Chevrolet Colorado & GMC Canyon Forum banner

1 - 20 of 42 Posts

·
You Smell That?!?!
Joined
·
6,216 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am going to attempt to change my front axle seal on my '04 Gmc Canyon CC Z71.
anyone got any tips\pointers who has done this before?
the labor is ~$300 to install a $10 seal, so that is the logic behind it. I have a chiltons manual. Anyone with access to the GM manual with pics would be appreciated.
and what is a slidehammer\adapter tool?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,615 Posts
i'd say only attempt this if you have all the proper tools and knowledge. replacing the cv-joint took my buddy and i about 2-3hrs and a 6pack. seal shouldnt take much longer than that. luckily you live in the south and rust issues arent a big thing for you lol

dont use a slidehammer to get the hub off. from what i've heard i'll screw shit up. go borrow a hub puller from advance auto parts or something. makes the job 100x easier.
 

·
You Smell That?!?!
Joined
·
6,216 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
thanks for the tip :thumbup:
*adds that too list of things needed*

my buddy is very mechanically inclined....i am too, for the most part....
i just dont like trying things for the 1st time without someone to help..
you know 2 sets of eyes is better than one...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,817 Posts
Put the seal in the freezer overnight shrinks the tolerances) warm up the axle housing with a heat gun(expands the tolerances) Done this method for yeays and it helps. once you get the axle shaft off use a seal driving tool. Keep it centred and don't get it cock eyed. One smart whack should do it. Until you learn the proper technique to drive them in straight, practice with the old seal. If they go in crooked they tend to fail quickly. As well it doesn't hurt to clean the surface to be sealed with a fine emery cloth.
 

·
You Smell That?!?!
Joined
·
6,216 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
figured i'd use a big socket to drive the new seal in....

thanx guys :thumbup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
441 Posts
dude its stupid simple. i changed wojo's before sesm and it litterally took 45 minutes..44 of them were taking the knuckle off and putting it back on.

just disconnect your upper and lower ball joints and your tie rod. get the knuckle out of your way, yank the shaft out. use a large screw driver to pry the old seal out and use the same socket you took the axle nut off with to drive the new seal in. dont go taking the hub out of the knuckle, that will take much more time then just poping the ball joints out; plus then you dont have to worry about messing up the abs sensor that everyone seems to fuck when they take the hub out.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,518 Posts
just disconnect your upper and lower ball joints and your tie rod. get the knuckle out of your way, yank the shaft out. use a large screw driver to pry the old seal out and use the same socket you took the axle nut off with to drive the new seal in. dont go taking the hub out of the knuckle, that will take much more time then just poping the ball joints out; plus then you dont have to worry about messing up the abs sensor that everyone seems to fuck when they take the hub out.
X2 :thumbup:
 

·
You Smell That?!?!
Joined
·
6,216 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
thanks aaron, that simplified the whole fucking process....i thought i was gonna hav eto tear the whole shit apart.... that woulda made me :hulk:

my sensors are fucked already evidently....happened at SESM when we hooked the radio up.
evidently something arc'ed off of something and shorted teh sensors, both of them :shrug:
truck still drives the same and the ABS does work so i aint worried about it...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,817 Posts
mmmmm, good old metric sockets. Can you guys by them in the USA. LOL
I have had metric sockets most of my life, and there is always some monkey coming up with new ones, if sae was set up like metric, there'd be a 33/64 between 1/2 and 9/16.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,615 Posts
ooo yeah sensors is a good call. i fucked one of mine when we ran new brakes about a month ago. abs light hasnt shut up since but i dont feel like fixing it LOL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,558 Posts
Tools Required
• J 2619-01 Slide Hammer

• J 8092 Universal Drive Handle 3/4 Inch - 10

• J 21426 Extension Housing Seal Installer

• J 29369-2 Bushing and Bearing Remover 2-3 inch

• J 45232 Differential Bearing Adjuster Needle Bearing Installer - Left

Removal Procedure




•Remove the wheel drive shaft. Refer to Wheel Drive Shaft Replacement .




•Remove the swaybar link from the lower control arm. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Link Replacement .




•Using the J 29369-2 (2) and the J 2619-01 (1) , remove the axle seal.




•Using the J 29369-2 (1) and the J 2619-01 (2) , remove the axle bearing.
Installation Procedure




•Position the axle bearing in the intermediate housing.
•Using the J 45232 (1) and the J 8092 (2) , install the axle bearing.




•Using the J 21426 (1) , install the axle seal.




•Install the wheel drive shaft. Refer to Wheel Drive Shaft Replacement .




•Install the swaybar link to the lower control arm. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Link Replacement .
•Check in fluid level.
 

·
You Smell That?!?!
Joined
·
6,216 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
thanks tim...should be doing this next weekend, if i don't get called out for work, thats if the parts come, should be in by midweek next week everything was in stock
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
18,001 Posts
thanks tim...should be doing this next weekend, if i don't get called out for work, thats if the parts come, should be in by midweek next week everything was in stock
when you get finished practicing on yours I'll will let you do mine. :thumbup:
 

·
You Smell That?!?!
Joined
·
6,216 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
sure thing bud,
u dont have a 36mm socket you could mail to me?

i'll send it back when im done!!!
 
1 - 20 of 42 Posts
Top