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252,000+ Miles
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So, as many people may know, my truck has 10 winters on it, and 227,000+ miles.

Lots of rusted stuff underneath I'm dealing with, or just replacing outright. Frame members and body panels are all in good shape, but a arms and leafs are shot, along with some other stuff. Since lifting will put more stress on those parts (and some need bushings etc) I decided to replace them.

I want to make sure I have everything I need.

I ordered:
Rancho 4" lift with RS5000 shocks
2 -1600lb spring rate leaf packs for our trucks by General Spring (5 leaf, 52"x2.5" pack, 2" thick)
4 - 5/8"x8"x3-1/4" round U Bolts, nuts & washers
2 - New OEM Leaf Spring Plates to drill from 9/16" to 5/8" for upgraded U Bolts
2 -New OEM Sized Rear Shackles by General Spring w/hardware (not sure how much lift the springs will give, if any)
2 - new 76mm Z71 rear bump stops (old ones dryrotted/rusted away)
2 - new front jounce bumper/bump stops (old ones dryrotting but still there)
1 - Mayhem Metal Works steering rack mount upgrade kit w/bushings

I plan to order
2 - V8 Torsion Bars
2 - New OEM Z71 Lower A Arms w/balljoints
2 - New Torsion Keys, Cam Bolts & Nuts
2 - Adjustable Lift Shackles (once I install the leaf packs at OEM height to see what I really need)
2 - New Upper A Arms (Slick & Dirty's is the plan at the moment)
Moog Inner & Outer Tierod Ends
Moog poly LCA bushings
Energy Suspension 1-1/16 Swaybar bushings

The Questions:

What am I missing/do I need to order/should I order in addition to the above? I like go big or go home, and do it once, do it right. Should I replace the caster/camber kits since they are cheap and coming off anyway?

For those that have installed this lift themselves, what parts on the truck now that get re-used (other than bump stops, got that covered) do I need to look at replacing before the lift goes on, or during the lift process that isn't in my above list of parts?

I currently run 31x10.5r15 Duratracs on Soft 8's 15x8 w/4" backspace. Do I need to upgrade to a 16" or 17" rim right away, or will my 15's fit for the time being? (yes, i know they will look small, but I'm still @ 3.73)

If I'm only doing the 4" lift with a minor TB crank to fit 33x11.5's, is making other front end mods to increase front travel worth it? I have no plans to body lift ever, since I carry some pretty heavy stuff in the back of the truck with semi-regularity.

And finally, I have no intent to go higher after this is on. I don't want to SOA or SAS nor do I want to notch my frame for my driveshaft. I just want some xtra clearance for offroading, but I'm not as hardcore as some here about it.

Thanks!
 

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Your set on the right path, but why do you want to purchase the entire lower control arm new when you can just buy the bushings for it and ball joints??

I would save money by just buying the new bushings and balljoints for them, and putting that money towards the Mayhem Steering Rack kit, if you dont already have one...

Upgrading the Uppar A-arm is really worth it, you have two options, either the one you mentioned or the Michigan Metal Works (i have this one), cant go wrong with either...

Yes, replace the camber/caster kits.. your aligner will thank you tons for it, they are cheap and its worth it.

For now you will be good with those rancho shocks your getting with the kit, but to take full advantage of the new capabilities of the upper A-arm, you may want to consider upgrading to longer and better bilstein shocks in the future...

also, why are you getting new-oem shackles?? why not just install the new springs your are purchasing with the supplied shackles in the rancho lift kit and see where that puts you as far as lift...

those 15" rims you have right now will fit without problems with those tires you have.. if you go to a 33x12.50R15 tire you might rub on the upper ball joints.
 

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252,000+ Miles
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Your set on the right path, but why do you want to purchase the entire lower control arm new when you can just buy the bushings for it and ball joints??
10 years of salted upstate NY winters and 227,000 miles. They are rusted beyond belief (just check some of the pics in my build thread).

I would save money by just buying the new bushings and balljoints for them, and putting that money towards the Mayhem Steering Rack kit, if you dont already have one...
Sitting in my garage in my mods pile already.

Upgrading the Uppar A-arm is really worth it, you have two options, either the one you mentioned or the Michigan Metal Works (i have this one), cant go wrong with either...
Ok good to know. I guess I'm supposed to cut the top bump stop plate right off the truck because it limits upper A-Arm travel? Do I get rid of the jounce bumper below it as well?

Yes, replace the camber/caster kits.. your aligner will thank you tons for it, they are cheap and its worth it.
I'll order them with the a-arms when the time comes. Thanks.

For now you will be good with those rancho shocks your getting with the kit, but to take full advantage of the new capabilities of the upper A-arm, you may want to consider upgrading to longer and better bilstein shocks in the future...
In my build thread I actually have plans for bilstein 5125's in the front and 5165's in the back. My issue is I can't find the valving I want in the front in the correct size and don't want to pay a fortune for custom valving. $200+ per shock in the rear is going to be hard enough for the wife to swallow.

also, why are you getting new-oem shackles?? why not just install the new springs your are purchasing with the supplied shackles in the rancho lift kit and see where that puts you as far as lift...
mostly because I'm planning to replace the leaf packs first before the lift goes on to correct some damage I may have caused from carrying too much weight too many times. As in...33 sheets of OSB one time, and 6-2x10x18's, 10-2x10x16's, 32-2x10x10's and a few bags of concrete to hold it all down, with some serious straps..no rack. I need it stock to make sure there aren't other issues I can't see, and I want to make sure my starting point is recorded for the sake of the build. One of the shackles is bent and pinching the shock slightly, so it needs to go.

those 15" rims you have right now will fit without problems with those tires you have.. if you go to a 33x12.50R15 tire you might rub on the upper ball joints.
Sweet! My plan is actually to go to a 33x11.5r17 at some point, but. I have to prioritize...right now the priority is not getting divorced, lol.

Thanks dude!
 

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Norse god of maintenance
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If you're hauling a lot of stuff, the 09+ brake upgrade might be worth looking into. You'd need to get 16's or bigger.
 

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i've had the MOOG tie rods... pretty good, love that you can grease em but i'd just go Slick & Dirty tie rods man. way bigger difference. i know there's a price difference but these will not break. and you can adjust toe right there on a driveway if you need to...
 

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you dont need to cut anything for the new upper control arms, the design/shape of the new upper arm is what allows it to achieve more droop than the stock arm.

what is it about the valving on the bilsteins that you dont like? I have 5150s in the rear and 5165s in the front, and its as perfect as it can be, at least for me haha, no custom valving.

About the tie-rods, i run MOOG tie-rods... ive put my truck through hell, ive broken steering racks, cracked stock upper control arms, busted many skyjacker shocks, broken more sway bar links than i care to count (i now run with no sway bar since upgrading to the V8 t-bars).. and the list goes on. I would have a hard time believing that someone on here with a torsion-bar 355 has put their front end through more abuse than mine...

that being said, ive never had a tie-rod failure, yes.. the Slick & Dirty are an awesome design, and they are on my bucket list as well... but their are for more things that need priority before droping close to a grand on a set of tie-rods..

of course, in my case it helps that i have the 4" skyjacker lift kit and the new sub-frame and knuckles keep all the angles happy, if your running on stock subframe with too much crank and some crazy angles, then yes... you need the Slick & Dirty rods just to be Safe. :)
 

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252,000+ Miles
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Discussion Starter #10
In the slick & dirty post they told me I cut it off :/.

Anyway, good to know.

As far as the valving, I'm looking at 5125's in the front and 5165's in the rear @255/70. The 5125's in the same travel as the rancho lift shocks (7" travel) don't come in 255/70.

Where did you stick your reservoirs on your fronts? Got pics?
 

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In the slick & dirty post they told me I cut it off :/.

Anyway, good to know.

As far as the valving, I'm looking at 5125's in the front and 5165's in the rear @255/70. The 5125's in the same travel as the rancho lift shocks (7" travel) don't come in 255/70.

Where did you stick your reservoirs on your fronts? Got pics?
go on my build thread, many pics!

255/70 for the front is a bit too soft IMO... im running that in the rear which i feel is perfect on my leaf springs, and 366/240 valving on the front, on V8 T-Bars... the truck feels PERFECT. no harshness on the rough, soaks up the big bumps beautifully, and extremely more stable at high-way speeds (and im not running front sway bar)...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
go on my build thread, many pics!

255/70 for the front is a bit too soft IMO... im running that in the rear which i feel is perfect on my leaf springs, and 366/240 valving on the front, on V8 T-Bars... the truck feels PERFECT. no harshness on the rough, soaks up the big bumps beautifully, and extremely more stable at high-way speeds (and im not running front sway bar)...
I was looking at something similar myself. 366/240 in a 5125 is like 6.65" of travel. Think that's enough for a tbar front end?

who or what is DnD ???
Dents n Dings
 

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I would strongly recommend the 09+ brake upgrade while you have the front end apart. It's tough enough to get the front hubs out of the steering knuckles, so I'd consider doing new hubs along with the larger brakes while doing the lift. The first gen brakes feel pretty taxed with the larger tires.
Also, I recommend reinstalling the bump stops with the new lift. They're an important part of both a progressive suspension rate and body-roll control. The higher up you go the more you'll start caring about body roll.
 

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I'd add air bags to the rear suspension to aid in lifting the weight you put in the bed. There's a how-to write up for it. That way you won't sag as much or at all!

Add the 2" lift torsion keys. And a 1.5" body lift would be awesome
 

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Discussion Starter #18
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