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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Not new to the forum, but really am a reader and not a poster. I just found a 2010 Crew Cab Z71 with the V8 engine for sale with only 25k miles on it. Truck is immaculate and will be delivered to me on Monday. Truck is bone stock.

I have an 06 Z71 Crew Cab that I did a simple Zone key and shackle 3" lift on. That allowed me to run 32-11.5-15 tires with rubbing occurring only at near full lock and I was fine with that little bit of rubbing.

I have already purchased a Wulf key & shackle 3" kit for the new truck, but after seeing some others on here I want to go higher and bigger on the 2010. I'm thinking the 4" High Country suspension lift as a start, but I know that is not going to get me where I want to be. Is a body lift the next step or could the Wulf key and shackle kit be used in conjunction with the 4" suspension lift?

I know I will have to buy new wheels with 4.5" backspacing to accommodate the 4" lift. I will probably stay with 17" or 18" wheels but want to get a 33" tire or something close to that under the truck without cutting a bunch of crap off.

There are so many ways to accomplish this and I'm looking for the most cost effective way that keeps as much ride integrity as possible, but in the end, I will pay what I need to pay to make the truck look the way I want it to......if that makes sense.

Any help would be greatly appreciated because I'm lost as can be!
 

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The 3" body lift is listed for 2008 only. It will fit your truck because it fit mine. I have a 2011 factory V8 truck with full H3 suspension front and rear with E-lockers. With the H3 bits being 3 inches wider per side, I had to get higher offset wheels to keep from rubbing in the front. It did have zero offset Fuel Throttle wheels. The body lift and suspension net 6 inches of lift but the H3 bits limit the size of tire I can run with no trimming to a 33.
If you decide to put the body lift on, there are no provisions for the V8 intake tube. You can either have a custom one made, run a volant which has enough adjustment, or live with the accordion section of the hose being at an awkward angle. Everything else worked as it should. The rear bumper needed some trimming since my truck has the tow package but nothing an angle grinder and a few minutes of test fitting won't take care of. Front bumper plastics needed trimming which is expected due to the frame design. You will lose your tow hooks unless you do a lot of cutting or a custom bumper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the response. I’m very naive about lifts. I also have no clue what your talking about when you say H3 bits or E-locker. I’ve owned 4 wheel drive trucks my entire life but have never really modded any. I need detailed explanation!

As I said in original post, I know I need 4.5” backspacing on the wheels after I put 4” lift on (I learned this only from reading through old posts for the last 3 days) but clueless to what offset should be. Don’t want tires to stick out past the flares.

Im also not ok with losing the tow hooks or anything aesthetic to the truck.
 

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I posted pics and details on the FB group of my suspension swap and body lift. Search my name, Kane. Hummer H3 suspension will swap to these trucks, lots of info on it. Some H3's came with electric locking front and rear differentials.

Sounds like what you want to do can be accomplished with the 4" lift with TB crank and some trimming around the fenders. If your wheels do stick out past the flares, it's a good reason to get pocket flares (rivet style) which are about an inch wider.
 

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Not new to the forum, but really am a reader and not a poster. I just found a 2010 Crew Cab Z71 with the V8 engine for sale with only 25k miles on it. Truck is immaculate and will be delivered to me on Monday. Truck is bone stock.

I have an 06 Z71 Crew Cab that I did a simple Zone key and shackle 3" lift on. That allowed me to run 32-11.5-15 tires with rubbing occurring only at near full lock and I was fine with that little bit of rubbing.

I have already purchased a Wulf key & shackle 3" kit for the new truck, but after seeing some others on here I want to go higher and bigger on the 2010. I'm thinking the 4" High Country suspension lift as a start, but I know that is not going to get me where I want to be. Is a body lift the next step or could the Wulf key and shackle kit be used in conjunction with the 4" suspension lift?

I know I will have to buy new wheels with 4.5" backspacing to accommodate the 4" lift. I will probably stay with 17" or 18" wheels but want to get a 33" tire or something close to that under the truck without cutting a bunch of crap off.

There are so many ways to accomplish this and I'm looking for the most cost effective way that keeps as much ride integrity as possible, but in the end, I will pay what I need to pay to make the truck look the way I want it to......if that makes sense.

Any help would be greatly appreciated because I'm lost as can be!
I’m never heard of a High Country Lift. Got any links to it?

I‘ve been wrenching on a 2010 V8 for over a decade and will help if I can.

Please forgive me for saying so but you don’t seem to have a lot of focus for your build.

If you’re wanting to stuff 33s just get a 4” suspension lift and call it done. Don’t overthink things. You’ll likely not be happy with your trucks ride if you add a heavy TB crank and a body lift to a suspension lift.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I meant Tuff Country. Working night shifts this week and mind struggling at 3:00am when I posted original thread!

And I take no offense at all to your comment. I have about as much knowledge about lifting a truck and suspension systems as I do flying the space shuttle! I don’t work on my own vehicles mechanically at all! Want a stereo put in or something electronic, that I can handle,but a mechanic I am not!

I’m a complete novice. That is why I’m here is to find out exactly what I need to do without wasting a bunch of extra money.

I don’t want the tires to stick out past the stock fender flares, and I know that is determined by offsets and stuff like that on the wheels, but no clue as to how to determine that either. Never put aftermarket wheels on a vehicle in my life. Like I said, absolute Newb!

I’ve scoured posts on this site for the last few days trying to figure out exactly what to do, but I just find myself getting more and more confused. I don’t want to buy tires and wheels 2 or 3 times before I get it right.
 

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I don’t want the tires to stick out past the stock fender flares, and I know that is determined by offsets and stuff like that on the wheels, but no clue as to how to determine that either. Never put aftermarket wheels on a vehicle in my life. Like I said, absolute Newb!

I’ve scoured posts on this site for the last few days trying to figure out exactly what to do, but I just find myself getting more and more confused. I don’t want to buy tires and wheels 2 or 3 times before I get it right.
Make sure you call Tuff Country before you order to verify the lift kit knuckle has the updated ABS sensor provision. The 2010 has the newer (better) abs sensor that bolts onto the steering knuckle.
 

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I just installed a skyjacker 4" suspension and a SuspensionMaxx 1.5" body lift to fit 285/70/17. Glad i added in the body lift cause i still get slight rub when turning. I have 4.5 backspace wheels to clear the lift spindle. I think a backspace of 4.75" or less is needed to clear the spindles. My tires stick out past Z71 fender flares. Check out tiresize.com and wheelsize.com for some good info on wheel tire specs.
 

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I just installed a skyjacker 4" suspension and a SuspensionMaxx 1.5" body lift to fit 285/70/17. Glad i added in the body lift cause i still get slight rub when turning. I have 4.5 backspace wheels to clear the lift spindle. I think a backspace of 4.75" or less is needed to clear the spindles. My tires stick out past Z71 fender flares. Check out tiresize.com and wheelsize.com for some good info on wheel tire specs.
This is the 1st hand knowledge I was hoping to see. Thanks @BackInBlack...I'm going to leave this one to you. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I just installed a skyjacker 4" suspension and a SuspensionMaxx 1.5" body lift to fit 285/70/17. Glad i added in the body lift cause i still get slight rub when turning. I have 4.5 backspace wheels to clear the lift spindle. I think a backspace of 4.75" or less is needed to clear the spindles. My tires stick out past Z71 fender flares. Check out tiresize.com and wheelsize.com for some good info on wheel tire specs.
This is the kind of info I need!

With the 1.5” body lift did you have to remove tow hooks or anything? I read that with any body lift there were all kind of modifications that had to be done including the fan, tow hooks etc.


Could you possibly post a picture of how far yours stick out past the fenders? Or maybe measure it? I get the backspacing to clear the spindles, but if I used a different offset wheel wouldn’t that help keep the tires up under the truck? What offset are your wheels, or does that even matter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I just installed a skyjacker 4" suspension and a SuspensionMaxx 1.5" body lift to fit 285/70/17. Glad i added in the body lift cause i still get slight rub when turning. I have 4.5 backspace wheels to clear the lift spindle. I think a backspace of 4.75" or less is needed to clear the spindles. My tires stick out past Z71 fender flares. Check out tiresize.com and wheelsize.com for some good info on wheel tire specs.
I actually just looked at your profile picture and see your truck. Yea, those stick out way further than I want. Looks like those tires are very wide. I'm guessing your wheels are wider than 9 inches?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I actually just looked at your profile picture and see your truck. Yea, those stick out way further than I want. Looks like those tires are very wide. I'm guessing your wheels are wider than 9 inches?
Sorry, after I figured out WTH I was doing on the website you suggested, it seems the less backspacing the less the tire will stick out but yet still provide more clearance from the suspension and frame than factory. So, please correct me if I'm wrong, but according to that calculator on the tire-size site, if I were to go with 17x8 wheels w/ 0 offset, tires would stick out about 1.78" further than factory and have an inside (suspension & frame) clearance of .78". 4.5" backspacing makes them stick out almost 3" further than factory. I guess I'm asking is I can do what I want with backspacing as long as I don't go higher than the 4.5"? Is that correct or am I thinking of this backwards?
 

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Backwards. The higher the backspace the more tucked in the wheel will be. Factory is just over 5"bs. My wheels are 4.5" bs with 17x9 wheels. I'm running a 285/70/17
 

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I am very interested in this thread. I have a 2010 V8 Canyon Z71 currently still stock suspension - wise that I am wanting to be the base for an overlanding vehicle build. Because I will be carrying significant weight in the bed and on an overhead rack I suspect I should stay away from a body lift but would like to go with as large a size as I can on the tires. I was thinking about a combination of the Tuff Country 4" lift with the Suspension Maxx key and shackle kit for a combined 7" in the front and 6.5" inches in the rear. Other than the rougher ride of the cranked torsion bars, are there any potential issues I am missing? Any idea how large that will allow me to go on the tires? It will be a dedicated overlanding vehicle, not a daily driver at that point so function will be more important than form. That means I will be willing to do some trimming, just not a drastic amount. @HNTN4YA sorry if this seems like a thread hijack, but I suspect the answers I am looking for will also be relevant to the answers you are looking for.
 

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Good luck! 😉
Thanks....I think. :rolleyes:

It's going to be a long project, a little at a time. I will start with upgrading the off-road performance first and go from there. I took it to an off-road park Saturday and really tested its capabilities for the first time. I have to say, I was impressed with what it is capable of in stock form. Can't wait to see what it can do with larger tires and a front locker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
That’s not bad. Your profile pic made it seem like they stuck out 4 or 5”. I can live with that. One more question. Would I be able to keep the stock wheels if I were to add something like a 1 or 1.5” wheel spacer?
 

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Yeah wheel spacers give you less backspace. I really don't trust them though and can cause vibration issues if not hub centric.
 
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