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4WD Still Not Engaging After Changing Actuator

47K views 47 replies 10 participants last post by  USE257@antelope 
#1 · (Edited)
I have a 2007 Colorado 2.9L Manual Transmission. I changed the front axle actuator today, and searched the forums, with vague results. Sorry in advance if this is a repeat thread, but we are about to get hammered with snow this weekend.

Now my truck, when trying to shift into 4 high, makes a clicking and solenoid movement sound. The three lights on the dash for the 4WD, will blink when you push them, but then go back to 2WD shortly after. This happens for both 4 high and 4 low.

Please help with any suggestions or potential fixes. Thanks!
 
#2 ·
Hello,
My name is Jason and I'm new to this site. I have a 2004 GMC Canyon and I am having similar problems. When I place the truck in park or neutral and push my 4wd indicator either on low or high it blinks and you can hear a grinding noise then a click. But once that happens the light shows it being in 4wd but only the power of the back wheels are engaged. Trust me we got 3 inches of snow this evening and was none to pleased with my ride home! Thanks for any suggestions or info thanks!
 
#3 ·
If you are sure the actuator is working then you really only have the solenoid at the transfer case and control module under the seat. I had the control module go on mine, but it flashed and neither the actuator or solenoid did anything.

Hello,
My name is Jason and I'm new to this site. I have a 2004 GMC Canyon and I am having similar problems. When I place the truck in park or neutral and push my 4wd indicator either on low or high it blinks and you can hear a grinding noise then a click. But once that happens the light shows it being in 4wd but only the power of the back wheels are engaged. Trust me we got 3 inches of snow this evening and was none to pleased with my ride home! Thanks for any suggestions or info thanks!
If you put it in 4 low do you feel the gear reduction in the back tires? if so it's the front actuator. If it doesn't then it's likely the solenoid on the transfer case.
 
#4 ·
Mine has a similar issue, and I have narrowed it down to one of the two sensors on the transfer case that detect shift position. Here is my situation:

When you push the 4x4 button, it flashes, truck stays in 2wd, even though you can hear the clicking and hear the solenoid move. However, if you put the truck in neutral or park and shut the truck off, when you restart it, the truck will be in 4x4, and the indicator shows 4x4 but flashes. I have been able to use the truck in 4x4 for some time this way, and since I don't have a garage and don't want to work outside in the snow, I will swap out the sensors when it warms up.

Try yours to see if it does the same - it may at least get you through the worst of the snow. A friends 2004 Colorado has the same issue, so I don't think it is all that uncommon.
 
#5 ·
Where can I find the transfer case solenoid and the transfer case position sensors?

When I went to change the front axle actuator, I was not too pleased to find that it was broken off nearly to the threads. This truck was my wife's ex husbands, and apparently he didn't take much care of it.
 
#7 · (Edited)
#9 ·
I put mine in neutral and engage 4 high. You can hear it switch engage and then nothing. Dash lights on 4wd both blink and stay blinking. You can't feel it really do anything. I'm putting it in the garage this week to see what's going on. I will let you guys know. Thanks.
 
#10 · (Edited)
I have a similar headache.

4cyl, manual, 4x4.

When I press the 4wd button, I can hear the transfer case motor going, the light blinks, then all lights go out and I get a service 4wd message on the cluster.

At first I thought for sure it was the TCCM, bought a new one, and it does the same thing. After some research on here I decided it must be the front axle actuator. I confirmed that after pressing the button and checking that the front drive shaft does engage, so it must be at the actuator. I Installed the new actuator and still no change. I even tried pressing the button with the actuator plugged in but not screwed in to the housing and confirmed nothing is happening at the actuator.

So its not the TCCM, its not the actuator, not the TCCM or frtaxle fuse. Im thinking it must be a ground, broken wire, or transfer case solenoid and the transfer case position sensors. Anything else it could be? Anyone else have the same symptoms? It seems like most people get blinking lights and nothing happening. My lights are going out and the service 4wd light is coming on
 
#12 ·
I had the same problem on my '04. I had to replace the bearings in the driver's side axle tube. There's a splined shaft in there and a collar that slides over it to lock the 2 front wheels together. When the bearing wears out that splined shaft no longer lines up correctly and the actuator attempts to slide the collar on to that shaft, but can't because it's not lined up correctly. Parts are cheap bearing for the axle tube and a new seal for the end where the CV axle slides in. Here's a video of how to do it:
 
#13 ·
I tried parts_guy's approach pushing the 4wd hi button while in neutral (or park), light on 4wd hi button keeps flashing and it doesn't go into 4wd. Then I shut the key off. When I restarted I found it was in 4wd hi. First time I tried it went back into 2wd OK when I pushed that button. However, on second try, I had a heck of a time getting it to return to 2wd. It took several tries, a little driving around, a little back and forth, more pushing of the 2wd button, maybe even another restart, but finally 4wd disengaged.
 
#14 ·
So I disconnected the wiring and took the front axle actuator out. The plunger is retracted. Then I plugged the actuator back in and pushed the 4WD button, nothing happened with the actuator. I want to test it to see if the actuator is at fault, or if the problem lies with it not getting signal or power. The connector has green, black. black/white and reddish-orange leads. Which are the power wires that I could connect directly to 12 volt to see it it's working, and/or I could connect a test light to the connector and see it it's got power to it when the button is pushed?
 
#19 ·
Did a bit more digging and I believe this is how to test the actuator. If your actuator has 5 pins , and you already know which is the 12 volt and the ground , the center pin is the second ground . Remove the actuator and hook up a 12 volt source and a ground as you did before and then make contact between the center pin and ground. If the actuator is good you should see movement when the center pin is touched to the ground.
340405
 
#23 ·
This must be driving you nuts. I reread reply #13 and you stated you had 4 wheel drive which would have been impossible to have without the actuator working no? All I can think of now is to connect the actuator to its harness,while not installed in axle, and observe for movement as an assistant pushes the 4High button - CAREFULL. If no movement then test for power at the harness leads, if power at leads , likely a new actuator is needed. No power would indicate a problem in wiring. Post back your findings when you can.
 
#24 ·
Already tested. No movement when actuator was removerd and 4wd drive button pushed. Now, just as we both surmise, check for power in the connector at the end of the leads to front axle just to make sure. Right, a couple of weeks ago I did have it in 4WD as described in #13. Another extenuation circumstance, both axles are showing a bit of bearing wear, even some seal seepage/leaking attests to that as does a little visual play. Worse on left than right. Even so, the control system still ought to do what it should. i think I may be chasing an elusive intermittent problem. Hate those!
 
#25 ·
So I bought a new front axle actuator. Unfortunately I'm working alone again today so have no assistant to push the 4WD Hi button while I watch the new actuator, uninstalled but plugged in. After I push the 4WD Hi button it keeps blinking and went I look under the truck I see that the new actuator is not extended. i'm wondering, is it supposed to remain extended while in 4WD or is it's plunger extended only momentarily?
 
#27 ·
It would be nice if you could get a person to help with testing as you wanted . If that new actuator works in that test you could eliminate it as the problem and that the power to it is working. If you can complete that test and no movement you maybe looking at it not getting power. You need to do some electrical testing before buying another part or two. Check out these two videos from YouTube on the procedures .
GM 4 X4 FRONT ACTUATOR DEMO / MACANIC 21.
CHEVROLET SILVERADO 2500 HD PUSH BUTTON 4 X 4 FIX /DAN SMITH.

One more point. The Colorado is know to have issues with the ground / splice pack connections becoming corroded and causing electrical issues. There are one above each inner fender , look for the black box with a wad of wires going into it.
 
#28 ·
Thanks for getting back to me. I'm well aware of the Colorado ground problem and worked over the two ground locations you mention right after getting the machine, maybe 18 months ago. Having the blower motor connection burned up when I got it led me to familiarity with the ground problem. I wouldn't have bought the new actuator without more diagnosis pointing to it but I found it on e-bay, new, for about $100 less than a new GM/AC Delco branded part. I just checked out the video you recommended. Good stuff. It's still a mystery why the actuator did nothing when I connected it directly to battery. I still have to try that with the new actuator.
 
#29 ·
Wish I has a step-by-step diagnosis procedure for testing. I finally got a helper the other day so I could watch my test as the 4X4 buttons on the dash were pushed. No response at the front controller wire end terminals. My old electronic diagnostic code reader shows no codes. I wonder if the newer, more sophisticated and pricy ones might detect the problem.
 
#30 ·
What your talking about is a pro scan tool , very costly , and it certainly would find your issue. Hopefully you get this solved or you may need to visit a shop to have them diagnose this ordeal.
In the mean time have you ever established having 12 volts at the connector end of the harness to the actuator ? If you do have 12 volts that new actuator would activate. If no volts what supplies power to that harness end ? It may be the 2/4 switch I suspected at first or is it the TCCM ? On the Colorado Fans forum a guy had a similar 4x4 issue and after he followed my tip about the 2/4 switch he had a friend test the switch finding it bad. He is up and running in 4x4 mode now after replacement of that switch. I asked him to post back how that switch was tested but he never replied, which sucks when people don't post resolutions to their problems. I bet this friend access to a pro scan tool. Let us know if you have the 12 volts for sure and look at the TCCM under the seat for obvious signs of corrosion or damage.
 
#31 ·
I was under there two days ago, while I had an assistant, trying to get the connector off the actuator at the transfer case hoping to do the very thing you're suggesting. I hate those Delphi connectors. Seems like the combination key to unlocking and disconnecting is different on every one. I pulled out the little grey lock out OK, the one that locks the latch, or at lest another stage of the latch. But there was some further secret to unlocking & disconnecting. I didn't have time that day to figure it out. Remember any secrets to unlocking that one?
 
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