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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So the front two speakers and tweeters in my truck are barely audible, and the quality is pretty lousy as well. The rear two are decent at best.

This is what I intend to install:

Head Unit
Front
Rear

I've never done it myself but after looking through the how to on this site and watching a couple youtube videos I feel alright about it. My question is, do you think the factory wiring will be fine with all this? Have you personally done a similar swap and left it in? Just don't want to rewire everything if it isn't necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I'm on a service member budget here haha, I'm really only upgrading the head unit because the stock one provides such little power and has no auxiliary or bluetooth, so I can't play anything from my phone. If I could get a touchscreen for roughly the same price I'd jump at it but to me it's just not worth it for $100...
 

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Check out crutchfield.com and order your stuff through there. They'll give you the best prices and they'll give you everything you need plus directions and tech support along with a warrenty. For a dyi project it's the perfect way to go.
 

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Problem with the factory speaker wiring is that its very small-gauge, and even worse, in the front there's only one wire for both the low-range and the tweeter. There is of course a "bass-blocker" capacitor inline with the tweeter.

Some folks here have managed to get new wires thru into the doors, but when I installed speakers I tried and ran out of time.

I have extra-tiny hands and couldn't get the damn wire stuck thru the rubber boot that goes from the door opening into the door.
Pulled the door-stop and opened the doors all the way as far as possible before the door damaged the fenders, but no deal.

I say ya gotta pull the damn doors off the truck to push new wires through..
 

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DK Moulds
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If you have time..and patience and want to run better wire..now would be the time...not sure if there is a better way..but when I ran my new wire..I ran it through the rubber boot..but the plug ins are right there on the cab...I took my dremmel and notched out a small ope ING right below the connector finished running inside the truck..silicone the hole..then install the grommet back over the plug in...it wasn't funny but it can be done.

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If you have time..and patience and want to run better wire..now would be the time...not sure if there is a better way..but when I ran my new wire..I ran it through the rubber boot..but the plug ins are right there on the cab...I took my dremmel and notched out a small ope ING right below the connector finished running inside the truck..silicone the hole..then install the grommet back over the plug in...it wasn't funny but it can be done.

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Yeah, I gave it an hour or so and I totally failed.
I'm hoping to try again this summer, but I'll be damned if I can see how you managed it without removing the door.
 

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Has anyone tried to tape the new wiring to the old wire and use the old wire as a pull to snake it through.

Sent from AutoGuide.com App
The wire isn't just snaked thru the rubber boot into the door..
The wires terminate in a plastic multi-pin connector.

One half of the connector is mounted to the door opening. The wires from the door terminate on the mating half. In other words, the door wiring plugs into a connector mounted to the truck body.

What others have done is separate the two connector halves and then drill a hole through both halves of the connector in a small area where there are no contact pins.
They passed the new speaker wires thru that hole.

To see the connectors you have to peel back the boot.

As I posted before, my hands are tiny like a 12-year-old girl's.
I uncoupled the link that stops the door at wide open so that it opened way farther, right to the point where it was about to crease the edge of the fender.

Even so, all I could manage was to get the boot peeled back and get the connector halves apart.

I couldn't get the connector to pop out of the hole where it's mounted in the door opening.
There's a plastic tab you gotta push in to release it so it'll come free.

The only alternative is to remove the door... from that point it would all be easy.
 

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DK Moulds
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Yeah, I gave it an hour or so and I totally failed.
I'm hoping to try again this summer, but I'll be damned if I can see how you managed it without removing the door.
Come to think of it...I think I did remove the front ones...and have them propped on a chair....it wasn't fun I do remember that.

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The factory speaker wires are fine for your needs. Running new wires though the doors jams is a major pain in the ass.
Problem is there's only one circuit.
That one feeds both the woofer and tweeter through a "bass-blocker" capacitor.

If you want the best sound possible from better-quality speakers you need one wire for the woofer and a separate wire for the tweeter so you can bi-amp or at least use a better-quality passive crossover.

I'd settle for the whimpy factory wire for my tweeters... for that it's sufficient.
I want a second conductor though for my low-midrange drivers.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for all the replies folks, I feel a lot better about using the factory wiring now. A guy from work had me convinced I would wind up with a dash fire. I do plan on using a different headunit than the one I listed though now that I think about it, for one that may power those speakers better and that has more than 4 channels should I some day want to expand further. I don't intend to but why limit myself now.
 
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