOCK chip in the round ignition black part or in the key tumbler end under the metal cover? I ask only because I never had a PASSLOCK issue till I put in the new complete ignition assy. at $102... I can swap it back out... Thoughts?The smartest guys regarding the inner secrets of the PCMs are
Supermodulation
Lime-Swap
PCMofNC
PCMforless
I would email one of those guys and describe the condition and tell them about the P0601 code. They will know what the options are.
So define ignition switch... The key lock (aluminum housing) or the black (2 screws) end w/wire plug? I have already swapped the black plastic housing w/contacts internal and "no change". If it's the aluminum housing then it's another job ahead... Thanks!Passlock is just a resistor in the ignition switch. Put the old one in to see if it behaves normal. Follow the procedure correctly - I believe the key should be in RUN, but make sure.
I sure hope so! I ordered the PCM last night and they email to say it was the wrong VIN number for truck! I volleyed back & forth with 4 emails only to find they were at fault! Sent them BMV registration with VIN & sent photo of windshield plate and door post sticker! Man, this is a long journey!Keep you posted... Thanks!Yes, the switch is the black part.
After rereading your last post, I'm guessing the reading of the bad PCM memory block is shutting down your truck, since that error code is only appearing after the shutdown. You might be close to solving this...
Got my new PCM module today and installed... Followed procedure sent by company to the "T"... I reinstalled my new ignition switch (black plastic part)... The relearn for PASSLOCK "started" the truck after the 3rd 20 minute w/30 second off routine... The initial crank did NOT allow the truck to start... The 2nd it just sputtered... The light remains on still! I also now have a crankshaft position system variation not learned code 315? The PCM company says that a dealer will have to "hookup" to fix this! I am shocked and disappointed... I also still have PO449 emission vent valve issues. I am considering ordering the purge valve solenoid as they are not that expensive. Thoughts anyone?Another interesting description of the P0601:
"Possible causes of OBD code P0601 GM: A code P0601 GM in most cases means the PCM has gone bad. This is possibly due to a short-circuit inside the PCM. Or, if you disconnect the wires/connector from the PCM while the battery is still connected, that may also cause this code. "
Having a bad/loose connection from the PCM (e.g. the wiring of the aftermarket remote starter) is a known cause of this problem.
Got my new PCM module today and installed... Followed procedure sent by company to the "T"... I reinstalled my new ignition switch (black plastic part)... The relearn for PASSLOCK "started" the truck after the 3rd 20 minute w/30 second off routine... The initial crank did NOT allow the truck to start... The 2nd it just sputtered... The light remains on still! I also now have a crankshaft position system variation not learned code 315? The PCM company says that a dealer will have to "hookup" to fix this! I am shocked and disappointed... I also still have PO449 emission vent valve issues. I am considering ordering the purge valve solenoid as they are not that expensive. Thoughts anyone?definitely in the black plastic housing.