I failed to mention, which I don’t know if it’s related, but it’s gone into reduced power the two times only after I replaced my valve cover gasket which was leaking. It also goes into anti-theft mode at random and I have to wait the 10 minutes to start it up. Thought I’d add that in as patient history.
Crank - no start
So. This morning I went to crank my truck only to find it in reduced power mode 😖 It did this once before, almost two weeks ago. At that point, I did some reading on here and found a suggestion to disconnect the batt for 10 minutes and retry to crank, worked like a charm. I took it to an auto parts store to read the check engine light code and it returned a “P1682 Ignition Switch 1 Circuit 2” Dude said it was most likely a relay (which they didn’t have so I didn’t replace). Back to today, my dad helped me diagnose a few things which led us to find a cracked CKP and replace. No luck. Relays and fuses ok, there’s voltage at TPS, injectors and CKP and there’s good fuel pressure. It got kinda late so we quit. I figured I’d come on here and see if anyone has any suggestions. Thanks in advance!
I did forget to check the blinker fluid… maybe that’s the issue.
I did forget to check the blinker fluid… maybe that’s the issue.
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How old is the battery and what condition is it in? Maybe have it load tested and make sure terminals are clean and tight.
Regarding P1682, remove and check the terminals of the Powertrain and Run/Crank relays to insure they are clean and free of corrosion.
Regarding P1682, remove and check the terminals of the Powertrain and Run/Crank relays to insure they are clean and free of corrosion.
I forgot to mention that too. Last night I removed the battery and had it tested at an auto parts store. They said it was good. The terminals were old and the exposed copper wire for the terminals had corrosion. So I bought new terminals while at Advance and redid them.
This morning I checked that relay and it looks clean. I replaced it with a relay I know works and the truck still didn’t turn over. 😞
This morning I checked that relay and it looks clean. I replaced it with a relay I know works and the truck still didn’t turn over. 😞
Back in June of last year you indicated that the truck had been sitting around for a while. Any chance rodents could have had the wiring on their menu?
It wasn't clear in previous posts, that you have a 'no crank' issue. Have you confirmed 12 volts at the starter motor terminal? Have you checked for 12 volts at the solenoid with the key in 'start' position?
It wasn't clear in previous posts, that you have a 'no crank' issue. Have you confirmed 12 volts at the starter motor terminal? Have you checked for 12 volts at the solenoid with the key in 'start' position?
Yea it did sit for some time. However I ran it for 11 months non-stop, 1.5 hr commute round trip for work. I’ve put in 15,000 miles in those 11 months. The issue began about two weeks ago.
The truck does crank, it goes like it’s gonna turn over then instantly sputters out. A buddy ran a bunch of diagnostics, engine has compression, though cylinder 3 is the lowest at 150psi. Injectors have pulse, coils all have power. He’s saying he suspects a timing issue 🤷🏻♂️
He got a B0005 and P1682
The truck does crank, it goes like it’s gonna turn over then instantly sputters out. A buddy ran a bunch of diagnostics, engine has compression, though cylinder 3 is the lowest at 150psi. Injectors have pulse, coils all have power. He’s saying he suspects a timing issue 🤷🏻♂️
He got a B0005 and P1682
Back in June of last year you indicated that the truck had been sitting around for a while. Any chance rodents could have had the wiring on their menu?
It wasn't clear in previous posts, that you have a 'no crank' issue. Have you confirmed 12 volts at the starter motor terminal? Have you checked for 12 volts at the solenoid with the key in 'start' position?
Sounds to me like the passlock is acting up. I had a similar issue recently, ended up replacing the ignition switch.Yea it did sit for some time. However I ran it for 11 months non-stop, 1.5 hr commute round trip for work. I’ve put in 15,000 miles in those 11 months. The issue began about two weeks ago.
The truck does crank, it goes like it’s gonna turn over then instantly sputters out. A buddy ran a bunch of diagnostics, engine has compression, though cylinder 3 is the lowest at 150psi. Injectors have pulse, coils all have power. He’s saying he suspects a timing issue
He got a B0005 and P1682
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B0005, Park brake switch circuit. Shouldn't affect your issue.Yea it did sit for some time. However I ran it for 11 months non-stop, 1.5 hr commute round trip for work. I’ve put in 15,000 miles in those 11 months. The issue began about two weeks ago.
The truck does crank, it goes like it’s gonna turn over then instantly sputters out. A buddy ran a bunch of diagnostics, engine has compression, though cylinder 3 is the lowest at 150psi. Injectors have pulse, coils all have power. He’s saying he suspects a timing issue 🤷🏻♂️
He got a B0005 and P1682
P1682, The Powertrain Relay and the RUN/CRANK Relay both send power to the PCM. They both should be sending 12+ volts to the PCM, but one isn't.
That's the only codes he got? Nothing for reduced power?
He didn’t get anything for reduced power but the dash does say it. Gives me a check engine light too
Did you get reduced engine power too?Sounds to me like the passlock is acting up. I had a similar issue recently, ended up replacing the ignition switch.
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I did not, my truck would not start. It would start briefly and then stall, only the security light would flash.Did you get reduced engine power too?
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The 'reduced power' issue is not making much sense. Normally the ECM sets a reduced power mode due to a problem with the TAC System (throttle body posiion switches, accelerator pedal position switches, etc) and a code or codes will be set. There are no codes being set relative to the TAC System.Did you get reduced engine power too?
You previously said that the problem started after replacing the camshaft cover seals. Maybe recheck the installation to insure all of the vacuum hoses are connected and in good condition, especially the EVAP purge line that connects to the throttle body. Also check all of the connecting boots on the resonator.
Good find !! Good fix!! Thanks for the update.
Thank you guys for the input!
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