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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all, I've searched the forum a lot and got a lot of good info, but still have a number of questions and would really appreciate some advice!

Just bought a 2wd 2010 Colorado WT - 70k miles, base model, manual windows doors etc everything base. Its 5-speed manual, regular cab. I don't even know if its a z85? Are all W/T models z85?

After looking at many pictures, I'd prefer to do a 3/4 drop, but I have a few things I want to keep it being able to do:
  • I want it to ride decently well - I'd prefer as close to stock as possible of a ride. I don't want to feel like I'm losing fillings every time I hit a tiny bump in the road. I'm used to lowered cars from way back when so I can handle a bit of roughness, but don't want it to rattle my teeth.
  • I still need to be able to do light hauling (for example, a bed full of yard mulch, say 400-800lbs in the bed)
  • I would prefer not to notch the frame if possible, as I'm worried about making it weaker. Also I don't know of any good shops in NC that can do this right.
  • If I do need to notch, per this thread Thread on notch strength I am wondering if there is a kit for the "pipe notch" for our trucks?
Shooting for 3/4 drop if possible

Questions:
  • With a reg cab 5 speed, do I need to notch anything besides arguably the frame?
  • Are there concerns about pinion angle for a reg cab?
  • Front options: DJM LCAs (3") versus balljoint plus something else for the final 1"? The LCAs make sense to me to get a full 3" with a hard part, but how is ride quality? I know shorter springs from my lowered car days can ride like poo
  • Rear options: Belltech leafs + 1" block vs 4" block on its own? How will either of these affect ride quality and bed loading capacity - can I still haul 400-800 lbs of yard mulch?
  • Air helper suspension - is that something I can add later to restore any lost hauling capacity? If I do have to notch, is this still possible to add?
What do you all recommend for best stock-like ride, while hopefully dropping 3/4? I was hoping to do it with the belltech leafs plue 1" block, and the axle hits the frame too much, I figured I could always remove the 1" blocks. However if the belltech leafs drastically reduce my carrying capacity then I may prefer the 4" blocks.

Any thoughts/recommendations would be great! Thanks all
 

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I have the djm arms had them forever I also have the bt leafs they will start 2 sag after awhile I like the ride of both but I'm 5/7 now and a cc if u do go with the 4" in the back u will definitely need a notch if u plan on hauling anything pipe notch is a custom thing airbagit has notch kits I can't remember who else but u can still use helper bags when notched in the back using angled blocks would be key
I honestly would just do a 2/3 with the bt bjs and a 3" angled block the ride will be nice and u can still haul stuff
When u lower it u will notice the chevy lean on the ps
If u need anymore help I will try 2 help u
Good luck
P.s. u might have issues with the drive shaft hitting the cab so a BFH would come in handy
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have the djm arms had them forever I also have the bt leafs they will start 2 sag after awhile I like the ride of both but I'm 5/7 now and a cc if u do go with the 4" in the back u will definitely need a notch if u plan on hauling anything pipe notch is a custom thing airbagit has notch kits I can't remember who else but u can still use helper bags when notched in the back using angled blocks would be key
I honestly would just do a 2/3 with the bt bjs and a 3" angled block the ride will be nice and u can still haul stuff
When u lower it u will notice the chevy lean on the ps
If u need anymore help I will try 2 help u
Good luck
P.s. u might have issues with the drive shaft hitting the cab so a BFH would come in handy
Thanks T-bone for the reply! I am torn because looking at the pictures thread I really prefer the look of the 3/4 much more than just a 2/3, but I don't want to regret it either. I'm happy to install air assist with either drop if it'll help keep the ability to occasionally load the bed. realistically I'll probably only haul something two times a year, things like a bed of yard mulch or a bunch of sticks/yard waste and honestly that's really it.

If I did a 2/3 with ball joints, how do you correct the lean - I don't want to cut a coil simply because I've done that before on cars, and it kills the ride completely LOL

If I do a 3/4, would you recommend the LCA or ball joint and spring from belltech? I've read a bunch of people posting after doing belltech springs where the front actually doesn't get lowered and it looks reverse raked, don't want that haha!

Maybe I should do a 3/3 with angled blocks.... That way I could go to 4 in the rear when I find a shop I can trust to notch?

Oh and if I do 3 in the front, still on stock wheels and tires, can I keep the fender liner?

Thank you for bearing with all my questions!!! I've read a ton of threads and there just be seems to be a lot of conflicting info so I'm trying to do this right the first time!
 

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If u do the 2/3 drop I would use the drop struts from bt I have those right now they come with rings so u can drop up to 3" so u can play with that 2 get it how u want
I have the the springs but didn't like them cuz like u said it didnt do much and plus they're bouncy I actually did cut a coil on my ps spring and no issues
If u wanna do the 3/4 yea go with the lcas un less u wanna spend the money and get the bt adjustable coilovers and in the back if u don't want 2 or cant find a good shop 2 notch it get the bt leaf springs they do start sagging after awhile and I can do the 3/3 and u will have the option 2 put 1" blocks back there 2 if u think they will fit without the frame slapping it does get annoying after awhile
My bed floor has a hump in it from where the pumpkin slapped the crap out of it but I'm tubbing the rear soon
As far as the fender liner u should be ok it's not hard 2 remove if u need 2 though u will hear it rub when ur driving and hit a little bump in the road ot doesnt look bad without them
 

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Discussion Starter #5
For the front if I do 2" you said the belltech drop struts? I can't find any info on those- I thought with fronts through belltech the only options is either springs, ball joints, or both? Is there another option for the fronts?

So if I do want to definitely to 3" in the front, do you think the DJM LCAs ride better than the belltech springs + ball joints?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Can anyone recommend a way to drop the front 3" that will allow for the best alignment and also best ride? I've read a bunch about the LCAs not riding as well or being harder to align? I also read a bunch of threads where people using belltech springs end up not getting lowered enough and the front end is too high up.

I'm thinking I'll order 3" and 4" blocks since they're cheap and if 4" is too low then I'll just swap for 3" :). Which blocks have the pinion angle correction built in? And does switching blocks require another alignment?
 

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For the front if I do 2" you said the belltech drop struts? I can't find any info on those- I thought with fronts through belltech the only options is either springs, ball joints, or both? Is there another option for the fronts?

So if I do want to definitely to 3" in the front, do you think the DJM LCAs ride better than the belltech springs + ball joints?
If u have more money get the bt adjustable coilovers or Qa1s idk much about those
Look on bt and type in struts I'm sure they will post up
But I love my djm arms and ran them forever before I started adding 2 the front still run them I never got around 2 installing my bt bjs theres another company I think its mcgraphs or something like that but dont know anything about them either
 

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Don’t forget these things lean to drivers side. I made a shim for the bilstein coil over. My drop is cut 1 coil out of moog springs. You may want 1.5 coils cut.
I only have 2”compression travel in rear. I’m going to put notch. Good reinforcement should be ok to tow.
Don’t forget to run those foam bumpstops. They help a lot.
 
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