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Well good afternoon 355nation. This account may be new to 355nation but I am not. I have an older account but I can't remember the name of it. So let me start off with, I have had this truck since 15K and May of 2007. I now have 127,000 miles on it and am the second owner.

To give a little background on this post and my situation. About 2 months ago I was out driving and I swear it sounded like I dropped a Duramax under the hood. I instantly looked at my scan gauge, where I saw my temp climbing and my volts drop. I knew my belt had went, I was a mile from a Oreillys where I decided to drive to. I reached about 245 degrees when I decided to cut the truck off and coast into the parking lot. When I opened the hood I saw the destruction. My belt decided to hang out behind the water pump pulley and in the process Sheared, yes, sheared all 4 water pump pulley bolts. At that point I said F'it and decided to call a tow truck.

That night I went on Amazon ordered gator back belt, fan clutch (It had gone bad as it wasn't kicking in at start up) Water pump because I knew it had gone through tons of stress) New tensioner and idler pulley and a new 180 stat. My old 190 I wanted to stay below 197 but didn't realize you guys hung out there a lot and didn't have much problem.

I had to order the water pump pulley and the bolts from stealership. I got those 2 days later. On a wednesday I reassembled my truck. Got it running, the temp was hanging around 209 and I figured my tstat was bad. Did the exchange thing with amazon and got the same result with the second 180 stat. I then came on here and did some looking around and figured since I had put new coolant in 2 times, cleaned my resivor. I don't buy the pre-diluteted. I buy it and mix it myself. Got distilled water the whole nine yards.

So Here I am. New stat, water pump, thermostat, coolant and my radiator was replaced 50,000 miles ago due to an accident.

I was in the drive through to get my wife some breakfast to surprise her (live mas) and I was watching my scan gauge in about 75 degree weather hit 219. Then when I took off the fan clutch kicked in and it cooled it down to 206 and the fan would then slow down and I sit at 209 driving, Even on interstate. The 209 doesn't concern me. I think the truck runs better at that hotter temp. But thats me. My concern is when it gets to 100 degrees and traffic on 98 I don't wanna be over heating.

Any help with this issue is greatly appreciated.
 

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I have heard a couple of guys mention that they had purchased thermostats that were advertised as 180°, but turned out to be opening at 195°. The only way you would be able to verify the opening temp of the installed one that you have, would be to remove it and heat it in a pan of water, measured with a thermometer. With that said, 209° is not that high and it probably would be best to just drive it and monitor the temp as the ambient temperature gets warmer. If you still have your OEM thermostat, check it to see if it operates normally. I know the instrument cluster temperature gage is not considered that accurate, but where on the scale does the needle sit when the engine is warmed up?
 

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Your temps are showing a 195 stat. The 180 stat is hard to come by and some place sell it still as a 180 when it has been changed to a 195.

My truck runs same temps as you posted. I think you will be fine.
 

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My gauge cluster sits at 3/4 mark. I do not use my gauge cluster for my temperature, I use my scan gauge II. I just get worried seeing around the 220 mark as I have had the scan gauge II since 2009. I have never seen over 213 on the hottest days. Cruzing 80mph I hold 209. Sitting in traffic and the drive thru this morning I have never got hot enough to have my fan clutch to kick in.
 

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Your temps are showing a 195 stat. The 180 stat is hard to come by and some place sell it still as a 180 when it has been changed to a 195.

My truck runs same temps as you posted. I think you will be fine.
Thank you very much, I just wanted to see what the Nation thought.
 

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Have you tried taking grill off and blowing the AC evap core flews out, and blowing the the radiator flews out, maybe Blow out in between the evap core and radiator? I di that to mine and the temp dropped down some. I do not have a scan guage or anything, but my needlre started sitting at a higher point on a regular basis. After cleaning it out good, the needle settled back in where it always sits.
 

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Have you tried taking grill off and blowing the AC evap core flews out, and blowing the the radiator flews out, maybe Blow out in between the evap core and radiator? I di that to mine and the temp dropped down some. I do not have a scan guage or anything, but my needlre started sitting at a higher point on a regular basis. After cleaning it out good, the needle settled back in where it always sits.
Great idea! I am going to give that a try! I will post results.
 

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When the belt let go, did it take out the radiator shroud? If not, did you install the shroud after you changed the water pump? Any damage to the radiator? i.e. bent fins, etc.

What brand is the waterpump? New or reman? I've had shitty luck so far with both O'Reilly and Autozone pumps. OEM one lasted me 100K, so far the Gates one I installed has been going on about 50K with no issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
When the belt let go, did it take out the radiator shroud? If not, did you install the shroud after you changed the water pump? Any damage to the radiator? i.e. bent fins, etc.

What brand is the waterpump? New or reman? I've had shitty luck so far with both O'Reilly and Autozone pumps. OEM one lasted me 100K, so far the Gates one I installed has been going on about 50K with no issues.
The shroud is back in there. The one that was in there was a auto zone one i put in after my accident (water pump). None of my fins where damaged the fan protected that. I put in a new Bosch water pump. This will be the 3rd in there. I had taken the factory one and replaced it right after my accident. Then I replaced my thermostat when I was throwing code for stuck open thermostat. The factory one. I would never reach operating temperature and it really ran like shit. I have noticed at these higher temps the truck seems to run better. I just don't like hearing that fan clutch kick on and hear that fan run on a 75 degree day.
 

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I use my edge insite for the readings also.

But my truck also has a big B&m tranny cooler in front of the rad. My truck is 2 wheel drive.

I was just towing my travle trailer a few weeks back with a/c running and outside temps at 77*F and the water temps were 203*f.

A over heat for our trucks is 250*F

So you would have a long way to go. I think you will be fine it took me a month to get used to the gauge needle running over half way mark. But we all know how dependable that gauge is.
 

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Running 30 degrees above the stat rating in 75 degree ambient doesn't make much sense/sound right. All kinds of crap can accumulate inside a rad in 50K miles drastically reducing it's ability to efficiently dissipate heat . The rad is the only component in the entire cooling system that's sole function is to dissipate heat. Since u have thrown some new parts at it (maybe not the right ones) and it's running toasty in cool ambient temps, I'd pull the rad, take it to a rad shop and have it "rodded out". Have u replaced the fan clutch?

FWIW, I to use a ScanGauge. I run a Stant #14077 170F t-stat. Today the ambient temp reading on the rear view mirror was 98F. Stopped in traffic running a/c the ScanGauge would creep up to 186F.....then drop and float around 178F-182F when moving +/-35 mph. Again, 30 degrees above the stat rating in very mild ambient temp doesn't sound right. The suggestion to test a stat in a pot of water using a thermometer is an excellent idea. The stat should be wide open at +/- 15 degrees above it's rating temp. A wide open stat is like no stat at all. A 180 stat should be wide open at +/-195 so if temp continues to rise another 15 degrees and the stat is wide open, something else in the cooling system is causing a problem. I would never install a new stat or re-install an old stat without testing it 1st. Tossing a stat into boiling water will tell u virtually nothing.....a stat is not exposed to boiling water inside the motor.
 

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219 degrees in 75-degree outdoor temps sound high to me.

My 2008 won't get that high unless it's 110 degrees and idling. I don't remember for sure, but I think it would sit around 210 (ultragauge). It will hold steady between 196-198 on the highway.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Running 30 degrees above the stat rating in 75 degree ambient doesn't make much sense/sound right. All kinds of crap can accumulate inside a rad in 50K miles drastically reducing it's ability to efficiently dissipate heat . The rad is the only component in the entire cooling system that's sole function is to dissipate heat. Since u have thrown some new parts at it (maybe not the right ones) and it's running toasty in cool ambient temps, I'd pull the rad, take it to a rad shop and have it "rodded out". Have u replaced the fan clutch?

FWIW, I to use a ScanGauge. I run a Stant #14077 170F t-stat. Today the ambient temp reading on the rear view mirror was 98F. Stopped in traffic running a/c the ScanGauge would creep up to 186F.....then drop and float around 178F-182F when moving +/-35 mph. Again, 30 degrees above the stat rating in very mild ambient temp doesn't sound right. The suggestion to test a stat in a pot of water using a thermometer is an excellent idea. The stat should be wide open at +/- 15 degrees above it's rating temp. A wide open stat is like no stat at all. A 180 stat should be wide open at +/-195 so if temp continues to rise another 15 degrees and the stat is wide open, something else in the cooling system is causing a problem. I would never install a new stat or re-install an old stat without testing it 1st. Tossing a stat into boiling water will tell u virtually nothing.....a stat is not exposed to boiling water inside the motor.
This is why I came on here. The part numbers all matched ones off rock auto. The only 2 components in the system is the radiator and the radiator cap. I am thinking of buying a new radiator. even though rodding it doesn't seem too complicated.
 

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219 degrees in 75-degree outdoor temps sound high to me.

My 2008 won't get that high unless it's 110 degrees and idling. I don't remember for sure, but I think it would sit around 210 (ultragauge). It will hold steady between 196-198 on the highway.
Yeah, scangauge is saying 209 on interstate. and 211-218 idling in traffic. My new fan clutch kicked in and it cools down.
 

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..........even though rodding it doesn't seem too complicated.
.......not complicated at all, for a rad shop. They have the tools/know how to separate the tanks from the core, clean/rod the core internally and re-attach the tanks to the core.
 

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203F coolant temp with a 195F stat is perfectly normal.....209F+ coolant temp with a 180F stat in 75F ambient is not.
 

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I'll try remembering to check mine. We're supposed to reach near 100 in the next few days. Today It didn't get over 190 on the drive to work, it might have been 70 degrees ambient then??
 

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Napa has good quality replacement radiators and they had the 180* thermostat about 8 months ago so they should still have it for our trucks. I had some temp problems after my bumper and supercharger install. So I swapped out the stock radiator since mine had some damage to the fins, a new waterpump, fan clutch, and thermostat these all dropped me back below the halfway mark when I was getting close to 3/4's on most drives beforehand.
 
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