Finished my install just need opinions
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Hub to fender, I'm sitting at 23 3/4" and fender to ground I'm at 37 3/4"
I don't know the measurement of how much I lowered the differential but I used the spacers that came with the smaxx keys and I'm assuming they were 3/4" thick.
I don't know the measurement of how much I lowered the differential but I used the spacers that came with the smaxx keys and I'm assuming they were 3/4" thick.
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They look ok. Make sure you get a front alignment.
Seems all good. The spacers should be about 3/4", standard for a crank that is well within spec.
23 3/4" is very safe. You shouldn't have any problems aligning either. Just double check your heights before you get an alignment so you can address any sagging that has occurred since you lifted (it will sag initially).
23 3/4" is very safe. You shouldn't have any problems aligning either. Just double check your heights before you get an alignment so you can address any sagging that has occurred since you lifted (it will sag initially).
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Alright because I talked to Larry yesterday and he said I could go up to the full 24" on the hub to fender measurement but that it would put a lot of stress on the suspension when it travels up. Now I just need new shocks in the rear to level it since mine are worn out
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Lol I'm at 24 3/4 on STOCK KEYS from hub to top of fender and 40 1/4 from the ground.
![ImageUploadedByAG Free1395265895.712364.jpg]()
and a washer diff drop lol
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Sent from crappy AutoGuide.com Free App
Except for blocks - unless you want to lower it. LOL
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top of fender? never heard of anyone measuring from there... but whatever helps you get that extra inch
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I didn't mean top of fender. I measured to the bottom of the top fender.. My point is why do you need aftermarket keys? My keys are stock and lifted higher than aftermarket recommends.
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Which fender is the top fender, and which is the bottom?
Most trucks don't need keys. But thanks to advertising people are persuaded into purchasing them. The ad's of "retain factory ride" and "lift your truck for cheap" are real eye catchers. When in reality factory ride is not maintained at all with any torsion bar lift. And factory keys to lift are free, not just cheaper. LOL
However, older trucks, or even some new ones, will have torsion bars that sag out of reach of the factory key making a key with a different index necessary to turn it as far as necessary to achieve lift.
I've got new keys because my driver side couldn't get as tall as the passenger side. The most common scenario. Even with coil springs, the driver side will sag more rapidly as there is always a driver and less often, a passenger weighting that side of the vehicle.
Most trucks don't need keys. But thanks to advertising people are persuaded into purchasing them. The ad's of "retain factory ride" and "lift your truck for cheap" are real eye catchers. When in reality factory ride is not maintained at all with any torsion bar lift. And factory keys to lift are free, not just cheaper. LOL
However, older trucks, or even some new ones, will have torsion bars that sag out of reach of the factory key making a key with a different index necessary to turn it as far as necessary to achieve lift.
I've got new keys because my driver side couldn't get as tall as the passenger side. The most common scenario. Even with coil springs, the driver side will sag more rapidly as there is always a driver and less often, a passenger weighting that side of the vehicle.
How are you measuring to determine the sag of the rear end?
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I measured it hub to fender just like the front. I read on here that the stock height is 22" and with the shackles set at 2" I'm sitting at 23"
The rear fender is about 3/4" lower than the front when the truck is level. So if you measure from hub to fender lip then it's going to read less, and be level.
GM figured having less fender clearance in the rear was a good idea. Perhaps because stock has a rake, it may 'appear' more level if the fenders are more level when at stock heights.
Measure the body under the truck. If you look below your door you'll see a small flange, about 1" or so that runs the length of the body. It's the sheet metal that is bent and there is a bolt head (horizontal) visible about inline with the door hinges. If you measure that at the front of the body and the rear (between the wheels) you'll get a good idea of the level/unlevel stance.
GM figured having less fender clearance in the rear was a good idea. Perhaps because stock has a rake, it may 'appear' more level if the fenders are more level when at stock heights.
Measure the body under the truck. If you look below your door you'll see a small flange, about 1" or so that runs the length of the body. It's the sheet metal that is bent and there is a bolt head (horizontal) visible about inline with the door hinges. If you measure that at the front of the body and the rear (between the wheels) you'll get a good idea of the level/unlevel stance.
Oh...well then it sounds like it's about as right as it needs to be then.
You hadn't specified the numbers were different, my assumption was you lifted until the 4 fender wells matched measurements.
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