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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello, I've got a 2010 Colorado Crew Cab V8 Z85, 71,000 miles. About two months ago, on a 30 or 40 degree morning, I was driving on the highway and first, my speedometer was reading low, then it was stuck and wouldn't drop back down. I drove it straight to the Dealer and they said the cluster needed to be replaced, and it just happens my warranty is expired. I thought I'd do some research before paying the dealership $500 for the same junk cluster to be put back in the truck. Well, yesterday, I had the same issue that it was reading lower than what I was actually going, but the needle was dropping back down this time. I've done some searches on the Colorado/355 forums but I haven't found any other posts with this problem on the 355. I have found it was an issue with 2003-2007 Chevy's, and that lead to a class action lawsuit and Chevy giving a warranty for clusters up to 70,000 miles. Mine is at 71,000 miles... Very strategic for Chevy I'm sure. I also read a blurp that this is due to a faulty stepper motor, but then I read the later models don't have stepper motors...
Any advice out there?

Thanks,
Kyle
 

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It certainly sounds like a faulty stepper motor. I'm not positive your cluster has stepper motors, but based on the fact that very little changed in these trucks from 2004 thru 2012, I think you do have them. I have changed them in a Trailblazer but not on a 355. There is a company on ebay that repairs and also sells clusters for Colorados. A few members here have good dealings with them. You might contact them to get a positive answer to your stepper motor question. Digital Dash Solutions Cluster Testing Repair Service Sales Fix My Gauges 0629 | eBay

Please keep us updated. This is an unusual problem.
 

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Yeah this is news to me, but you'll have to find the diagrams and trace the circuit then test it all with a meter.

If the clusters bad like he said some pop up on here and you can find them on eBay or through junkyards just make sure it has less miles than yours if used.
 

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I don't think there is any way to reliably trouble shoot a stepper motor without a test bench. They operate off of a variable input signal from the BCM and are hard mounted on the cluster circuit board. Gauges that don't move, move erratically, stick at some reading or read at maximum are usual indications of stepper motor problems. The problem with changing them involves the desoldering/soldering and getting the needles back in the proper position. GM had a lot of problems with some of the earlier stepper motors and probably upgrade them at some point.
 

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maniac mechanic
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He can rule everything else out though. What if he has a bad ground on the circuit causing the stepper motor to have an inconsistent resistance making the gauge read off? This is more likely the caus to me since GM is notorious for bad grounds.
 

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Yes, that is true. However, the signal is transmitted over the serial data bus, making it more difficult for the DIY to trace. I was incorrect when I stated that the signal was from the BCM. The signal comes from the ECM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I watched a youtube video of the stepper motor replacement. It Looks pretty easy, since I do my own soldering. I will contact Digital Dash Solutions to see if they will tell me for sure that I have a stepper motor before I take the cluster out of the dash.
Thanks for now. I will update when I know something for sure.
-Kyle
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I fixed the Speedo today. It was a bad stepper motor. I ordered one from Digital Dash Solutions for $20 off eBay. It took about an hour to replace it.

Here is how to remove the cluster:

http://www.355nation.net/forum/how-interior/7408-how-remove-cluster.html

Here is how to replace the stepper motor for the 2003-2006 Cluster (it's pretty much the same, see notes below):

How to replace your stepper motor - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum

As I said, the procedure is pretty much the same. I found out, after breaking one of the clip-tabs off the clear cover, that it is not necessary to remove the cover at all. Just unscrew the fascia and board from the back side. Also, I did not risk putting the masking tape on my fascia. I don't feel it is necessary with the Colorado cluster. The gauge pointers (or needles) extend out to the marks on the dial, so it is very easy to see exactly where to set the pointers. Take a picture if your afraid you will forget where they go. The fork trick worked perfectly and did not mar the fascia at all. It is very important to only move the pointers in a counter-clockwise rotation, even the fuel gauge, which may seem counter-intuitive at the time. Another note; make sure you follow the advice to test the cluster before putting the cover back on. Here is why; once I reconnected the wires and turned the key "on", the stepper motors re-calibrated themselves. They actually jumped 1/8" clockwise. With the key still "on", I had to move them back, counter-clockwise 1/4", which was one "click" back. Then I turned the key "off", then back "on", and all was good!!

Thanks for the help,
Kyle
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

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Thanks for the picture. I don't see the attachment pins on the bottom, but from the top it appears to be quite different from the ones I've seen on the Trailblazer. The two holes that appear to be for fasteners, are an addition. Are they used on your installation?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
This is a different motor than the Trailblazer uses. Those are actually not through holes. As you can see from the top side, they are blind holes and at the other end, they protrude which is used to space the motor away from the board. Just solder the 4 pins into the board.

Here is the top side:

 
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