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383 stroker

10K views 62 replies 18 participants last post by  TurboAl 
#1 ·
After alot of thinking,I have decided on a 383 stroker,525 hp.I want to do away with all unneeded electronics.Like electric windows,map sensors and all other junk no needed.I will be ordering the engine from whites raceing .Has anyone else done away with all the unneeded electronics.
 
#3 ·
electric gremlins,passlock keeps going off.It has done it three times last week,and keeps throwing a engine light when the truck comes to stop lights.Have been in the dealership several times.Just sick and tired of it.They showed me a new colorado last week,I think they didn't like my response. lol.To me they are ugly,sorry guys for those who like them.All I want is the basic necessities,like fuel gauge,oil pressure tech,water temp and speedometer.
 
#5 ·
I can't remember off hand.But the idle would drop down to 300 rpm,almost shutoff,throwing the engine light.Have replaced coil packs ,sparkplugs and idle sensor switch.The motor just hit 100,000 last month.I want something that I can work on,and not have to depend on someone else to fix.The motor I am looking at is carburated so no electronic fuel injection.
 
#9 ·
If you're thinking that a home made spliced together wiring harness will have fewer gremlins, you might be unpleasantly surprised.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Strip it to a shell and rebuild!

Just as note.....most states will require a special registration for a "highly" modified vehicle. I say this since you will be removing most of the DOT required safety and emissions systems that the truck had from the factory.

Removing all of the electrical "junk" should be a nice weight reduction too. Plus you can make some nice cash on the airbags, sensors, PCM, BCM, power window and door lock parts, ABS module and so on.

Your defiantly going to need the Painless wiring harness to run all of you power needs after the deletion of the OEM system; ie for lights, signals brake lights, radio, gauges and so on. This should be a need project though.

****If you need all of the manual window stuff for the front doors let me know, I can acquire this stuff locally
 
#11 ·
1badI5 Thanks.That was a concern I had about manual window and door cranks.I didn't think about selling airbags and other stuff.LLV.MA5, I think I wont have any lights or codes to worry about.This is the main reason I am doing this,I really like this body style colorado and not planning on getting rid of it anytime soon.Plus this engine swap may be alittle faster than doing a ls1 swap.This will start in early spring.I could go ahead and pull the electric windows and electric locks before doing this.
 
#12 ·
1badI5 Thanks.That was a concern I had about manual window and door cranks.I didn't think about selling airbags and other stuff.LLV.MA5, I think I wont have any lights or codes to worry about.This is the main reason I am doing this,I really like this body style colorado and not planning on getting rid of it anytime soon.Plus this engine swap may be alittle faster than doing a ls1 swap.This will start in early spring.I could go ahead and pull the electric windows and electric locks before doing this.
1. Once you pull the airbags you will get warning lights for those, same for the ABS.

This will get sticky if you only eliminate some system and not all of them....since the BCM and PCM do communicate with one another.

2. Power locks are easy to delete and work around......you still have a key and lock thingy over the door handle

3. power window delete in the front doors is easy......the backs are easy too......but the parts are not as common.

The other systems that are effected........well the gas pedal wont work, cruise control, windshield wipers are BCM driven, new gauges(BCM runs the current one). You will need to rewire every system to have a useable street legal truck.

You might want to sit down and plan out more then just a simple 383 swap..........to many other system involved with the swap.

Strip and rebuild if you merely want a new truck look, but old school tech
 
#16 ·
When I start this,I will drive another truck until done.I will pull all electronics I don't need.The gas pedal will have to be swapped out.Will pull dash and all door panels out and remove any and all wires I don't need.Been looking for a painless wire harness for this swap.Do they make a manual rear windows for colorados
 
#18 ·
WDEagle,I can't remeber the code.When I try to start truck it will start just for a couple seconds then shut off and it will try to start again by itself.If it doesn't start it throws the pass lock on.It has been doing it more often now.Three times last week.
 
#19 ·
If what it does is start, runs for a second, then shuts off. that is exactly what PassLock does. have you tryed to get that fixed? some one can turn VATS off with a tune via HPTuners.
 
#21 ·
These trucks trucks are set up so that you can 'tap' the key, so to speak and it'll start. basicly you flip the key to 'start' and release the key. the truck will then crank and start its self, in a sense. i would talk to the dealer about why that would be messed up, if it is.
 
#24 ·
I just can't help but feel like you are going to have a lot more problems than you think with this swap.

That said it should be a badass swap and truck afterward and I can't wait to see the finished product.
 
#25 ·
I would recommend that you draw everything out on paper before doing this swap. Draw out how you plan to eliminate electronics, how you plan to replace the gas pedal, etc. I would then post those drawings here, let people chime in, and edit the schematics. Only then would I order stuff for this swap--or well, more-than-a-swap...
 
#26 ·
I talked to two differant mechanics and they suggest I do a ls1 swap instead of a carbureted small block.I checked with a local salvage yard,they have a ls1 with transmission and all wire harnesses out of a 2004 vette with 60,000 miles for $4,500.00.Was wanting something simple but not simple to do.
 
#27 ·
Ls1 would be easier. Since, ya know, these truck do use an ls-based motor
 
#28 ·
The carb'ed small block would be unique -- but in order to be successful you'll really need to do your homework and have the entire swap worked out on paper before you buy your first part. Worse-case scenario is you start, you get in over your budget from having to mitigate electrical gremlins, and then you start looking at an LS1.

If you draw it all out--work it all out before hand, you'll know what you're getting into.

I recently built a remote cabin and everyone was amazed that I had everything needed for the job out there and got it shelled in in less than a week. We were 3hrs away from the nearest lumber yard and in the ~20klbs of lumber I didn't run out of everything, had all the correct fasteners, & all the right tools. The only way that happened is that I spent 1.5months drawing up every wall, figuring out a cut list, and working out every small detail.
 
#31 ·
I recently built a remote cabin and everyone was amazed that I had everything needed for the job out there and got it shelled in in less than a week. We were 3hrs away from the nearest lumber yard and in the ~20klbs of lumber I didn't run out of everything, had all the correct fasteners, & all the right tools. The only way that happened is that I spent 1.5months drawing up every wall, figuring out a cut list, and working out every small detail.
Being in Alaska you kinda have no choice but to have everything
 
#30 ·
Or................run a carb'd LS1

Holley makes a kit but you'll still need Current Performace aka CPWire to do up a partial harness for you
 
#32 ·
I thought about that,but the mechanic said it would be harder to get it adjusted.I have talked to the wifey and she has agreed to let me spend $8,000.00 on this swap.I do want to run an x pipe with dual exhaust.One quick question for those who have done this swap,do you have to have cats on the exhaust .
 
#35 · (Edited)
Sooo......your going to LS swap it now???????

Cats.....depending on the emission laws out there.
 
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