[redrocker652002]

Hey guys, have not been around much, but you guys were really helpful on the last problem, so I figured I would pop in and ask. The other day I was bringing my son to school and the truck gave me a signal and FLUID came up over the odometer. I looked in the owner manual and it said the brakd fluid is low, and sure enough it is. It has almost 80k on it and has never had a brake job. I work nights and it is supposed to be wet and crummy the next few days. So, my question is simple, how tough is it to do the brakes on this truck? I am a bit of a weekend warrior and have built and done brakes in the past, but the last time I did them on my wife's Blazer they were jacked up. The mechanic I use said it was not anything I did, but I just don't want to deal with another double dip. Not as concerned about the fronts, as they are disc and usually just a couple of allen bolts and I am done. It is more the rears as they are drums. Any suggestions would be awsome, and links would be even better.


Thanks all, Have a great day.

Redrocker

 

[GMFanatic]

Hello,

I have done front wheel hubs on my truck before and I can tell you that they must come off as wheel as the brake rotors. The pads are insanely easy to do, but calipers are just a simple rebuild. When I took the rotor/hub off I had to get a hub/axle puller in order to get it out. Also, when you remove the hub you need to be really careful with the abs sensor and wires. Search: Wheel hub change or something along those lines and you will see how to do it. It can be done by the weekend warrior, but it is a little bit of a bitch and can mess some things up.

 

[redrocker652002]

Hello,

I have done front wheel hubs on my truck before and I can tell you that they must come off as wheel as the brake rotors. The pads are insanely easy to do, but calipers are just a simple rebuild. When I took the rotor/hub off I had to get a hub/axle puller in order to get it out. Also, when you remove the hub you need to be really careful with the abs sensor and wires. Search: Wheel hub change or something along those lines and you will see how to do it. It can be done by the weekend warrior, but it is a little bit of a bitch and can mess some things up.

Wow, so it is not just an easy pull the caliper off, replace the pads and put the caliper back and tighten? Looks a little more intense, so a call to my mechanic may be in order.

Thanks for the info, I appreciate it.

 

[Uncanny355]

If the rotors are in good shape (even wear, no lip) you should be ok to just change the pads. Two 13 mm bolts let me see if I can find a how to

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[Uncanny355]

http://www.355nation.net/forum/showthread.php?t=43423

Here is the how to for the full job if the rotors need replacing as well. I know a lot of people don't believe in ( pad slapping) just replacing the pads but I'm not one to replace a rotor if it's I n good shape

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[08Canyon]

Calipers come of fast and easily. Push the pistons back, insert new pads, reinstall assembly. Take truck to a shop that can turn rotors while mounted to the vehicle. It's more expensive than traditional machining, but also it's easier for them to do. And you.

If you want a perfectly matched pad/rotor I'd do this. If your pads are factory and thin, you should be hitting the squeaker. I'm hitting mine a6 65,000 miles. I pulled the pads off 2 weeks ago, bent the metal tab (squeaker) and reinstalled until I get around to pads. If it's not squeaking, then your pads are not at the end of their life yet. Fluid may be low because pads are GETTING thinner though. A little bit of brake fluid could do the trick. Don't add too much though...otherwise it may over flow when you push back the pistons in the caliper.

 

[Jesse]

The hardest part on the rears is going to be pulling the drum off and getting the E brake cable back on. It's a pain and will take many cuss words and a needle nose toss competition. Other than that it's pretty straight forward.

 

[seffieldvillage]

if you do the job be shore to open the bleeder before you push the pads back. other wise you could mess up the abs unit. you cant push the brake fuild back in to the abs unit. that would costly just a warning

 

[royrjs]

The hardest part on the rears is going to be pulling the drum off and getting the E brake cable back on. It's a pain and will take many cuss words and a needle nose toss competition. Other than that it's pretty straight forward.

I did them yesterday. F*ck, d*mn it, f*ck again, and the list continues.

But it takes an hour, an hour and a half to change the rears, cursing included.

 

[seffieldvillage]

just have a case of your beer ready. you will need it:drinking28:

 

[redrocker652002]

Thanks all for the replies. I have not heard any squealing from the wear indicators yet, but at 80K I am sure the pads must be pretty thin. I work graveyards and weekends, and here in the SF Bay area, they are calling for rain on all my days off. I know the pads are easy, I have done alot of them, but having to pull rotors and the ABS stuff kinda worries me. I am going to call my mechanic and see how much they want to do it. Just another shift or two of overtime. LOL.

I went out and added some fluid and just did a quick visual around the wheels, no fluid leaks at the connections where the brake lines meet the calipers or the backing plates. No fluid under the car and the metering blocks are all dry. I think it is a case of just needed a bit of normal service. Just not sure I have the time to do it right now, and I hate to let it go too far.

Thanks again guys, an have a great day. Gonna go back to bed and try and get another hour or two sleep before my shift starts.

Redrocker.

 

[theAce88]

if you do the job be shore to open the bleeder before you push the pads back. other wise you could mess up the abs unit. you cant push the brake fuild back in to the abs unit. that would costly just a warning

ive done my front brakes 5 times and have always used a c-clamp to push the pistons back, like i showed in that how-to, and I've never had an issue with the abs because of this. Maybe an intermittent issue from one truck to the next?

 

[redrocker652002]

Well, I called the mechanic, and for about 400.00 he will do all the brakes, turn everything and get it all worked out. Just so long as there are no other problems, he said it should be done in a day.

I am going to go that route. By the time I buy all the stuff I need, get all the tools, and try and beat the rain, it is worth it for me to let somebody else do it.

Thanks guys.

 

[redrocker652002]

ive done my front brakes 5 times and have always used a c-clamp to push the pistons back, like i showed in that how-to, and I've never had an issue with the abs because of this. Maybe an intermittent issue from one truck to the next?

I have always done the same thing, C clamp, a small piece of wood across the piston and push. LOL. But hey, I don't know that much about all this new fangled stuff.

 

[08Canyon]

Why don't you inspect your brakes first to be sure they need replacement?


Also, can anybody confirm truth to not pushing back the piston on our system? I'm going to be replacing pads soon.....last I want is to be one of the horror stories of having ABS problems.

 

[1BADI5]

If you need any brake parts let me know.

I have new calipers, pads and shoes ready to ship

 

[theAce88]

Why don't you inspect your brakes first to be sure they need replacement?


Also, can anybody confirm truth to not pushing back the piston on our system? I'm going to be replacing pads soon.....last I want is to be one of the horror stories of having ABS problems.

Like said, 5 times and I've never had an abs problem. I think abs problems come from setting the hub down on the abs sensor or catching the cable on the spindle when you're taking it off (when you're changing your rotors too), not from pushing the pistons back in.

 

[redrocker652002]

Why don't you inspect your brakes first to be sure they need replacement?


Also, can anybody confirm truth to not pushing back the piston on our system? I'm going to be replacing pads soon.....last I want is to be one of the horror stories of having ABS problems.

I would, but I work graveyards and only have really one day off this week. It is supposed to rain from Wed afternoon to Saturday sometime, and for 65.00 I will let the mechanic do it. I need to sleep at some point as well. LOL.

If I had the time, I would do it no problem, I just don't have the time right now to deal with it.

 

[redrocker652002]

If you need any brake parts let me know.

I have new calipers, pads and shoes ready to ship

Thanks alot for the offer, but I don't think I have the time to wait. I want to get this done and have the truck back on the road as soon as possible. With the inclement weather I cannot take the motorcycle around, so I need the truck.

Again, thanks for the offer though, if I had more time I would take you up on it.

 

[08Canyon]

I would, but I work graveyards and only have really one day off this week. It is supposed to rain from Wed afternoon to Saturday sometime, and for 65.00 I will let the mechanic do it. I need to sleep at some point as well. LOL.

If I had the time, I would do it no problem, I just don't have the time right now to deal with it.

That's cool.

I just want you to be aware that just becaue you have have miles you should not assume you need brakes. Many people get over 100,000 on factory fronts. I need to check my passenger side, I'm not convinced my pads wore evenly. Not a t 65,000 and one side is worn out.

It just sounded odd that you assume you have worn out pads and are willing to drive it in for a $600 brake job on parts you don't know if you even need. Figured 15 minutes pulling a wheel to inspect is a little bit cheaper.
For peace of mind, your approach is right.

I wish I could get a couple of months out of mine - I want to get rid of the truck in spring, hate to put money into it before trading.