I was running my AC on 3 and I heard a loud pop then what sounded like a spring from the area under the glove box. Ever since then if I put my AC on 3 it is a loud vibration noise from under the glove box and if I put it on 4 it is extremely loud. Also while the air is cold it does not blow much harder on 4 then it does on 2 so I have trouble cooling my truck. When you turn it up it sounds like it is blowing harder but it doesn't really blow harder. Anyone have any ideas what the problem might be. My truck is a 2009 Colorado 2wd Z71 crew cab.
AC Problem
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This is not a performance problem. Or an Interior problem. Nor is it even an A/C problem. It is an HVAC Blower problem.
Search HVAC Blower using the search function (upper right). It's discussed quite a bit and you'll find an answer on how to correct the problem. It's a very common problem with these vehicles.
It may be the wire harness, if not the resistor. The failed resister usually results in a fan that works only on fan speed #4.
The harness becomes burnt often. Perhaps the harness is just now getting bad.
In the meantime, you'll have to roll the windows down.
This is probably where you should start:
http://www.355nation.net/forum/how-...fan-motor-resistor-connector-replacement.html
Search HVAC Blower using the search function (upper right). It's discussed quite a bit and you'll find an answer on how to correct the problem. It's a very common problem with these vehicles.
It may be the wire harness, if not the resistor. The failed resister usually results in a fan that works only on fan speed #4.
The harness becomes burnt often. Perhaps the harness is just now getting bad.
In the meantime, you'll have to roll the windows down.
This is probably where you should start:
http://www.355nation.net/forum/how-...fan-motor-resistor-connector-replacement.html
Apologies for not entering my question under the correct forum. I'm new and not that familiar with everything yet. I read through those posts but none of them spoke of hearing something loudly snap like I did and my ac unit runs at all settings and sounds like it is blowing harder with each setting but the air is not making it out of the vents. I also checked the wires underneath and they weren't burnt or loose in anyway. I'm not an expert by any means but there is a portion of the blower located under the glove box that is circular in shape and located close to the passenger door that is vibrating and extremely loud. This doesn't seem like the same issue all of those other posts were describing.
Sorry, wasn't really trying to imply it was in the incorrect spot...just more bringing up that it's a wiring/electrical problem, not an A/C or interior question.
Could the loud sound have been the sound of the blend door slamming closed? Or the recirc door, i there is such a thing?
Do the controls feel correct when you turn the various dials (temp change/position change)?
Could the loud sound have been the sound of the blend door slamming closed? Or the recirc door, i there is such a thing?
Do the controls feel correct when you turn the various dials (temp change/position change)?
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362 Posts
Sounds like your fan broke, maybe a little f.o.d
I wish I knew more about ac because I have no idea what some of terms you used refer to! We were just driving down the road then a pop like something slammed closed and what sound like a spring popping. Like if you kicked one those spring doorsteps, if that makes any sense. The control knob turns fine and it actually sounds like its working its just thst it doesn't blow very much harder on 2 then it does on four. And when you turn it to 3 and then 4 there is a loud noise like something is vibrating. It seems like something slammed closed and it is inhibiting the air from making it out of the vents. I thought about just taking the cover off the blower under the glove box and seeing if anything looks visibly broken. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
The problem that you are describing is an unusual one that I don't think anyone has reported yet. As mentioned before, it could be something associated with the blower assembly. If you are not going to take it to a shop for diagnosis/repair, you are going to have to start digging deeper yourself. In order for you to determine if the problem is associated with the blower, you will have to remove it. You can get some help with the removal from the steps in this Thread:
http://www.355nation.net/forum/how-interior/28018-how-get-rid-blower-motor-squeak.html
If you don't see any obvious problem with the blower, check inside the case where it is mounted, to see if there is anything loose in there. After you do that, let us know what your findings are.
http://www.355nation.net/forum/how-interior/28018-how-get-rid-blower-motor-squeak.html
If you don't see any obvious problem with the blower, check inside the case where it is mounted, to see if there is anything loose in there. After you do that, let us know what your findings are.
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3,236 Posts
The vibration sounds like to me that the blower motor is going out. I would also check the air ducts near the blower motor. Have you checked to see if the position selector ( main, main and floor, floor, floor defrost, defrost) is still working properly? Also the recirculation button does that change anything? The slamming shut and spring noise could be from one of those two things. I think the recirc door may have broke and slammed shut. I do not know where it is tho.
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Word of advice, this still isn't an A/C issue. If you take it to a shop, make sure you tell them it's related to the HVAC system. Granted they should know when you tell them about the vent problem, but to reduce the risk of a shop investigating your A/C system unnecessarily, going in with the proper knowledge is a little more helpful.
Think about it like this, if you heard the same sound in January, you would call it a heater problem.
If you lower the glove box door all the way, ALL the way, you can see a cam gear on top of the ducting. There should be two gears aligned. Take a look back there to see if the gears look misaligned. Sometimes one of the gears becomes dislodged making it inoperable. From your description, this does not sound right, but it's a simpler visual check and something maybe to start with.
I really doubt that is going to be helpful though...that just controls the door inside of the duct and is unrelated to the physical fan. If it is indeed a fan issue.
Think about it like this, if you heard the same sound in January, you would call it a heater problem.
If you lower the glove box door all the way, ALL the way, you can see a cam gear on top of the ducting. There should be two gears aligned. Take a look back there to see if the gears look misaligned. Sometimes one of the gears becomes dislodged making it inoperable. From your description, this does not sound right, but it's a simpler visual check and something maybe to start with.
I really doubt that is going to be helpful though...that just controls the door inside of the duct and is unrelated to the physical fan. If it is indeed a fan issue.
So glove box is off, and I dropped the fan (picture 1) and found a piece of plastic (picture 2) sitting inside of it. It looks like screw went into one end and probably held this plastic rectangular cover that sits right behind my glove box in place. In pictire 3 that is the opening where the plastic rectangle with foam around the edgeappeats to have been before it broke. That plastic piece was just laying flat in there and is what I heard vibrating around. Also my guess is that is what's stopping the airflow from getting to my vents since it was laying on top of my fan? Can I just remove it? Hopefully the pictures are attached.
Attachments
Okay, that is not good news. That piece came from the Recirculation Valve (also known as the Inlet Door). If the piece came from the drive end of the door you will have no control of it and it can be stuck in any position. It looks like from your picture that the door is in the "recirc" position. The door is motor driven with the motor mounted on the outboard end. With the key in the "on" position, push the "Recirc" button and see if the door moves down. It should be down (closed) with recirc off. If the door moves down to the normal "closed" position, you should be able to operated the A/C without any problems. If it is stuck in a position other than open or closed or is flapping around, you will have to do something. The trick is to try to get the door down to the "closed position, either by using the drive motor or some mechanical means i.e. coat hangar with a hook bent on it. If the door stays in the open position as it is now and you operate the A/C for an extended period of time is could cause the evaporator to freeze up.
The reason for the above suggestion is because to do a proper repair (replace the door) requires removing the dash and the HVAC case assembly, which will require recovering and re-servicing the A/C system. At a shop you are looking at a big buck repair.
Check the blades on the blower for any damage from the plastic piece, spin it by hand, and if it looks good reinstall it. If you can feel it vibrating when it is running, you will probably have to replace it. If you get it operating, don't try to run it in "recirc" mode.
The reason for the above suggestion is because to do a proper repair (replace the door) requires removing the dash and the HVAC case assembly, which will require recovering and re-servicing the A/C system. At a shop you are looking at a big buck repair.
Check the blades on the blower for any damage from the plastic piece, spin it by hand, and if it looks good reinstall it. If you can feel it vibrating when it is running, you will probably have to replace it. If you get it operating, don't try to run it in "recirc" mode.
Ok blades on fan look good and spins freely by hand. The piece that broke off is from the motor end of the recirc door. So when I dropped the blower the door was literally just laying in there on top of the opening above the fan. So im sure that the vibrating I heard was the recirc door vibrating from the airflow. It was also blocking the airflow causing me to not have proper airflow from my vents. If I remove that door and dont replace are you saying that will damage something by having a mix of recirc and outside? What if I lock it in the outside air position?
Just tested recirc motor and it works, but it never stops turning. I held my finger against it to see if it turns and it did, but it never stopped turning. Then when I pressed the recirc button again it switched and spun in the other direction but never stopped. So im guessing it turned the door closed but then kept turning and snapped the end off of the door and the dor the fell and was blocking the airflow from the blower. I went ahead and unplugged the recirc motor so it quit turning and burnt up. What a mess! Anyone with any good ideas feel free to post! Is there no way to replace these without removing the entire dash? Can I find a way to permanently leave the door in the outside position and just not have recirc air anymore? Will that cause any problems?
Like I mentioned in my last post, you will have to find some way to pull the door down to the "closed" position. That is the "outside air" position. In the photo you posted, the door is in the "open" position which is the "inside air/recirc" position. If it will remain in the closed position when you operate the A/C there shouldn't be a problem.
No. That door only changes the airflow through the case. With it open to the interior the airflow source comes from the interior of the truck, as in it "recirculates" the air. With the door closed to the interior, all of the airflow comes from outside of the truck. Neither position will prevent the heater from warming the interior. If it was in "recirc' it might be a bit faster warming up, but it won't prevent warming.
Well I screwed the recirc door closed behind the glove box so it is open to the vent going up to the outside. Definitely isnt going to move now! Put everything back and it works perfectly. Just wont have recycled air as an option anymore I guess. But only other option was to pay hundreds of dollars to have a repair shop fix the recirc door and motor and that hardly seems worth it. Thanks for your help. I have some other issues that I will post about next to see if anyone else has the same issues I do.
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