Ok cool thx for all the info Rick! I had to cut those wires cause a few months ago my one fog went out and damaged wiring was the culprit so I just electrical taped it back together and the other day I undid the tape and properly twisted the wires back together after using alcohol on them and then soldered them, then put electrical tape around them again for water protection. But I'll buy a multimeter tonight when I get off work and test for continuity in the + and ground in the -. I really hope I don't need to replace the entire factory wiring harness, but it's starting to look that way ain't it? Lol
Hey Rick I should probably mention thata few days ago when my fog HID's went out, I immediately plugged in my old halogens into the original fog connectors and only the passenger side lit up. So then I switched the bulbs and still only the passenger side lit up. I took apart the electrical tape on the drivers side and found the wire freyed so then I twisted it back together and tested both bulbs again. Both halogens lit up. I then proceeded to solder the wires on the drivers side and then NEITHER halogen bulbs lit up! Maybe the harness fried in between soldering thats the only explanation I can think of...
Hey I read that link a couple times but its way above my head. Would I just connect the red pin to the purple side of the end of this connector and the black pin to the black side of the end of the connector to test for continuity?
The whole fuckin time my fuse was blown. Apparently I didn't know how to KNOW if a fuse is blown. Clearly it is blown on the center lmao. Halogen's work in the old connectors now. Plugged in low beam HID harness to fog lights and the fogs worked. The fog light HID wiring harness was the culprit. Not the factory wiring harness.