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My ignition key is supposed to be the same one that opens the door and tailgate, correct? I just got my 2005 Xtreme in April, and discovered I cannot even get the key all the way into the keyhole of either door or tailgate, let alone turn it.

Is this the correct depth? Think they rekeyed the ignition, maybe? Can I get the door and tailgate rekeyed?

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My ignition key is supposed to be the same one that opens the door and tailgate, correct? I just got my 2005 Xtreme in April, and discovered I cannot even get the key all the way into the keyhole of either door or tailgate, let alone turn it.

Is this the correct depth? Think they rekeyed the ignition, maybe? Can I get the door and tailgate rekeyed?

View attachment 343090
Yes, the ignition key should work on all locks. Yes, that's about how far the key sticks out of the lock. Someone replaced the ignition cylinder without coding it to the original. The previous owner should have provided the original keys to fit the door/tailgate. A locksmith can recode the locks on the door/tailgate, but it will be expensive if they have to do the removal and installation of the locks. Also the tumblers are unique to the 355s. Try contacting the previous owner. If you can get the original key, it would be easier to just recode the ignition cylinder.
 

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Yes, the ignition key should work on all locks. Yes, that's about how far the key sticks out of the lock. Someone replaced the ignition cylinder without coding it to the original. The previous owner should have provided the original keys to fit the door/tailgate. A locksmith can recode the locks on the door/tailgate, but it will be expensive if they have to do the removal and installation of the locks. Also the tumblers are unique to the 355s. Try contacting the previous owner. If you can get the original key, it would be easier to just recode the ignition cylinder.
Another option might be to go to a Dealer and ask them to look up the code for the original keys. The keys can be cut from the code. Don't know what they will require for identification, but they don't just give out that info.
 

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Another option might be to go to a Dealer and ask them to look up the code for the original keys. The keys can be cut from the code. Don't know what they will require for identification, but they don't just give out that info.
If I have only a worn key, I have a new one cut from the code. If you take your original key in, you should not need ID or proof of ownership.
 

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If I have only a worn key, I have a new one cut from the code. If you take your original key in, you should not need ID or proof of ownership.
The problem is that he doesn't apparently have any of the original keys. New lock cylinders are not sold with keys and no tumblers are installed. It looks like the original ignition cylinder has been replaced with one that came from a different truck and came with a key to fit.
 

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The problem is that he doesn't apparently have any of the original keys. New lock cylinders are not sold with keys and no tumblers are installed. It looks like the original ignition cylinder has been replaced with one that came from a different truck and came with a key to fit.
That's what I thought with mine, but it was a worn key. I verified it with my spare key, then had a new key cut at my local Chevy dealer. I bought my truck from a friend. He never locked the gate, and used the key fob to lock/unlock doors.Looks like an original key in OP's picture.
 

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That's what I thought with mine, but it was a worn key. I verified it with my spare key, then had a new key cut at my local Chevy dealer. I bought my truck from a friend. He never locked the gate, and used the key fob to lock/unlock doors.Looks like an original key in OP's picture.
Ah, okay. My bad. I agree with you that the key could just be worn. Worth a shot to get one made from code.
 

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It isn't too hard to pull the door handle and/or tailgate handle. The lock cores are each held into the handles with two m6 bolts. In the case of my 04, I had a few problems. The tailgate lock was corroded so bad it wouldn't turn, and the door lock/key was so worn that the tumblers weren't retracting all the way.

Once you get the locks out of the truck, it's pretty easy to inspect and disassemble, clean, rekey, and lube them.
1) Pop the e-clip off the back of the core and remove the lever.
2) Pry up the little crimps on the side to get the chrome cap off (the end where you insert the key)
3) Insert the key so you don't loose any tumblers or little springs and pull the core out
4) With the key firmly seated, inspect the core. You should see that the tumblers are flush with the body of the core. The whole assembly needs to be round to turn in the lock. If it isn't, it locks into the slot in the lock body.
5) If tumblers are sticking up slightly due to wear, they can be filed down by hand. I'd recommend removing them one at a time so they don't get mixed up. If they're sticking up a lot with the key inserted, you'll need to remove and reassemble them in a different order to make them match your key cuts. It's ok if not all of them go back in, but use as many as you can. The more you can use the better
6) Reassembly is reverse of removal. don't forget to crimp that little chrome cap back on in a couple spots.
7) By the way, it's best to lube locks with something that won't harden or draw dirt and grit. I usually use a bit of graphite.

I'm pretty sure I have a spare tailgate lock in my toolbox. If you want to try tackling this yourself, I could probably snap a few pictures so you can see what I'm talking about. There are a lot of small pieces, but it's not hard at all. I actually find it's kind of fun.
 

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worn key or worn lockset from too many keys aka heavy can cause lockset issues + possibly a lockset change requiring a different key can be a PITA!! be sure to keep locksets lubed + can need a cleaning if you put a "linty" key from your pocket in it often
 
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