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Discussion Starter #21
You mentioned above in post 5 that you were not sure if the outer tie rod ends had been replaced or not,.......
Just to come back to this... inner and outer tie rods were brand new. Front sway bar link rods were also brand new.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
The upper and lower ball joints just bolt in so I’d do them as well.
Ball joints didnt look BAD, but they didnt look new either. If they arent original they arent fresh. Its on the list to do when I tackle this rear axle seal leak.

Front cv axles all look good, no leaks that I could see. I will probably tackle the seals and maybe pro-actively change the CV shafts when i do the ball joints... but I didnt break the front end down far enough to get the CV shafts out anyway.
 

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And what is absolutely funny as heck is that in 45 years of working on cars and trucks I have NEVER, ever encountered a warped rotor! Sure I have seen rotors wear unevenly and pad material melt onto the rotor causing issues that present exactly like a supposed warped rotor, but I have never seen an actual warped rotor.
 

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On my colorado I replaced the both upper and lower ball joints even though I only found the uppers to be truely shot.

good to hear the entire steering components are fresh!
 

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Discussion Starter #25
And what is absolutely funny as heck is that in 45 years of working on cars and trucks I have NEVER, ever encountered a warped rotor! Sure I have seen rotors wear unevenly and pad material melt onto the rotor causing issues that present exactly like a supposed warped rotor, but I have never seen an actual warped rotor.
There was just a big discussion on Corvette Forum this last week about this. Im in this camp as well and there are some papers out by stoptech and a few of the other big manufacturers that state this as well. The post on CF was asking about a vibration under braking and the Chevy dealer diagnosed warped rotors and wanted 3700 bucks to change everything... Most of us said "go do like 20 stops from 60-70 down to 5 repeatedly and get the brakes smoking hot". I said worse case he STILL has "warped" rotors... He went and did that and said 99% of the problem disappeared.

BUT to be fair to the "warped rotor" crowd, I have experienced at least 2 cars that the rotors were warped or otherwise damaged. One was a BMW my mom owned that had the caliper slide pins freeze up and only one side of the rotor was getting used(inner pad was down to nothing and the outer pad was fresh)... Thats an extreme example. Possibly not warped, although definitely damaged. The other was a 2011 Corvette GS I bought with "warped" brakes... To be fair I never mic'd the brake rotors, BUT the previous owner told me he had the rotors turned and pad slapped it. Problem on those cars is you cant/arent supposed to have the rotors turned as they are already at basically minimum thickness. The rotors were definitely grooved(more like rolling hills)... which could have simply been causing some odd braking sensations(even the steering wheel shook back and forth under braking)...
 

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I had a guy show me a rotor after we had a similar warp no warp rotor discussion that he said was warped. Sure enough it looked warped and you could see a wavy rotor, but with a little further looksee what happened was the cooling fins were cracked/corroded between the front and backside of the rotor and the rotor faces were collapsing inwards in those spots.

I have seen atv and side by sides with a warped rotor, but those were single slab rotors and are probably nothing more than stamped low carbon steel. They utilized a similar hatless bolt-on configuration as the colorado.....lol
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Just finished up... bedding everything...

The truck will do 8 HARD stops from 60-5mph before smoking the brakes...on the 9th hard stop...

Somewhere I fucked up adjusting the rear brakes. I had them pretty close when I re-assembled. I set the parking brake about 3/4 of the way down and backed up like 2-3 times... Parking brake holds great... except the pedal wont release. I have to put my foot under it to raise it. So it auto adjusted to far I think... So I guess I gotta pull the plugs out and try to back off the adjusters a little...except I dont know that thats possible with the little locks on the adjuster. I had to disassemble one side yesterday that I adjusted out to far...the drum wouldnt go on and I couldnt turn the adjust backwards... So I hope I dont have to pull the rears apart again and back off the adjusters.
 
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