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Hi all,
So still struggling w/ my blower motor.. I’ve seen many of the post about the resistor/harness etc. I looked at my ground block on the right (passenger) side. It looked ok..No burning corrosion inside. I sanded the bolt connection and reconnected….
Have to look, but just found out there may be another ground block on left side near battery? Is this part of the fan ckt.?

My blower motor will not work at all, NOT on 1, 2, 3, or 4. However when I turn the selector from 0 to 1 I read 12v at the plug that goes into the motor. When I change to 2, 3, or 4 still reads 12V. When I turn it off, it changes to 0 V. I assumed a bad fan, but it’s not. Was thinking a ground issue so I jumpered the ground side of the connector directly to ground under the dash. The motor comes on, but runs on high and the switch has not effect… on/off or speed. Motor just runs. Guess I need to find a schematic to see why this happens.

Any one have other ideas? I’m tired of this truck. My A/C stopped working as well. At first it would blow the fuse every so often when AC was on…not fuse is fine, but AC (including light on switch) never comes on. Not sure if they are related but this truck has many electrical gremlins….

Next step is I plan on trying to check the selector switch. How to get that out? Hoping it comes out simply..not looking forward to a dash tear out… Anyone have switch trouble shooting advice?

Thanks and any ideas or suggestions are welcomed…:drinking28:
 

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You mention it's not the resistor but you don't mention if you changed it out or not. Sounds like the motor is good because it runs when you jumped the ground wire. The ground for it is on the passenger side fender behind the air box.
 

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hello. i had the same problem. remove you glove box and you will see a connector. unplug it and ill bet the brown wire/connector is burnt. i just jumped the brown wire with a but end splice.
 

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Open your passenger side door. Remove the plastic trim right on the floor. Under where the door would be when it's closed. Then remove that kick panel under the dash. There should be a big blue plug behind there. Unplug it and check the connections. I think it's the brown wire. It melted in that plug and caused it to lose connection. I bypassed the plug and it solved my problem.
 

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Maybe the blower motor is toast
 

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:welcome:

Power goes from the fuse directly to the blower. All control of the blower operation is done using the ground side of the circuit. You should always have 12 volts at the brown wire of the blower connector. You won't get 12 volts by metering the brown and orange leads, if the ground is defective.

There aren't any HVAC grounds in the ground point on the left side. The compressor ground is G103, on the engine block.

If you don't have any blower operation at all, it is most likely something other than the resistor module. The high speed circuit bypasses the resistor module.

As mentioned above, there are other connectors, in the circuit, that have been problematic. One mounted on the HVAC case, behind the glove box, and one behind the right kick panel. They are both inline connectors.

To get access to the HVAC Control Module you will have to remove the trim panel around it. It is just retained by some spring clips, so you can just pry it off with a flat tool.

Probably a good idea to resolve the issue regarding the blower, then come back and see if we can help with the cooling problem.
 

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Open your passenger side door. Remove the plastic trim right on the floor. Under where the door would be when it's closed. Then remove that kick panel under the dash. There should be a big blue plug behind there. Unplug it and check the connections. I think it's the brown wire. It melted in that plug and caused it to lose connection. I bypassed the plug and it solved my problem.
This
 

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This sounds familiar. Guess I'm going to tear into mine here shortly. Turned the truck on last night, fan ran for about 4 seconds then just stopped completely. No fan on any speeds. I didn't have a chance to mess with it due to the rain last night, so here's hoping I can do something with it.
 

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Check the ground pack located next to your air filter along the passenger fender. This goes directly to the blower. Here is some images of it:

The blower motor ground ties into this ground splice. There is a member on CFans who works in the maintenance department for a company with a fleet of 355s.
After replacing numerous resistors and harnesses, he traced the schematics and found this ground. He ended up cleaning this ground on all the trucks and the blower motor issues ceased.

I removed the bolt holding the strap to the fender and lightly sanded the strap itself until I could see the brass. I then reinstalled with a stainless steel bolt and a star washer between the bolt head and the strap. Finally, I sealed it with a coat of touch up paint.

These pics show the location of the ground on the inside of the passenger fender behind the air cleaner. The first pic shows the air cleaner in place. In the last two pics, the air cleaner is removed for clarity.





 

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Alright, I am having the same issues covered in this thread. I have checked all of the connections covered here and sanded/cleaned up the ground behind the air box. The blower will come on but will typically shut off after a few seconds. I can sometimes get it to run for a while on lower speeds but if I try to turn it up it will cut off. As I said, all of the connectors look great and show no signs of being burnt. I am at a loss on this one. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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The connector is weak.
It was barely durable enough to make it off the factory floor into our hands.

-it's made of a soft nylon-based super-cheapo plastic.
-the connector is also not robust.. it's whimpy.
The pins in the connector don't make really tight metal-to-metal contact when the two halves go together. The soft whimpy plastic doesn't help them maintain what little alignment they have by design. That causes them to heat up with the current drawn by the fan.


Open the connector (separate the two halves, the male and the female connector ends).
Look carefully to see if they look loose to you,.. like take the butt of a small drill bit and see if the ends of the pins are all loosy-goosy.... Think when you were a kid and your teeth were ready to fall out.

With the two connector ends together, use a good LED flashlight and look as you gently bend against the connector halves. You can see how chitzy it is.

Now.... add the heat of the resistor(s), which didn't have to be there at the connector body... They coulda been mounted separate and apart from the connector.. Same as they did for years, on the firewall nearby or even better, into the wall of the AC/heater box so the incoming air would cool it.

That connector would eventually be a problem even without the resistor heat added in.
They all fail eventually.

Most members here have purchased the GM update kit for the blower pigtail.
I repaired my '05 with a soldering iron and 18 inches of 16-gauge wire.
(only to say here that I don't know anything about the factory fix. I've never seen it)

Haven't actually yet repaired my (current) '08. Winter's coming... it's on the list.

I went to the dealer when shopping for my low-miles '08 single-cab expecting the blower fault and looking for it, Got $1k discount off the purchase price for that. He didn't know what I knew.

.
 

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I don't know anything about the GM repair kit. I've never seen one.


From this thread though:
https://www.355nation.net/forum/how-lighting-electrical/6401-how-hvac-fan-motor-resistor-connector-replacement.html

I got these part-numbers:
Note:
The resistor needs to be purchased to complete the repair. You can either decide to splice in a replacement connector or replace the entire wiring harness.
Another option is to buy the resistor, connector and harness as a package. See photos below.

Resistor- p/n 15218254 $9.57*
Connector- p/n 15306069 $30.70*
Complete wiring harness - p/n 89019124 $23.52* (no splicing required)

Package deal (p/n PK15218254) $31.97

Maybe someone with experience using those parts can help here.
 

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btw, didn't want to give the impression that you should expect that the connector alone is 'bad'.


A resistor being used that way to reduce the speed of a small motor is gonna get warm/hot.
It's normal and expected. The problem isn't the resistors themselves. They're doing what they are supposed to do.
(those resistors are also pretty whimpy though...I would have wanted them to be twice the size/wattage )

The problem is the connector. The resistor being mounted to the connector just aggravates the problems caused by the whimpy connector. What I was trying to get across is that the connector could easily become unreliable over time even without the resistors being there.
(like if the resistors had been mounted on the firewall or kickpanel)
The (normal, expected) heat from the resistors just makes it worse and kinda tips it over the edge.
 

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Elect schematic located at: (from start page)
First Generation- Aesthetics- Electrical/Lighting/Security- 1st post: Electric schematics:
04-06 Canyon/Colorado= AC Heater.PDF
Note: I think the other years are wired very similar.
 

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Well, I ordered the replacement harness and resistor and got them changed out this afternoon. Still the same problem. It will not run on high (4) and will only run for a second on 3 before it shuts off and I have to completely turn the ac off. It will run on 1 for a while. I am suspecting heat to be the root cause but finding where it is causing the issue is my problem. Tomorrow morning I am going to try to splice the brown wire around the blue connector behind the kick panel. Any other places you can think of to check? I have pulled all of the connectors off and checked the for a little “wiggle” on the pins but couldn’t find anything that really stood out.
 

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I am just curious, I have tried searching on here for it, but does someone happen to have a circuit diagram for this? The blue plug looks fine but I’ve found once the ac cuts off I can wiggle that plug and it will come back on. None of the pins look out of the ordinary, but I have narrowed the problem down! I am just wondering which wires are which now.
 

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I've been a little delayed on getting my response on here but, I soldered a jumper wire (Brown Wire) around the blue connector under the kick panel and pulled the ground block behind the airfilter box completely apart. Even though it didn't look burnt or corroded i went ahead and buffed the pins with scotchbrite and gooped a pile of dye electric grease inside it and put it back together. So far the blower fan has been working perfectly! even on one day last week were the temperature got into the low 90's. thanks for the helkp and guidance! I will keep you posted if anything changes!:salute:
 

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Great info on this thread, thanks to all and apologies for highjacking this old thread but it is closest to my problem. For background this is my daughters 04 colorado 2wd z71 with an I5 and 181K.

To start, no blower at any speed. I have plus 12 at fan but not ground. Fan works when it has ground. It will run sometimes on it's own for 10 to 30 seconds intermittantly. When it does work, I have ground on the brown wire behind the glovebox and lower kick panel. When it does not I do not.

I have cleaned the bolt, removed paint, and checked/sanded both the bus/common side and molex side of the ground sp106 behind the air filter.

I replaced the resistor and 4 wire connector.

My main confusion is stuck on why would I be seeing ground on the brown wire when it works? My interpretation of the wiring diagram says it has nothing to do with the fan motor and more to do with the PCM telling the relay to turn on. Many have said the brown wire was key for ground but how? I only see a black wire on the ground buss and the wiring diagram which turns into a resistor reduced or bypassed ground straight to the fan motor.

What am I missing?

Thanks for your time.
 
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