[Czkrebbs]

So I just regear my front diff to 4.10s with new seals, bearings, and cv axles. I already had a 1 inch front diff drop and a max crank on my TBars. And my new CV boots look like hell all bunched up crap. Just destined to blow out again bc its rubbing against itself. I'm thinking about removing the clamp on the upper boot and moving it down, closer to the other boot, and replacing the stainless strap/clamp with a replacement from AutoZone. Has any done this with any advice?

 

[Czkrebbs]

Oh and pics of the upper boot I'm talking about

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[cherokeecanyon]

wow yeah that looks pretty bad id try whst you were sayin and move the boot down just watch when your at full lock

 

[Czkrebbs]

I know right! I don't even wanna drive it. Tear the new boot. I'm just concerned if I can get the boot to seal if I move it down.

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[cherokeecanyon]

run a bead of high temp sealer and bring it down some, anything would hel those arent gonna last long like that

 

[Czkrebbs]

I just had that very same thought. I wonder if they will cut with a snip from sharp dikes or would a Dreamel work better.

 

[cherokeecanyon]

idk if i would use a dremel side cutter will do it, using a dremel id be afraid id nick the boot

 

[Czkrebbs]

Imma start with cutters, all else fails use dremel.

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[cherokeecanyon]

good shot, ive never seen cv boots bunched up like that even after i cranked without my diff drop

 

[Czkrebbs]

It wasn't this bad with my OEM boots. I think these cardone axles just have the boot on to high. Cheap.

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[rodeo]

Planetisuzoo.com ? View topic - DOR Diff Drop Intro and Install

Just out of curiosity, I see you guy only usespa ers for diff drops. In the isuzu comunity we mod the brackets, may be something that could help your cc angles. Idk if theres anything preventing this in a colorado but our suspensions are very similar. This thread has some good pics of wat I mean.

 

[Czkrebbs]

Thanks rodeo, that's interesting, one of the limitations we have by dropping the diff all the way down is the A-arms will contact the upper part of the cv axle during suspension flex.

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[Czkrebbs]

Looks a little better

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[cherokeecanyon]

looks good, hope these last you, i was just lookin at mine think its about time to replace mine as well still ok but have close to 75k on her, love preventive maintenance

 

[Czkrebbs]

I have a 1inch spacer on there now. I decide I'm going to make 1.5 spacers. that would leave 2 inches from my A-arm. and 2 inchs between A-arm and bump stop. So I won't have cv axle A-arm contact at full front flex.

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[Czkrebbs]

looks good, hope these last you, i was just lookin at mine think its about time to replace mine as well still ok but have close to 75k on her, love preventive maintenance

I wouldn't take OEM off until its broke/torn. My OEM lasted 95k prob 60 k of that max crank

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[1BADI5]

Screaming for a diff drop for sure.........the shafts and hubs no likey those angles

 

[08Canyon]

Looks a little better

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Is the boot pulled so tightly that it can't flex with the suspension cycling?

I have a 1inch spacer on there now. I decide I'm going to make 1.5 spacers. that would leave 2 inches from my A-arm. and 2 inchs between A-arm and bump stop. So I won't have cv axle A-arm contact at full front flex.

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What spacers are you referring to? Differential spacers?

Will the new bolts be long enough for that thick of a spacer?

 

[Czkrebbs]

Yes differential spacers, and no the bolt won't b long enough. Good thing I know where they sell longer grade 8 bolts. No worries the boots will move while the cv angle changes

What other spacer do u think I would b referring to, 08canyon?
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[08Canyon]

I didn't feel like rereading the thread, wondered if you were also doing ball joint spacers. But that is another active thread going on in parallel to this one.

No worries about the bolt, just making sure you were aware. The Stage II kit from SMAXX included longer hardware, also didn't know if that was you who has that kit.

There are a few threads all semi-related going on and I was confused and didn't want to read through.