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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys. Sorry this has to be so overblown, but I've got a weird one. I was told that my front rotors had to be changed on my 06 Colorado, and that I was better off having a pro doing the work due to the age of the truck and the possible shape of the bearings.
After getting spooked by watching a tutorial vid on a 4x4, I decided it was the best way to go. So, I was allowed to order parts on my own to keep parts down. I ended up getting Raybestos wheel bearings for a ZQ8 suspension with speed sensors pre-installed, and a PowerStop performance brake and rotor kit, with drilled and slotted rotors, and scorched ceramic pads.
After the installation and break in procedure had been performed. I'm getting some weird occurrences.
On initial startup and roll-out, whenever I would brake and slow speeds, I would get a very pronounced jutter in the brakes. when I took it over 30 mph, the ABS fault light would show up, but then the brakes would behave normally. I took my truck back over to the mechanic, who scanned it for me and showed the ABS sensor fault is coming from the passenger side speed sensor.
Now, I already plan on calling Rock Auto, who I got all these parts from, to get a replacement wheel bearing under warranty (Raybestos' recommendation), but not sure if this is going to solve all my problems. The jutter kind of throws me off, but I'm wondering if this is because of the wheel sensor as well, or if I have a problem with my rotors. I doubt it's a caliper issue, since there wasn't an issue with it before. And like I said, the jutter goes away after I throw the ABS code.
Any thoughts?
Oh! I've got an 06 Colorado I5 1LT on a ZQ8 suspension package, 4L60E transmission and only rear wheel drive (don't dis me for being spooked by the 4x4 vid :) )
TIA
 

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Impossible to tell exactly what you mean by "jutter", but I can guess.

A defective ABS sensor could make anything happen as it fools the ABS unit to go into ABS mode and release hydraulic pressure in an attempt at preventing (perceived) lock-up.

I would replace the hub assembly and then see what results you get from there.
Sux because you'll need another alignment, etc.

I'm a couple weeks away from a total front-end and front brake rebuild, with parts sitting around my motel room, including new hub assemblies. So I can sorta feel your pain.
 

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The jutter you feel in the brake pedal is the ABS cycling on the truck. Why the ABS is cycling can be for several reasons, usually a faulty sensor on the hub. When you feel the jutter, the ABS system faults and shuts off on the truck.

The ABS sensor wire is VERY, VERY delicate and shouldn't be pinched or kinked anywhere. Even if it's pinched during installation of the new hub assembly, it can ruin the ABS sensor wire. I would take a couple minutes and crawl under the truck and inspect both sensor wires. Make sure they don't look pinched anywhere. If they do, kick your mechanic's ass.
 

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The jutter you feel in the brake pedal is the ABS cycling on the truck. Why the ABS is cycling can be for several reasons, usually a faulty sensor on the hub. When you feel the jutter, the ABS system faults and shuts off on the truck.

The ABS sensor wire is VERY, VERY delicate and shouldn't be pinched or kinked anywhere. Even if it's pinched during installation of the new hub assembly, it can ruin the ABS sensor wire. I would take a couple minutes and crawl under the truck and inspect both sensor wires. Make sure they don't look pinched anywhere. If they do, kick your mechanic's ass.
What he said....

The sensor design works as it is, but they could have chosen to run a stouter cable along the upper arms down to the immediate vicinity of the sensor, with a connector there at or on the sensor itself. That way the cable could be replaced without pulling the hub or the sensor.

Can you not just replace the sensor itself to save pulling the hub?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys. You just more or less confirmed my thoughts. I've already looked at that side and the wire doesn't look kinked. I'll call Rock and get a replacement wheel hub. I'll probably do it myself since I saw someone do a vid of a Wheel rotor replacement on a 2007 Xtreme. Looks like an identical setup to mine.
 

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What he said....

The sensor design works as it is, but they could have chosen to run a stouter cable along the upper arms down to the immediate vicinity of the sensor, with a connector there at or on the sensor itself. That way the cable could be replaced without pulling the hub or the sensor.

Can you not just replace the sensor itself to save pulling the hub?
Its possible...but if its the sensor ...and not a pinched cable...it would be better to just replace the whole hub with sensor under warranty as the hub has to be out anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Its possible...but if its the sensor ...and not a pinched cable...it would be better to just replace the whole hub with sensor under warranty as the hub has to be out anyways.
That's the plan, since the replacement hub already came with the wheel speed sensor installed. Just did the automated return on Rock's website. Let's see how this all works. First time returning something to them.
 

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Its possible...but if its the sensor ...and not a pinched cable...it would be better to just replace the whole hub with sensor under warranty as the hub has to be out anyways.
Didn't realize that... I assumed it possible to just pull and replace the sensor with the hub in place.
Didn't even walk the 15 feet to where my new hubs are sitting in the box to take a look.
 

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What everyone else said! The reason that the "jutter" stops after you get the ABS light is because, when the DTC sets, it deactivates the ABS system.
 

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Similar issue but I am using timmkin wheel bearings with sensors from rockauto. Mine always gives me a bad right abs sensor.

I am on my 3 setup and just got sick of dealing with it and pulled the abs fuse. Covered the two light in the gauge cluster and clear the dic upon start up each time.

Truck has better braking without the abs and I feel better not using a flawed abs setup.

My truck is a 06 Xtream.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Similar issue but I am using timmkin wheel bearings with sensors from rockauto. Mine always gives me a bad right abs sensor.

I am on my 3 setup and just got sick of dealing with it and pulled the abs fuse. Covered the two light in the gauge cluster and clear the dic upon start up each time.

Truck has better braking without the abs and I feel better not using a flawed abs setup.

My truck is a 06 Xtream.
Wow man. Hoping I don't have to go through the same deal. Did the ABS sensors come installed on the Timkins? I know you probably don't want to deal with this, but did you ever call the mfr about this?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Another thought just sprang up. I remember when I first looked at Rock's selection, and the ACDelco speed sensors said something about being VIN Dependant. Can anyone chime in on this? Should everybody just order the OEM speed sensor for whatever wheel bearing hub they use?
 

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Similar issue but I am using timmkin wheel bearings with sensors from rockauto. Mine always gives me a bad right abs sensor.

I am on my 3 setup ...
You've replaced the hub assembly TWICE after the initial installation and still have a bad sensor?


Someone educate me here please if you would... I have not performed a hub replacement.
What prevents changing only the sensor? Is it just not accessible with the hub mounted?
I realize you must remove the calipers at least.
 

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I replaced the intire wheel bearing with preinstalled abs sensor. From timkins and bought from rockauto.

I changed the stock one out. Replaced it with the timkins setup.

The first one got the abs code. Got a new one and got the same code again. Replaced with a third one got the same code again. Then gave up and pulled the abs fuse.

The last time was scary as I was hauling a fully loaded dubble axle Tralier from uhaul and the abs decided to act up and lock up the brake pedal I had a red light ahead of me and could not stop. Got lucky and mashed the pedal almost through the floor and then I got brakes.

Never again this is a bad abs setup and braking is better without the abs.
 

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...Someone educate me here please if you would... I have not performed a hub replacement. What prevents changing only the sensor? Is it just not accessible with the hub mounted? I realize you must remove the calipers at least.

Nevermind, I see now.
In case anyone revisits this thread..
 

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The likely hood of getting 3 bad wheels sensors is almost as likely as winning Powerball!

Unless you have a Tech II or better scanner, you will not actually know whats giving you that ABS light. There are other parts within the ABS system that can fail. I would tell all of you that are having these issues to get a legit scan done......yes, it will cost you a couple bucks.....but its better then replacing the same part numerous times with the same result
 

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The first three scans were all done with a high end snapon scan tool. I can't remember the name.

And the last scan done was done by a friend that works at gm with the techII . And all it keeps showing a bad abs sensor. I will look into it before I sell the truck.
 

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I would have to guess that a failure of/damage to the cable from the ABS control unit out to the wheel assembly might show up in a scan as a bad ABS sensor..

Just guessing, as I don't know how that wiring is routed to the wheel/hub area.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So hey everyone. Just wanted to let you know the new/warranty Raybestos hub did the trick. To anyone interested, this was kind of weird. The new hub (same part#, mind you, looked quite a bit different from the one I swapped out. First off, the wheel hub lugs were the brass color of the stock lug nuts, where the one I took off were oxidized black. The ABS sensor wire was about 4 times thicker too, and routed with (close to) the stock sensor assembly with bolt on strain reliefs going to the upper arm. After a couple double up fail attempts at re-assembly (first time for me) everything worked without a hitch. No more jutter at the get go, and no more ABS lights.. Really thinking, since I don't have a tech II, I might pick one up just in case this hassle starts up again. Want to thank y'all for your help here.
FastOne, I'm thinking Rick crew may be on to something here. Did you ever ohm out the cable going to your ABS computer? May be the problem.
 
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