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Thanks for the help, maybe if I get some extra $ I'll buy a new module, but if bring it in from the cold remedies it then that's what I'll do.
 

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For those still struggling with this issue, after hours of troubleshooting and trying everything on the internet, here is what worked for me and my 2004 Canyon 4 door. In sub-zero temperatures, I took out the driver's side door control panel with the battery still connected. I then separated the module from the bezel with the 4 screws on the bottom. Then I pried the black plastic bottom off by gently prying at the six plastic tabs. Keep it upside down from here, or all the push pegs (that make the contact with the rocker switches) will fall out and figuring out how they go is a jigsaw puzzle - not every rocker tab on the switches get a push peg. (14 holes and only 11 pegs - no you didn't lose any). Take out the PC board. There are two black capacitors that hold power even when unplugged. On mine (freshly driven), only the one towards the center had about 2.5 volts DC. The other had zero. I read somewhere that the capacitors need to be drained of power to reset the relay(s?) that are causing the problem, which is why it works for some to unplug the battery for an hour, or unplug the battery and touch the cables together. That didn't work for me. So I took a flathead screwdriver and shorted the two legs of the capacitor for a couple seconds. Tested it and the power was gone. Put it back together right away, without tapping or heating up the three relays as some have suggested. Worked beautifully right away. 10 minutes from together-->apart--> =together and working.
 

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I took driver door panel off to replace speakers and when I put it back together, just my driver window won't roll down and it won't lock the doors.
The power mirrors still work and it still rolls down all the other windows.
Any help would b greatly appreciated.
It did it to me once and I just took panel off and put back on, and it worked fine, tried that this time and nothing still:/
 

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I have a problem that is intermittent with driver window not rolling down but if i make the passenger side go down it then works. also about the same time this happens if you put truck in park the doors won't unlock and the switches for either side will not unlock them.
You must do it manually. Does this sound like the master switch or a BCM malfunction?
 

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I recently suffered from this too. I of course found this and similar posts- 355 was this best-
My battery was old and got really low to the point of only clicks being heard. After replacing with new BAM! Door locks and driver windows symptoms.
I won't get into what I did that didn't work but rather what I did that worked.
1. Disconnect battery cables
2. Disconnect all three harness behind passenger kick panel.
3. Bridge battery cables for 24 hours (ok I didn't count but from 11pm till whenever I finished dindin the next night.
4. Removed door console and remover module and bridge two capacitors to bleed them of any stored energy.
5. Reinstall console.
6. Plugin 3 main harness.
7. Reconnect battery.
8. Turn on truck and test.
9. Shout for joy.
10. Enjoy tasty beverage.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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For those still struggling with this issue, after hours of troubleshooting and trying everything on the internet, here is what worked for me and my 2004 Canyon 4 door. In sub-zero temperatures, I took out the driver's side door control panel with the battery still connected. I then separated the module from the bezel with the 4 screws on the bottom. Then I pried the black plastic bottom off by gently prying at the six plastic tabs. Keep it upside down from here, or all the push pegs (that make the contact with the rocker switches) will fall out and figuring out how they go is a jigsaw puzzle - not every rocker tab on the switches get a push peg. (14 holes and only 11 pegs - no you didn't lose any). Take out the PC board. There are two black capacitors that hold power even when unplugged. On mine (freshly driven), only the one towards the center had about 2.5 volts DC. The other had zero. I read somewhere that the capacitors need to be drained of power to reset the relay(s?) that are causing the problem, which is why it works for some to unplug the battery for an hour, or unplug the battery and touch the cables together. That didn't work for me. So I took a flathead screwdriver and shorted the two legs of the capacitor for a couple seconds. Tested it and the power was gone. Put it back together right away, without tapping or heating up the three relays as some have suggested. Worked beautifully right away. 10 minutes from together-->apart--> =together and working.

I use this method as it seems to be the easiest. Made a video for those who would like to see how. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KvrJQRu02oQ&feature=youtu.be
 

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I think that solves it, I figure that was the issue as well. I have to work on the Coli this weekend. I'll update a post if this works for me. Do you think it has to be unplugged for a specific period of time? Last time I had the cables off and it didn't cause this thankfully.


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So everything was working fine up till last night. Get to the truck this morning and no power locks or driver window again. Battery is new and there was no interruption in power.
Tried just bridging out the two cap's in the door module and no go. Going to try each at a time, see which works best.


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Well, left the module I the house over night, did nothing else to the truck, got in this morning ad everything works. Go figure.


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Door Module Problem? I went to the dealership today to get my new key fobs programmed (bought on ebay) (I installed new batteries in them) Dealership said problem is with door module it receives signal from my original remote but wont send a signal to the computer to program . New door module or ? Any ideas are appreciated.
 

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I think it works the other way. The BCM receives the signal from the remote and operates the door locks. The door module doesn't get any signal from the remote. The Dealer is supposed to program the remotes to the BCM. Could still be a defective door switch module, though. What exactly is the problem.
 

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What I know is the dealership said that they could not program my fobs as there is a problem with the door module not talking to their computer (that's what he said) . I am going to check the door module as I have just owned this truck for about 3 weeks now still working out the bugs.
 

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When the term "kick plates" is used, are these inside the cab? Thanks.
Sit in the front passenger seat with your legs stretched out. Move your right foot, to the right, until it contacts the wall under the dash. That "wall" is referred to as a kick panel. The BCM is located behind that panel. There is also a left kick panel. To remove the kick panel, first remove the door sill plate by pulling straight up on it. Then get behind the kick panel with your fingers and pull straight inboard to release the friction retainers.

I don't know why I don't have "installed" pics. This is the kick panel removed. You can see two retainers. I can't remember if there were three.



Sill plate. You can see the white retainers:

 

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Seem to be having these issues and more. 2004 Colorado Crew Cab ... etc

When I lived in MN, these things only happened when it was below zero. Now, I have moved to MO and they are happening all the time.
1. driver side window gets stuck open or shut or half way up or down
2. power locks do not work intermittently
3. (I swear this is true) -- Internal blinker signals will go off when they are NOT turned on and the break pedal is pressed.
4. Internal blinker indicator randomly goes off inside.
Not sure about: door chime, internal dome light ... and everything else someone has mentioned above that doesn't keep the trick from going down the road. OK . My issues happen when the truck is going down the road ... but these are the electronic issues that need to be fixed.
 

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If you haven't already done so, start with the basics. Clean the ground points located in the engine compartment. They are two identical small black boxes containing a number of ground wires. Remove the mount bolt for each box and clean the mating surfaces of the fender wall and the box tab. One box is mounted to the right fender wall behind the air filter case. You will need to remove the filter case for access. The other ground box is mounted to the left fender wall, aft of the battery.

Another fairly common trouble spot is the tow harness. To check to see if the tow harness is causing problems disconnect it from the circuit. Follow the harness forward from the bumper and to the left. Locate and disconnect the two tow harness connectors from the chassis harness. Now take the two chassis harness connectors and connect them together.

Let us know what, if anything, changes.

This is what the ground point boxes look like:

 

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Mine ended up being the actual switch on the driver side :( but also damaged the bcm for some odd reason. So had to replace both :(
I don't think you ever responded when asked about your BCM replacement. Did it fully resolve the issue? What was the cost?

The driver's window and door lock in my 2005 Colorado LS crew cab have been failing intermittently for at least a year. After trying every possible solution posted here and on ColoradoFans, I finally decided to purchase the Dorman master switch module ($100 shipped). The problem remained. I suspected a defective switch, so I returned it for another and still nothing. I am now waiting for my 3rd switch to arrive, but I'm pretty sure, at this point, that it's not the switch module. If 3rd switch doesn't work, it has to be a ground problem or a faulty BCM. I hope lil nene will respond and confirm whether or not the BCM replacement was successful.
 
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