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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I did a ball joint flip and cranked my torsion bars up for,about two inches of lift.

I took it to get an alignment today and they said they couldn't do it because of the crank.

And "that's not the way to lift a truck, that's what lift kits are for"

But I feel like that's an excuse because aftermarket keys would still move the front suspension components the same. And I've never heard of anyone having this problem.

So do I just need to find another shop, or back off on the crank?
 

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Did they perform the alignment and it wasn't in spec, or did they turn you away when you told them it was torsion bar cranked?

I don't understand your comment about 'aftermarket keys'. I mean I don't understand the relevancy in this thread to say that. What did I miss?
 

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had mine done after my tb crank and bj flip they said it was as close as they could get it but on the way home my steering wheel was at at 90° angle and drove like shit, decided to just do it myself and have had no problems with tire wear, drives 100% better
 

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had mine done after my tb crank and bj flip they said it was as close as they could get it but on the way home my steering wheel was at at 90° angle and drove like shit, decided to just do it myself and have had no problems with tire wear, drives 100% better
90-degrees? Really? Seems a bit exaggerated....
That means the bottom of your steering wheel was really turned all the way to a 3:00 position? Your turn signal's didn't work then right?

Are you a front end tech and have access to an alignment machine?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
They didn't even try. He basically told me to put it back to stock or go buy a lift kit. A lift kit for this height will have new keys for the front, but all the other components (a-arms, ball joints, etc) would be affected the same for keys or crank.
 

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They didn't even try. He basically told me to put it back to stock or go buy a lift kit. A lift kit for this height will have new keys for the front, but all the other components (a-arms, ball joints, etc) would be affected the same for keys or crank.
Yeah, go someplace else then. They idn't want to fuss with a TB lifted truck because they are tricky sometimes.

FYI: Keys are not a lift kit. The shop should have been referring to something you'd buy from Rancho or Skyjacker. With a lift kit, you are not adjusting ride height with torsion bars. That's why lift kits can honestly advertise "maintaines factory ride".
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah, go someplace else then. They idn't want to fuss with a TB lifted truck because they are tricky sometimes.

FYI: Keys are not a lift kit. The shop should have been referring to something you'd buy from Rancho or Skyjacker. With a lift kit, you are not adjusting ride height with torsion bars. That's why lift kits can honestly advertise "maintaines factory ride".
Yeah. That's why I decided not to buy them.

I should be ready to go to a rancho 4" kit by the end of the year. But this has got to work until then.
 

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Yeah. That's why I decided not to buy them.

I should be ready to go to a rancho 4" kit by the end of the year. But this has got to work until then.
Okay. I wanted to clarify that you didn't go out and buy keys in the future thinking you were getting 'a lift kit'. Cool.
only that much when i was driving,but its a straight shot from salisaw to stilwell, not a front end tech but do have two tape measures and square tube, but i agree they didnt try
Well, that isn't quite and alignment, but it is probably closer than it was after the crank. Just keep an eye on your inner/outer edge tire wear. Without either the camber or caster (I always get confused) adjustments the tire is probably not square to the road surface. But it's at least pointing mostly straight with tie rod adjustments.
 

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I have a Skyjacker kit, and still, when I take it in for an alignment, shops are a little scared of it.

But, I just tell them to do their best, get to work, and let me know if there are any problems. Once they actually start working on it, they are able to get the alignment within the specs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Camber is what you're talking about. And you actually want it slightly negative /\ so that the wheels stand straight up when cornering.

Toe affects tire wear the most. If it's out then your wheels aren't pointing straight ahead.
 

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They might not be full of it. When you crank the TBs your suspension geometry isn't even close to where the engineers designed it to sit. Often, an alignment shop with get it as close as they can and call it good. Other shops will tell you the truth and say they can't do it properly. Also, just because you flipped your upper BJ doesn't mean you'll be able to align it. Either way it is hard on CV joints, steerings racks, BJs etc. This is why they suggested you get a real subframe lift as it maintains factory geometry. It might cost more at the onset, but it is good advice in the long run. And don't forget, you lose your downward suspension travel with a TB crank.
 

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I've got mine cranked up and got it aligned by a gm dealer. My normal mechanic was being a pain in the ass about it so I'm never going there again. It was a whole debacle... The dealership got it into spec with no issues.
 
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