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If the switch indicator lights illuminate for both "high" and "low" the switch is probably good. I don't know how you have the seat wired to your truck, but locate the file I sent, named "Inline pinouts". Scroll through the connectors until you find C307. That is the larger of the two connectors for the seat. Make sure that you have battery power at Pin D. That is power to the heater elements. Pin A, Ignition 3 Voltage is the power going to the seat heat select switch for control of the circuit.
 

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So, the OP says 'Project Time: 1 Hour or less'. What was he smoking when he wrote that?

After buying heated power leather H3 seats for my one of my collys and spending around 15 hours with a multimeter and the wiring diagrams for an H3, I've decided heated power leather seats are a stupid idea and am going to remove the heated seat switch and just wire it for power seats. I've got power adjustment working 100% for both seats right now and have only looked at the heating wiring for the passenger seat, but heated seats are not going to happen. After about an hour I had the power adjustment wired up, and transferring the wiring harnesses from my full manual cloth colly seats was done in seconds, but heat is not going to happen. I had to walk away from it right now because I've got switched 12v power to the heated seat switch, 12v from the heated seat switch up to the little heated seat controller box thing with the switch in high or low, and 12v constant also to the little heated seat controller box thing. I've also got ground at the little heated seat controller box thing. But the high/low switch doesn't light and the seat doesn't heat. Also, the 12v constant draws 0 amps regardless of switch position and the 12v switched draws 3 amps in high and 3 amps in low and of course 0 amps in the 'off' position. It looks to me like whatever the little heated seat controller box thing doesn't work, but I really don't know. I'm usually pretty good with wiring, but this one's got me stuck pretty good.

The wiring directions in the OP are absolutely worthless.
 

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So, the OP says 'Project Time: 1 Hour or less'. What was he smoking when he wrote that?

After buying heated power leather H3 seats for my one of my collys and spending around 15 hours with a multimeter and the wiring diagrams for an H3, I've decided heated power leather seats are a stupid idea and am going to remove the heated seat switch and just wire it for power seats. I've got power adjustment working 100% for both seats right now and have only looked at the heating wiring for the passenger seat, but heated seats are not going to happen. After about an hour I had the power adjustment wired up, and transferring the wiring harnesses from my full manual cloth colly seats was done in seconds, but heat is not going to happen. I had to walk away from it right now because I've got switched 12v power to the heated seat switch, 12v from the heated seat switch up to the little heated seat controller box thing with the switch in high or low, and 12v constant also to the little heated seat controller box thing. I've also got ground at the little heated seat controller box thing. But the high/low switch doesn't light and the seat doesn't heat. Also, the 12v constant draws 0 amps regardless of switch position and the 12v switched draws 3 amps in high and 3 amps in low and of course 0 amps in the 'off' position. It looks to me like whatever the little heated seat controller box thing doesn't work, but I really don't know. I'm usually pretty good with wiring, but this one's got me stuck pretty good.

The wiring directions in the OP are absolutely worthless.
H3 Passenger seat won't fire without the seatbelt being buckled, which means you need to use MY how-to post to do your wiring.
Mine is specific to going from cloth manual seats to heated h3. The whole project took me about 4 hours, had the same issues you did (except the seatbelt thing, Google warned me ahead of time about that) so I made my own post after guesswork and texting with the OP of this thread to troubleshoot my issues with backfeeding the RAP circuit.

We got this. Get a beer, take a deep breath, and read my how to.
 

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H3 Passenger seat won't fire without the seatbelt being buckled, which means you need to use MY how-to post to do your wiring.
Mine is specific to going from cloth manual seats to heated h3. The whole project took me about 4 hours, had the same issues you did (except the seatbelt thing, Google warned me ahead of time about that) so I made my own post after guesswork and texting with the OP of this thread to troubleshoot my issues with backfeeding the RAP circuit.

We got this. Get a beer, take a deep breath, and read my how to.
I actually did read yours too, before starting. Which is why the first thing I did was disassemble the H3 seat belt buckle and figure out which of the 4 wires going to the buckle I should twist together to remedy that situation. My buckle mechanism has the 2 blacks connected when unbuckled and the 2 blues connected when buckled, so I connected blue to blue and not black to black per your tutorial, but I wouldn't think that would be the problem. But my truck is an '06 and my seat is from an '06 H3, so it's possible things are a little different. I don't really know.

Honestly, I work as a maintenance mechanic and I'm the one they call in for electrical problems. But yeah, this one's kicking my ass. I think my best option is to walk away from it for a day or two and come back with fresh eyes.
 

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I actually did read yours too, before starting. Which is why the first thing I did was disassemble the H3 seat belt buckle and figure out which of the 4 wires going to the buckle I should twist together to remedy that situation. My buckle mechanism has the 2 blacks connected when unbuckled and the 2 blues connected when buckled, so I connected blue to blue and not black to black per your tutorial, but I wouldn't think that would be the problem. But my truck is an '06 and my seat is from an '06 H3, so it's possible things are a little different. I don't really know.

Honestly, I work as a maintenance mechanic and I'm the one they call in for electrical problems. But yeah, this one's kicking my ass. I think my best option is to walk away from it for a day or two and come back with fresh eyes.
The seatbelt switch issue is 100% specific to all h3 seats regardless of year. Black to black is the ground and you can't close the circuit without a path to ground. Once you connect them it should fire. If you look at the copper slide and the circuit board, black to black is always connected while the blue is what is broken when the circuit is open. No idea why they set up a switch that way, but there it is.
 

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The seatbelt switch issue is 100% specific to all h3 seats regardless of year. Black to black is the ground and you can't close the circuit without a path to ground. Once you connect them it should fire. If you look at the copper slide and the circuit board, black to black is always connected while the blue is what is broken when the circuit is open. No idea why they set up a switch that way, but there it is.
I just went out to the garage and put an ohmmeter across the black wires and manipulated the buckle mechanism and the black wires are most certainly only connected when the belt is unbuckled. But, I threw a jumper across them and tested the seat anyway and nope, still nothing from the heated seat. 3.1amps drawn by the switched 12v and 0amps on the constant 12v. No heat and no light on the high/low switch. Lumbar and seat adjustment still worked fine.
 

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I just went out to the garage and put an ohmmeter across the black wires and manipulated the buckle mechanism and the black wires are most certainly only connected when the belt is unbuckled. But, I threw a jumper across them and tested the seat anyway and nope, still nothing from the heated seat. 3.1amps drawn by the switched 12v and 0amps on the constant 12v. No heat and no light on the high/low switch. Lumbar and seat adjustment still worked fine.

Where do you have the brown wire connected to?

Give a wire color break down of all your electrical connections.
 

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Where do you have the brown wire connected to?

Give a wire color break down of all your electrical connections.
As I'm testing on the bench with a spare battery, when I test the seat I believe I've got the brown wire on the positive terminal of the battery. It'd be RAP/switched power once it's in the truck. I'm not sure on the rest at the moment. I'll update when I get home. I had a free moment at work, so I figured I'd check in. :p

Thanks for helping, guys.
 

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Where do you have the brown wire connected to?

Give a wire color break down of all your electrical connections.
Ok, the seats are (supposedly - eBay sellers are hopeless a lot of the time) from a 2006 H3. I'm working on the passenger seat right now, so all these pictures/colors/etc are passenger seat. There are only 2 connectors to connect the seat to the truck. Here's what the connectors look like, with arbitrary numbers placed on for ease of reference:





Ok, here's the wire colors and estimated wire gauge size:
1. Black, 12 Gauge
2. Yellow, 16 Gauge
3. Brown, 16 Gauge
4. Green, 16 Gauge
5. Dark Blue, 16 Gauge
6. Orange, 16 Gauge
7. Black with a White Stripe, 16 Gauge
8. No wire/pin
9. Light Blue, 16 Gauge
10. No wire/pin
11. Pink, 16 Gauge
12. Orange, 12 Gauge

13. Black with a White Stripe, 16 Gauge
14. Green with a White Stripe, 16 Guage
15. Black with a White Stripe, 16 Gauge
16. Black with a White Stripe, 16 Gauge
17. Red, 16 Gauge
18. Brown, 16 Gauge
19. No wire/pin
20. No wire/pin

And here's what I've got wired right now:
12v Constant on #12
12v RAP/Switched on #3, #6, and #17
Ground on #1

Also, I have the 2 blue wires going to the seatbelt buckle twisted together (there's also 2 black wires going there, but they're only connected when the buckle is unbuckled, so I just have those clipped off and insulated right now.

I'm working off these wiring diagrams, which should be correct, but I have my doubts:




 

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10 port connector


CONNECTIONS LEFT TO RIGHT
Orange Wire Top LEFT & Bottom LEFT - Battery Power
Blue, Green, Pink, Light Blue & Yellow - NOTHING
Brown - RAP
Black Wire Top RIGHT & Bottom RIGHT - Ground

8 port connector


CONNECTIONS LEFT TO RIGHT
Black Wire top LEFT - GROUND
Black Wire top RIGHT - GROUND
Brown Wire Bottom Right Center - RAP
Red Wire Bottom Right - NOTHING

Using your numbers...

Constant Hot - #6, #12,
RAP - #3, #18
Ground - #1, #7, #13, #16

Also, if you feed RAP to #17 you'll backfeed the rap circuit and your truck won't shut off. Ask me how I know.

My connector doesn't have pins #14 or #15. When I wired mine, I used the color rules for vehicle wiring...orange = hot, brown = rap, black and black w/white stripe = ground.

If connecting the black wires to each other from the seatbelt circuit was an issue, why does my passenger seat heat work? Black is always a ground and every ground goes to the same place on a vehicle, they arent isolated from each other in any way. Even if the black wires go to circuits you aren't trying to close...it doesn't hurt anything to connect them to ground.

You need the 2 orange wires to constant hot, since you aren't running the relay for 12v constant on through the drivers seat (like it shows on your wiring diagrams). If the fuse blew for the drivers, the passenger seat would fail as well, but fusing the entire constant hot at the entry and splitting from there to each seat individually serves the same purpose, without being impacted by drivers side fuses blowing (hence the 5 fuse holders instead of the 1 in the h3 harness)

Also, my seats have been in and wired for over 6 months without issue...heat, lumbar, Adjustment all function 100%. Why re-invent the wheel when you haven't done the connections based off either how-to yet?
 

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Ok, so I wired it up that way and for about 30 seconds the light on the heater switch lit in high. Then I shut it off and disconnected power to put an ampmeter on it out of curiosity. But when I reconnected power the light didn't light and I was drawing the same as before, 3 amps on the RAP line in high and 3 amps in low, with 0 amps on the 12v constant line. So I removed the amp meter and hooked it back up exactly how I had it when it worked and got nothing. I made sure nothing was grounding out or wires touching that shouldn't or anything like that and found nothing, so I started tracing the circuits figuring I've got a bad connection somewhere, but I've got continuity from the RAP line to the switch, from the switch to the heated seat module, from the 12v constant line to the heated seat module, from ground to the heated seat module, from the heated seat module to the heating coils, from one coil to the other, from the coils to ground, and about 2.5 Ohms through each coil. What that tells me is that either the switch or the heated seat module is bad. I'm planning on just wiring the seat up for power adjustment and installing it tonight and not worrying about having a heated passenger seat. I'm going to want heat in my driver's seat, though, so hopefully that goes a little smoother. I'm ready to be done with this stupid seat project so I can move onto other things. I've got a pile of suspension parts crying to be installed.

I'd just like to take a moment to apologize to Supermod for calling his wiring tutorial worthless. It looks like what you just gave me was pretty much what he said in the OP. It turns out his wiring tutorial was correct (it did actually work for about 30 seconds, lol) and I'm just shit at following directions. :p

Thank you guys for trying to help me muddle through something that I don't understand.
 

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Just an update in case anyone's interested or wondering or cares - The seats are in and the driver's seat is working 100% except for the light in the switch doesn't light. But that doesn't really matter at all, considering the switch isn't viewable at all except when getting into the truck and it heats anyway. Passenger seat power adjustment works, though I didn't test if the heat was working without the light lighting. The light doesn't light anyway. I found a spot on the drivers seat wiring where someone had spliced the wires, changing the colors, inside of the plastic corrugated conduit stuff and that makes me wonder a little on the passenger seat wiring. Not enough to go back and work on that mess again, but it makes me wonder a little.

On to much funner things. I'll be putting a new set of wheels on her as soon as they get back from the machine shop and I get tires and I'll be tearing the front suspension apart (and a little work on the back suspension as well) by the end of this week.
 
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