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Discussion Starter #1
Thanks to everyone for all the available information here. I've made good use of the tutorials and have learned a lot. Just looking for a little more info before finishing off the lift this weekend.

So added the Pro-Comp AAL and the rear is up about 2" or so. Unfortunately, I didn't measure before...but did compare the two sides after getting one side done, and it's right about 2". It's sitting significantly higher in the rear than the front now and I think I have plenty of room for some larger tires...thinking 32s probably. Going to crank TB to be level with the rear, so again, thinking about 2".

Also going to be putting on new shocks, but I'm a little confused. I've seen Rancho 5300 for the front...that's what everyone seems to be saying. However, according to the Advance Auto Parts website:

Rancho RS5000 Shock Absorber; Front; 4WD; w/ 0" Front Raised Height; 2 Req.
Rancho RS5000 Shock Absorber; Front; RWD; Front Torsion Bar Spring; w/ 0" Front Raised Height; 2 Req.

For the rear, I've read 5325 or 5190, but according to the Advance site, the 5301 is good for 1-2.5" rear lift.

Thoughts?

Also going to be dropping the differential a little bit, but need to know what size spacers I'm going to need. I'm thinking I'll just stack washers to get the right space.

Any input is appreciated, thank you.
 

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If you are lifting the front of your truck via torsion bar crank the spacer for the differential is 3/4" thick. You can go more but it is advised to use longer bolts. SuspensionMAXX sells a 3/4" spacer kit for use with stock bolts and 1.25" thick spacers and new bolts.

More importantly, if you are lifting the front via torsion bar, take a measurement from the center of the hub to the lip of the front fender. Exceeding 24" is not recommended, however 24.5" is still acceptable. However the ride becomes quite harsh and you may end up with concerns for your ball joints.
The measurement is taken while the vehicle is at rest and parked on a flat surface.
The purpose of that information is to inform you that you may not achieve a level vehicle as a result of your AAL and torsion bar lift. Also something to consider, the rear fender/hub measurement will be less by about 3/4" (I believe 3/4") when the vehicle is level. By design, the fenders will not read identically from front to back at level.

I'm not familiar with the lifting you are installing, so if my info isn't accurate I apologize for your time.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Are you saying that the rear will end up being slightly higher than the front? I'm not opposed to that, so thank you for giving me that info. I'm not trying to really push things too much, so the 24" number sounds good to me.

3/4" sounds good on the diff spacing. Should have also asked what diameter the bolt is.

Thanks again for the info, it's very helpful.
 

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Are you saying that the rear will end up being slightly higher than the front? I'm not opposed to that, so thank you for giving me that info. I'm not trying to really push things too much, so the 24" number sounds good to me.

3/4" sounds good on the diff spacing. Should have also asked what diameter the bolt is.

Thanks again for the info, it's very helpful.
How are you lifting?
AAL (rear) and torsion bar (front)?

You might be level, or you might not be. My Z85 for example, I'm maxed out up front and I sit level with 1.5" shackles in the rear.

And if you aren't already aware, you will need a front end alignment when your front end work is done.
My workflow:
Adjust front end to desired height
Test drive (just a few minutes is fine)
Adjust side to side as necessary
Give it a day or two to settle down, adjust as necessary.
Schedule alignment
But when you measure, for example, the front can measure 24" hub to fender, but the rear will measure 23 1/4". Boy, I sure hope I'm not backwards on that. I'll measure tonight if you still need, or if nobody corrects me in the interim.

The differential mounting bolts are 14mm. So a stack of 14mm washers will do the trick for you if you plan to use washers as spacers.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sorry if I wasn't clear...yeah, AAL in the rear and TB crank in the front.

Once I get everything adjusted and installed, I'm going to go grab some new tires and then get an alignment.

I'll double check here regarding the height before actually doing the work...it'll be Sunday, so plenty of time for someone to come along and correct it necessary.

I also happen to have a Z85, so your info is especially useful, thank you very much.

Any idea about the shocks? Also, if you don't mind me asking, what size tires did you end up with after the lift?
 

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RS5300 will be fine for the front with 2 inches of TB crank.

For the rear rs5301 or RS5325. Both will work for 2 inches of rear lift

Be aware that front ride quality will be stiffer and bouncy. Keep an eye on your upper ball joint angle. Ball joint flip may be needed and should be done before alignment
 

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Yes, on your Z85 with as much lift as you are going to be looking for, a ball joint flip might be a good idea.

I measure about 23 3/4" from hub to fender, maybe a tad closer to 24". I actually can't go further. I have bump stops installed to prevent the Upper Control Arm (UCA) from colliding with something (don't remember what it is). I am just about resting on that stop. If not for the stop I could lift.

I'll take a picture of the UCA interference. I thought I had one but I do not right now.
Of course I could remove the stop, but it's there so I don't bang metal to metal.

You don't have the stop, so the picture will give you an area to monitor for a clash.
 

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It was dark to get any bump stop pictures this evening.
The stop I'm referencing stops the UCA from colliding with a mating component. I can't remember what it is though, without looking.

The only people who have the stop are those who purchase the key kit from SuspensionMAXX as it's part of the kit he supplies. Needed, probably not. If you max the front end and plan to get the vehicle in flexed conditions you may hit. When you lift that front corner the UCA droops and there isn't anything to stop it. When you torsion bar lift, you already reduce the amount of droop available, so you start off in a position that just makes it easier to use the rest of the travel.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all the info everyone. I think I have everything I need. I'll post an update with pics when I get it done.

And if yall can think of anything else before tomorrow, feel free to let me know lol.
 

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Yeah, make sure you are able to remove all of the necessary hardware in advance. If you have stuck hardware, you may find yourself working on the last bolt for 2 days with one side done and a vehicle you can't drive away.

Don't just loosen the shackle nuts, but make sure the bolts come out.
 

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Just a thought... if you plan on cranking/lifting the front more than 2 inches I would use RS5375 for front shocks. These can be used with 1 to 3 inches of front lift. But I know a few guys using RS5300 with over 2 inches of front lift without issue.
 

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I am running an OE size shock up front with about two and a half to three inches of "crank". No problems in almost two years out of my front shocks. I am running the Smaxx shock extensions out back. Cranking in the front does not reduce or elongate the amount of travel in the suspension, as you have not lengthened the spindle nor have you change the position of the pivot points on the control arm. I do have a longer bump stop for the LCA to keep from cramming my tire up into the fender wheel too far, but I do not have the stops for the UCA that 08 Canyon spoke of.
 

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get the shocks for a 4" lift kit and call it a day. its what I ran when I was lifted just like your planning on lifting now. they will work perfectly with the amount of lift your planning for, and not limit you on the amount of droop you get from the front or rear.

There is no knowing without measurements and pictures if you will be sitting higher in the rear than the front, because we dont know exactly how much sag your stock leaf springs already had in them.. so you may have lifted the rear 2"... but you probably already had maybe 1/2" of sag... so in reality, you really ended up with an overall 1.5" from "stock" height... just an example.

do the ball joint flip when your in there swapping out shocks, install the diff spacer, lift until satisfied and go get an alignment. you will be fine. No need to get all scientific and paranoid on measuring fender to hub 24 or 24.5 or 24.25"... as long as your not literally riding on your upper control arm bump stop, your safe.

Obviously, the more lift you obtain by cranking, the more premature wear goes into your entire front end, specially if you do any kind of serious offroading.

If your leaving on your stock 15" wheels , you can safely and easily run 32x11.50R15 or even 33x10.50R15.
 

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I am running an OE size shock up front with about two and a half to three inches of "crank". No problems in almost two years out of my front shocks. I am running the Smaxx shock extensions out back. Cranking in the front does not reduce or elongate the amount of travel in the suspension, as you have not lengthened the spindle nor have you change the position of the pivot points on the control arm. I do have a longer bump stop for the LCA to keep from cramming my tire up into the fender wheel too far, but I do not have the stops for the UCA that 08 Canyon spoke of.
Stock length shocks may max out at full droop especially without the SMAXX UCA bump stops which is why I recommended the RS5300 or something similar. Even with a heavy crank the RS5300 will max out at full droop which is why I recommended RS5375 for 3+ inches of crank.

Or use the 4 inch lift kit shocks like OJ suggested and call it a day
 

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The higher you lift the front the more rigid the front suspension becomes. Keeping it around 24" or less will give a nice look and still offer a controllable ride. Mine is pretty rough, and when going through curves with bumps, my truck will 'skip' across the bumps because the suspension can't articulate quickly enough.

The reason for slow suspension cycling is that the geometry between the UCA and LCA are altered enough that they begin fighting against each other.

This thread can easily turn into a debate about what is 'correct' but ultimately it comes down to how much of a compromised ride do you want. And if you are okay with increased wear. For the most part, it's all good.

Many have had cranked bars for a while and eventually move into a subframe lift because the ride is better and stuff doesn't break. :D
 

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If a stock oe measurement shock bottoms out before the UCA reaches the "tower" stop, why would they not put a longer shock on it from the factory? My Monroe OE heavy duty replacements have the exact measurements as a stock shock, and they do not reach bottom at full droop of the suspension. A stock truck UCA will rest on the "tower" when the front suspension is unloaded, so that would mean the stock shock would be over extended everytime a stock truck was jacked up to rotate the tires or work on the front end. Doesn't make much sense to me to engineer something that way.
At full droop stock shock would not reach LCA mount. Had to raise it up about 1/2 an inch to get the bolt in. I think @Undead Rado experienced the same thing. That is why Smaxx gives front shock extenders with their TB key kit
 

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I'm talking about after a TB lift. That is why Smaxx includes front shock spacers if you are using stock shocks. UCA will hit tower or bump stop (if installed) and fully extended front stock shock did not reach mounting hole on LCA. This was my experience. Had to install the shock spacers until I got longer shocks
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well got everything installed and cranked. Measuring just over 23" around. Yall must have been using shackles to get to 24 in the rear i guess. Cranked the torsion bars to get close but didn't want to sit higher in the front. I've got 235 75 r15s on there now and there seems to be plenty of room for maybe 32s now.

Too dark for picks tonight, but I'll get some posted tomorrow after i actually get the new tires installed.

Thanks again for the info.
 
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