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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was replacing a bad cylinder head on my '05 3.5 I5 Colorado. While reattaching the the timing chain, I cracked the camshaft tensioner guide rail on the intake side. The rubber part seems to be holding it together but its snapped right in the middle. If I don't replace it now will I regret it later on?

Also, I started to drop the oil pan to remove the front cover but after removing all the bolts it's still on there pretty good, am I missing something? Thanks.
 

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badlandindustries.com
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Ha im quite familiar with this. As for the oil pan you should have taken it off to remove the one bolt on the pick up tube for the oil pump. Did you remove the bolts on the transmission that bolt into the oil pan? Use several pry bars to gently pull the pan off.

As for the guide. Yes you need to replace it. I know I have one left over from my swap. I'll look to see what side it is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Removed the bolts around the pan and the ones located inside the flywheel access hole. Are those the only ones? That would be awesome if you had an extra guide, I could only find one in a timing kit and the cheapest kit I found was around $120.

ETA: Looks like I got all the bolts off. I used the screw jack holes to release the rtv.
 

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Okay, I'm down south.

I've only taken the pan with the motor out of the truck, I figured it's pretty hard to take off while in the truck. I'm sure the tube that sucks the oil to the pump is in the way.
 

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Removing the pan in the truck is a mother fucker...

Dropping the rack will give you more room but I didn't see it giving enough to clear the bell housing...so in my situation I just left it where it was because having it dangle gave me enough room to do what I needed to do...and for what you're doing you don't need to remove it completely either...you can get the little bolt off the pickup with a wrench, just make sure you don't drop it on the pan...

Seems like these engines were made for maximum profit at the dealer service center...flat rate for replacing the oil pan is ~9 hours...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Removing the pan in the truck is a mother fucker...

Dropping the rack will give you more room but I didn't see it giving enough to clear the bell housing...so in my situation I just left it where it was because having it dangle gave me enough room to do what I needed to do...and for what you're doing you don't need to remove it completely either...you can get the little bolt off the pickup with a wrench, just make sure you don't drop it on the pan...

Seems like these engines were made for maximum profit at the dealer service center...flat rate for replacing the oil pan is ~9 hours...
So where is the bolt that I need to remove? I think I just need to get to the oil pump pipe.
 

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So where is the bolt that I need to remove? I think I just need to get to the oil pump pipe.
It's in the left side of the flange of the pickup, it threads into the bottom of the front cover...it's a 10mm...you'll be able to see the pickup between the bottom of the front cover and oil pan (if you've dropped your oilpan like you said)...it's the only thing that will prevent you from getting the front cover off other than the a/c compressor, belt tensioner, and crank pulley...
 

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i pulled my oil pan off by removing the motor mount bolts and jacking it up a couple of inchs and i left the rack in place then used a swivel socket to get to the bolts that hold the pick up tube in place. Then i took it all down and bolted the mounts up again to finish my repair.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i pulled my oil pan off by removing the motor mount bolts and jacking it up a couple of inchs and i left the rack in place then used a swivel socket to get to the bolts that hold the pick up tube in place. Then i took it all down and bolted the mounts up again to finish my repair.
I thought about that. How many bolts for the motor mounts? Were you able to remove the pan completely?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok, I got the oil pipe bolt out but now I can not get the big nut off the water pump. I tried the wooden wedge method but that didn't work. Wasted about four hours there. Any other way to get this sucker off?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Alright, I got the water pump off (had to fabricate a quick spanner wrench). Got the Crank pulley bolt (big cheater bar), and pulley off. Then today I got the front cover off. Now I just need to replace the cracked chain guide and start putting everything back together.

I still don't have the oil pan all the way off. It's just kinda hanging there. Not sure how I'm going to be able to get some new atv on there and seal it back up without taking it all the way off. I'll try to post some pics later.



 
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