If it functions I would think the heat is your issue
3.5L adapted to a toyota r150 clutch slave issues
Hey there,
So I swapped a 3.5L I5 into my toyota pickup and for the most part its all good but I keep blowing slave cylenders, the first one I thought it was becuase I accidently released the plastic restraining clips prior to install, the second one I installed perfectly and it still eventually blew out allthough I must say it seemed to take longer.
The setup goes like this:
I5 flywheel
jeep ax15 pressure kit (pressure plate disk and slave)
ax15 input shaft
ax15 bearing retainer (internal slave)
r150 trans
it all fits well and the clearances all work out, I needed to make a bushing to get the input shaft seated properly but that all apears to be in good shape.
At this point in time my leading ideas are the slave is over extending and I'd need to shim it a bit but this makes no sense as it's just barely contacting the pressrue plate like it should, I would try a slave for a 3.5L but I'm pretty sure it won't sit on the jeep bearing retainer.
Is there supposed to be a litle clearance betweent he throwout bearing and pressure plate or is there supposed to be a degree of contact and pressure? the way the jeep slave is atached (on a single pin with a retaining clip) would allow it to move around slightly when there is little or no pressure on the throwout bearing, maybe this is a cuase.
Second idea is the fluid (dot 3) is getting too hot and boiling in the slave, maybe ruining the seals, with all aluminum block there seems to be a lot of heat transfered to the bellhousing and trans, this clutch setup being for an older iron block engine may stay a bit cooler? Maybe upping it to dot 4 or 5 will keep the fluid from boiling.....
a 3rd idea is that my piolot beaing isn't quite in there right and some driveline vibrations are shaking the slave up too much and wrecking it somehow, this also sems unlikely as it runs smooth as eggs aside from some high speed vibrations I'm sure are the tires, any vibration in that area would be linked to engine speed anyway and not vehicle speed.
I guess i'm looking for advice and ideas since this setup has not been done, atleast not publicly, so thanks in advance for your time.
So I swapped a 3.5L I5 into my toyota pickup and for the most part its all good but I keep blowing slave cylenders, the first one I thought it was becuase I accidently released the plastic restraining clips prior to install, the second one I installed perfectly and it still eventually blew out allthough I must say it seemed to take longer.
The setup goes like this:
I5 flywheel
jeep ax15 pressure kit (pressure plate disk and slave)
ax15 input shaft
ax15 bearing retainer (internal slave)
r150 trans
it all fits well and the clearances all work out, I needed to make a bushing to get the input shaft seated properly but that all apears to be in good shape.
At this point in time my leading ideas are the slave is over extending and I'd need to shim it a bit but this makes no sense as it's just barely contacting the pressrue plate like it should, I would try a slave for a 3.5L but I'm pretty sure it won't sit on the jeep bearing retainer.
Is there supposed to be a litle clearance betweent he throwout bearing and pressure plate or is there supposed to be a degree of contact and pressure? the way the jeep slave is atached (on a single pin with a retaining clip) would allow it to move around slightly when there is little or no pressure on the throwout bearing, maybe this is a cuase.
Second idea is the fluid (dot 3) is getting too hot and boiling in the slave, maybe ruining the seals, with all aluminum block there seems to be a lot of heat transfered to the bellhousing and trans, this clutch setup being for an older iron block engine may stay a bit cooler? Maybe upping it to dot 4 or 5 will keep the fluid from boiling.....
a 3rd idea is that my piolot beaing isn't quite in there right and some driveline vibrations are shaking the slave up too much and wrecking it somehow, this also sems unlikely as it runs smooth as eggs aside from some high speed vibrations I'm sure are the tires, any vibration in that area would be linked to engine speed anyway and not vehicle speed.
I guess i'm looking for advice and ideas since this setup has not been done, atleast not publicly, so thanks in advance for your time.
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
It does function even while leaking untill it completely fails, I suppose if it was over extending it would fail pretty fast, and once it's bleed and functioning it won't leave any slack to the pressure plate right? What fluid does a colorado/canyon use? It releases and grabs well, it feels a buit light comparred to the toyota external slave setup but otherwise fine.
You're in uncharted territory dude. Pirate 4x4 may be your best bet.
id guess overexxtended slave cyl.
Well I'll be able to pick up my new slave either tomorow ofr friday, my plan so far is to make a small shim less then 1/4" and switch over to dot 4 or 5 fluid.
Uncharted teritory indeed, I'm suprised there been no more signifigant problems and I've deffinatly shaken this truck up enough to test it. if these fixes don't work I'll be looking for a cheap MA5 trans from a pick and pull, I'm even open to an auto.
Uncharted teritory indeed, I'm suprised there been no more signifigant problems and I've deffinatly shaken this truck up enough to test it. if these fixes don't work I'll be looking for a cheap MA5 trans from a pick and pull, I'm even open to an auto.
So I've read in order to properly shim an internal slave you need to take the slave measurement without the spring in it and you want 1/6-1/4" gap, I dind't realise this and based my measuremnts when the slave had a spring in it fully compressed so I guess shimming is likely my issue.
The fact that it took longer to fail the second time makes sense if you figure a broken in clutch plate reduces that gap slightly. now I'm not sure about the brake fluid switch.
The fact that it took longer to fail the second time makes sense if you figure a broken in clutch plate reduces that gap slightly. now I'm not sure about the brake fluid switch.
Your setup is actually pretty close to mine: 4.2 I6 Supra.
vortec4200.com ? View topic - Vortec 4200 Supra Engine Swap
I had the same problem and it was over extension of the slave. Took me about 3-4 trans installs before I finally figured it out.
vortec4200.com ? View topic - Vortec 4200 Supra Engine Swap
I had the same problem and it was over extension of the slave. Took me about 3-4 trans installs before I finally figured it out.
Oh and goddammit where's the pics?
How much did you shim it?
I'm using a custom flywheel, colorado bellhousing, clutch, and slave. So it's not apples to apples. But it took 3/4" to get it right. The first time it would just barely disengage the clutch.How much did you shim it?
Sounds like a shims issue.
The other note is yousaid there was movement in the master cylinder (Clip/pin set up), might be worth looking into a way to make it a more rigid mount? If you have tackled this frankenstien project, I'm sure fabbing up a new mounting bracket would be cake for you
The other note is yousaid there was movement in the master cylinder (Clip/pin set up), might be worth looking into a way to make it a more rigid mount? If you have tackled this frankenstien project, I'm sure fabbing up a new mounting bracket would be cake for you
Cool, thanks!
You now have a thread on vortec4200.com too. vortec4200.com ? View topic - 3.5 I5 into 92 Toyota Truck
Feel free to post there for swap specific issues.
I've got the master pretty solid now, engagement/disengagement hasn't been an issue it's the leaking part, this second slave in there now isn't completely blown quite yet I can still drive it around so long as I keep it topped up but it's on it's way, I'm thinking the break in has allowed it to tighten up a bit so it hasent been allowed to completely over extend this time.
Aside from that I suppose the engagement is at the bottom of the travel but I don't think I'll need 3/4" I'm thinking more around 1/4" or less.
Aside from that I suppose the engagement is at the bottom of the travel but I don't think I'll need 3/4" I'm thinking more around 1/4" or less.
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
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