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Lord Bearded One
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So I was coming back to work from lunch and found a parking lot that hadn't been plowed in the last few days. (We have around 3 in of snow on the ground) anyway i decide to see what my Canyon can do in the snow. (First winter I've owned it) So I go in cruising at a quick 10MPH, cut, break, and punch. Halfway through the slide I hear *ding ding ding* one I stopped moving I looked at the gage cluster and the ABS was lit with a message flashing ABS Fault. I was like WTF. So I drove for a while thinking maybe it didn't like the slide. It stayed lit and the message stayed there. Got back here and shut it off. Thinking for a sec I turned it back on and it was cleared.

Any ideas why that happened/ If i screwed anything up/ any thing else you can think of? I hate to think that I'm going to have to reset the damn message every time i slide.
 

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Lord Bearded One
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Discussion Starter #2
I hope so. I really don't want to have it in the shop already.
 

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that happened to me last year in the rain... i floored it and broke them loose... abs fault lit up.. i stopped... shut the truck off.. turned it back on it it cleared. it did that about 3 more times but it hasnt done it since.
 

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Lord Bearded One
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Well at least I'm not the only one this has happened to. :)
 
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take it in for inspection just incase. It can be nothing or in my case, it can be fucking expensive.
 

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Happened to me about 4 months ago too during one of my big nasty burnouts!:D nothing has happened since but im with zq8dude it could be expensive if something does break so might try to get it inspected. i did but my local stealership is a bunch of tards and found nothing. hasnt happened since.
 
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Happened to me about 4 months ago too during one of my big nasty burnouts!:D nothing has happened since but im with zq8dude it could be expensive if something does break so might try to get it inspected. i did but my local stealership is a bunch of tards and found nothing. hasnt happened since.
yeah, i have proof of it being bad. I ended up spending 1100 on it and that was after the stealership discounted me.
 

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the abs module monitors the wheel speed at each of the front wheels and the rear together via 3 speed sensors. it uses the VSS to determine if all are spinning the same speed as each other in conjunction with the vehicle speed. when doing a burnout or powerslide your back wheels are obviously going faster than the front, once that variation is recognized the module THINKS your front brakes are locked up, it attempts to correct the situation by DUMPING the brake pressure past the front brakes via the abs dump valve, essentially releasing the locked up brakes to prevent uncontrolled manueaverability (locked up means sliding which you cant control as easily), if dumping the pressure doesnt correct the variance in the wheel speeds the fault light will illuminate letting your know theres a problem. this of coarse if you were actually in a panic braking situation.

no harm is done, if the code cleared on its own it was a soft code and stored in memory but wont keep the light on. if you had a bad wheel speed sensor or wire the light would remain on as the abs self test its components on every key cycle and if a fault is found it would illuminate the light.

if you are covered under warranty and you want piece of mind take it in, if you dont have a warranty dont waste the money. i assure you its nothing.

im an ASE certified tech, and i have clocked over 100hrs of advanced ABS training. this is one of the areas i strive in.
 

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NW Surfrider
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Hey schard, is there a way to actually disable ABS? i have never had it on a vehicle before, and i absolutly hate it. I am convinced that anything that grinds so bad it makes you yank your foot off the brake peddle is crap.
 

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the abs module monitors the wheel speed at each of the front wheels and the rear together via 3 speed sensors. it uses the VSS to determine if all are spinning the same speed as each other in conjunction with the vehicle speed. when doing a burnout or powerslide your back wheels are obviously going faster than the front, once that variation is recognized the module THINKS your front brakes are locked up, it attempts to correct the situation by DUMPING the brake pressure past the front brakes via the abs dump valve, essentially releasing the locked up brakes to prevent uncontrolled manueaverability (locked up means sliding which you cant control as easily), if dumping the pressure doesnt correct the variance in the wheel speeds the fault light will illuminate letting your know theres a problem. this of coarse if you were actually in a panic braking situation.

no harm is done, if the code cleared on its own it was a soft code and stored in memory but wont keep the light on. if you had a bad wheel speed sensor or wire the light would remain on as the abs self test its components on every key cycle and if a fault is found it would illuminate the light.

if you are covered under warranty and you want piece of mind take it in, if you dont have a warranty dont waste the money. i assure you its nothing.

im an ASE certified tech, and i have clocked over 100hrs of advanced ABS training. this is one of the areas i strive in.
you're exactly right, a waste of money? absolutely, how much?


$651
 

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the abs module monitors the wheel speed at each of the front wheels and the rear together via 3 speed sensors. it uses the VSS to determine if all are spinning the same speed as each other in conjunction with the vehicle speed. when doing a burnout or powerslide your back wheels are obviously going faster than the front, once that variation is recognized the module THINKS your front brakes are locked up, it attempts to correct the situation by DUMPING the brake pressure past the front brakes via the abs dump valve, essentially releasing the locked up brakes to prevent uncontrolled manueaverability (locked up means sliding which you cant control as easily), if dumping the pressure doesnt correct the variance in the wheel speeds the fault light will illuminate letting your know theres a problem. this of coarse if you were actually in a panic braking situation.

no harm is done, if the code cleared on its own it was a soft code and stored in memory but wont keep the light on. if you had a bad wheel speed sensor or wire the light would remain on as the abs self test its components on every key cycle and if a fault is found it would illuminate the light.

if you are covered under warranty and you want piece of mind take it in, if you dont have a warranty dont waste the money. i assure you its nothing.

im an ASE certified tech, and i have clocked over 100hrs of advanced ABS training. this is one of the areas i strive in.
Great explanation!! Thank you for that.

And this is why running two different wheel/tire sizes on the front vs. the rear messes with the ABS. Makes sense.
 

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Hey schard, is there a way to actually disable ABS? i have never had it on a vehicle before, and i absolutly hate it. I am convinced that anything that grinds so bad it makes you yank your foot off the brake peddle is crap.
you can disable it by simply pulling the relay, this of coarse will illuminate the light on the dash, and IF you get into an accident and the insurance company finds out you could be looking at a loss of coverage and maybe civil suits from the other party. i wouldnt recommend it.

the pulsing (grinding) of the pedal is the solenoids at work (they work fast huh). the abs system can "apply, release and re-apply brake pressure to any given front wheel or both rear wheels up to 10 times in a single second. this is DOG YEARS faster than any human brain can comprehend that they are even sliding. if you must disable it so be it, but i surely dont recommend it.
 

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you're exactly right, a waste of money? absolutely, how much?


$651
im lost. please explain.

and RRCN, that is 100% correct, staggered sizes will cause abs problems, usually ABS engagement at the very end of a stop, one of the wheels is reading 0mph and the others are still shown to be moving it reacts as if that wheel is locked up and will engage the dump valve, pulsing the pedal, and scaring the shit out of the driver.

anti-lock brakes are a good thing, and when working properly can save your life, or atleast a preventable accident. i used to feel the same way, screw ABS, just something else to break. then a few years ago i was driving in my nissan hardbody with modified suspension (load leveling valve on rear, lowered suspension means more rear brake bias, so very easy to over brake in a panic situation) so im driving on this wet busy road (50mph) and all of a sudden brake lights 5 feet in front of me, of coarse i slam the crap out of the brake pedal, and the abs engages immediately, the tires try to lock up, every few milliseconds you hear them want to slide. moral of that long boring story is ABS saved my butt. rearending someone would have been devastating as i LOVED that truck, and it was paid off so i carried liability only.
 

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Lord Bearded One
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Discussion Starter #18
thanks for the incite guys. specially schardbody. I do have the warranty left for 6k but I trust the ASE training (otherwise I'd do all the repairs myself:))
 

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thanks for the incite guys. specially schardbody. I do have the warranty left for 6k but I trust the ASE training (otherwise I'd do all the repairs myself:))
if you still have 6k left of warranty then just keep an eye out for any oddball brake issues like ABS engagement for no reason. otherwise dont worry. no problem with the help.
 

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yah ive started my truck 2x the past 2 years ive had my truck and have had the ABS light come on. As soon as i shut it off it resets and turns off the light...
 
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