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The wire colors are Tan (unlock) and Grey (lock). Look for the wires in the 9 pin connectors in both hinge areas. They should be the only wires in the 9 pin connectors with those colors. Good luck.
I'm not sure just how the wires are routed across the front of the truck. Probably somewhere behind the instrument panel. I'll dig back in the Service Manual and try to find some more info.
Thanks man. really appreciate the info. It'll probably be Saturday before I tear into this. I'll post up what I find.
 

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Ipaid hehe
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The driver's door switch module and the wiper system both use the ground pack in the engine bay on the left fender wall outboard of the Brake Control Module. Did you confirm good contact there and that the wires in the junction box are good?
I'm going to have to check on that. I don't remember which truck I had checked on the ground connections. Thanks. I have a project for the weekend... yey!!!
 

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I am having the same issues.For three straight days now I disconnect the the + and - cables at 5.00 pm and connect back up at 6.30 am when I leave to go to work.Why can't/don't gm fix this problem.Still not working.The drivers window won't work,but all others work.Lights flash and can hear a click when I arm/disarm the keyless system.
 

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Mine ended up being the actual switch on the driver side :( but also damaged the bcm for some odd reason. So had to replace both :(
 

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How much does a bcm cost.I will give it a couple more days and try a drivers door power switch before looking at a bcm.
 

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Had to chime in. It's about 20 degrees and my driver window wouldn't roll down and the driver lock doesn't operate. I can roll the passenger side window down from the drivers side though. Went to this post cause I didn't do anything with the radio or battery. And it's been like this for a day.

I flicked the lock on the passengers door a couple times and everything started working again. I had the truck running.
 

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After my positive and negative unhooked for 48 hrs,it still isn't working.I noticed my chime going off would go off and stop then do it again.I am fed up with this crap.
 

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Shazam. First post and it's pretty decent. I've dealt with this issue for a few years off and on. Usually disconnecting the ground for a few days would fix it but not this time.

Straight from a GM mastertech, the issues lies as a glitch within the bcm. There are capacitors storing energy in the bcm. Disconnect both positive and ground cables and touch them together to drain the stored energy for a minute or so. Voila and it works. This is standard procedure for a bcm reset.
 

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I'm having a very similar problem, my doors won't lock and driver side window doesn't work. I just installed two 18watt fog lights and grounded them to a bolt that affixes the fenders. Any chance there is some sorta back feed between the main ground harness and my other ground points causng the bcm to trip? I have tried reseting the bcm and no go. Its also cold here and my battery is a little low, but not deathly low.
 

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I'm having a very similar problem, my doors won't lock and driver side window doesn't work. I just installed two 18watt fog lights and grounded them to a bolt that affixes the fenders. Any chance there is some sorta back feed between the main ground harness and my other ground points causng the bcm to trip? I have tried reseting the bcm and no go. Its also cold here and my battery is a little low, but not deathly low.
You wouldn't have problems from the fog light ground. Just to clarify one thing: The BCM has no control over the operation of the windows. The BCM controls the RAP relay, but you can easily check to see if that is the problem. If the wipers operate, the RAP relay is good. The BCM does control the locks when the transmission is shifted and when the remote is used. The circuits for the lock switches, on the doors, do not go through the BCM.

In short, there is only one direct connection shared by both the windows and the door locks. Both use the same ground wire from the driver's switch module to G105 on the left fender wall aft of the battery. It appears that there is either a bad ground or an open in the wire from the door switch. If that's the case, it usually breaks in the door hinge area.

Oops, must have had a brain fart. There is one other component in the equation. It could also be a defective logic board in the driver' switch module.
 

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I'll have to do some digging around in the cold tomorrow. Is there any way to test the above?

The passenger window works from both door switches, could it still be a ground? I've also tried disconnecting battery cables, held them together for 30min, and tried disconnecting the harnesses behind the passenger kick plate. Nothing.
 

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Kitchener? As in Ontario? If it is, you have my sympathy. Weather wise!

The ground for the passenger window motor is G106, which is on the opposite side of the engine bay.

If the passenger window works, you can rule out the RAP relay and the BCM as possible causes of your problem. Unless you need to fix this problem immediately, it might be a good idea to wait for warmer temperatures. To check for the source of the ground problem will require removing the door panel and plastics do not like to be disturbed when very cold.

If you are able to do anything in the extreme cold, I would suggest checking the ground point. I am posting a picture of the G105 ground point to show location. For more detailed pics, see post #43 above. Remove the single bolt and clean the mating surfaces of the metal tab on the box and the fender wall. Tug on the wires, VERY LIGHTLY, to insure that none are broken inside the box. If that doesn't help, it won't rule out corrosion inside the box, but if you can, wait for warmer weather to pry open the box. The plastic will be brittle.

This is only an opinion, based on all of the Threads/Posts on the same problem, that the issue more than likely is with the driver's switch module. Most of the time the problem has been corrected by simply disconnecting the battery. If that was the only action taken, it would indicate something had "reset". There is only one affected component that can "reset" and that is the logic board in the switch module. The switch module is not cheap and if disconnecting the battery fixes the problem, who is going to replace it? The reason for eliminating the other possible causes first, is due to the cost of the switch module.

 

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Lol oh yes its a cold one today. I'm not sure I want to tug around on wires when its this cold, due to the crappy brittle wiring used in these trucks, but I will have a look at the ground harness under the hood. Im really hoping I didn't fracture a wire while fishing the fog light wiring..
Is it possible to test wiring with multimeter? I'm certainly not an electrician, so I'm not sure if I'd need the switches open to see if its a bad ground or if its a bad ground I just won't have power
 

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Took the switch panel out of the door and put it on my work bench to see if anything was visually wrong, found nothing. Decided I'd put it back in for comfort reasons and now it works fine. Its been fairly chilly up here for the past couple weeks, any chance the board can't handle it anymore. Would it be sensible to buy a new one if the problem persists
 

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Great find. That eliminates a lot of troubleshooting in the cold. What does "fairly chilly" mean. For me it is any temperature below 65 degrees F (18 degrees C). :)
 

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Lol, below -10 C...I was really worried I accidentally pinched a wire while running the wire for the fogs. I havent experienced this in the 3 years I've had the truck. Have done complete audio install with no problems, then I run some wires in the cold and stuff goes wrong.
 

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I've mentioned this before and someone didn't like it.
BUT
whenever I disconnect and reconnect the battery I loose right window and door locks.
I always pull the window control drivers side and spray with contact cleaner and reinstall and the problem fixes itself.
Dont know why, could be grounds but my 2006 has 22000 miles and no rust dirt etc.
I just know it has worked at least 5 times probably more
 

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I've mentioned this before and someone didn't like it.
BUT
whenever I disconnect and reconnect the battery I loose right window and door locks.
I always pull the window control drivers side and spray with contact cleaner and reinstall and the problem fixes itself.
Dont know why, could be grounds but my 2006 has 22000 miles and no rust dirt etc.
I just know it has worked at least 5 times probably more
It makes sense to me. It is most likely a ground issue, but the ground circuit isn't just the wiring and ground point. It also involves the logic board in the switch module. As I said before, the switch module is most likely causing the problem, but due to the expense involved, no one is going to replace the module if they can "fix it" by some other means. Obviously "other means" could be disconnecting the battery, heating the switch, spraying the switch with contact cleaner, or just waiting for the problem to go away.

The majority of those that reported this problem indicated that it affected the driver's window and the door locks, at the same time. The only thing common to the two circuits is that they utilize the same ground wire from the driver's switch module to G105.
 
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