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Discussion Starter #1
Im looking for a crew cab sub box with sub and amp or just box prefer a 10inch but will consider a 12inch anyone have anything?
 

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shipping would probably be close to $50 and I'm looking for around $140 for the sub/box. I absolutely loved how it sounded for a single 10, but I just got bored and got a good deal on a sundown 18". haha
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You know what I'm going to have to pass I wasn't thinking about it until I got in the truck and realized my daughters car seat is right in the middle haha thanks anyways but I'm thinking I need a under the seat or something smaller
 

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I know they are on eBay for like $80 shipped. Only place I've seen them.
 

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Alright. This:

http://www.amazon.com/Colorado-2004-2012-Subwoofer-Speaker-Enclosure/dp/B00IFED7B2

is what I have. IT DOES NOT FIT! But you can make it.

Box claims to be downfiring, forget that shit, point it up.
So with the subs facing up, the bottom lip on the long side needs to be notched to allow it to slide far enough back that the seat bar doesnt rest on the sub.
Also, i put washers under the front mounts of the rear seat, i put as much as i could that still allowed the nut to be fully threaded by the stud, this will not make the seat any less comfortable than it already is.


Thats pretty much all, i got a lot of negativity about doing this, all my research said it wouldnt work and even the "professional" sound guys in town didnt think so but were glad to take my money to do the notch anyway, (they actually screwed up and notched the short side first, oh well i made sure they didnt charge for that).

I have 2 powerbass 10" subs with a 1000w pioneer amp, and i am very pleased with it.
 

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@Cavenaut Looks great, heard good reviews on the downfiring rather than upfiring into the seat but I'm sure that sounds fantastic. Loved PB when I them 2 15s in the trunk lol
 

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well the thing is with this one, the box claimed to be downfiring but i just didnt see a way because the subs would have collided with the floor which just isnt good for many reasons.

but my head unit allowed my to reverse the phase which essentially makes them hit into the box rather than outwards (simplest terms my buddy who does sound system installations and acoustics could explain to me)

i do really feel the need to dynamat the truck tho, mostly because of the ruined factory insulation from the third brake light leak and me removing some

i also love the box because its stealthy, got some good thumbs up from quite a few people who didnt expect the bass
 

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@Cavenaut Cant say ive ever heard of reversing the phase into the box but i'll keep that in mind lol I chose the cheaper route of using Rattletrap rather than dynamat and believe me it made a big change as far as road noise and I only did the doors. Should do the rear window panel next.

As for the third break light just get some of that gasket sealer liquid, worked perfect for me!
 

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Discussion Starter #18

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@The 530 Postman I actually just bought it so I dont even have it yet but it had really good reviews on his ebay page so I gave it a shot lol Ill be sure to post back on here in a couple weeks and let everyone know
 

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@darvoh i had never heard of it either until i was playing around in my radios settings. about 5 minutes of research told me that it basically puts the sub 180degrees out of phase with the rest of speakers in the system, essentially flipping the polarity. and subs tend to extend farther outward than inward to avoid damaging the voice coils, and the outward movement is what we hear as the 'harder hits'. reversing the phase causes the opposite, now the sub is moving inward farther than it moves outward.

i'm an electrical/electronics system major and work with the stuff daily, but audio just isnt my thing, i usually go to my buddy for that hes done it his whole life. he says reverse phased speakers have more ways to be damaged that way but normally when overpowered. i guess there are specific uses for it, hes just never before had to use it.

All i know for sure is, they sound better that way
 
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