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Discussion Starter #1
I really like this truck, but damn it's making it hard these days...

So in April/May my truck starts making some rattle and clunks in excess of the normal 355 noises. Everything I've done so far has either exposed or caused (shrug?) a new issue to arise. So far I've done the following:

- Got someone to rock the truck while I felt around under it. Clunking seemed to be coming from the sway bar, so I got new bushings (MOOG Problem Solver) and greaseable MOOG endlinks. When I pulled them off, sure enough the stock links were shot. The bushings were a little oval'd out but probably could have kept going. Anyway, new parts. Problem solved? No.

- Noticed by rocking the truck at the front I could still replicate a clunk. Pull the driver's front wheel to check ball joints and tie rods, sure enough I could shake the rotor... in both directions. Hub was shot. Ball joints and tie rods displayed no play at all. Did both hubs, and also rotors and pads because screw these captive rotors (well, tried to do the driver's side, couldn't get it loose, rotors and pads were shot so I'd have to pull everything off again anyways. Gave up, bought parts for both sides and took to a pro because again, screw this rotor setup). Feels solid. But...

- Now the driver's front caliper is sticking on me, like it did to me last year. Lubing it fixed it last year. Lubed it. A week later, it's sticking, overheating and squealing again. Try again to lube it, good for another week and then sticks again. Do some research, find that the anti-rattle bushings can swell with the wrong grease. And also the bushings were on the top and I seemed to remember them being on the bottom last summer. Little more googling gives me no definite answers but enough to decide to take a shot in the dark. I installed new bushings and swapped the pin with the bushing to the bottom of the caliper. Driver's side no longer sticks! However...

- Within a week, the PASSENGER SIDE starts sticking. On top of that, if you play with the brake pedal right around the bite point, it now has a squidgy feeling to it, similar to the feeling you get when rubbing together your finger and thumb with moderate pressure, and a new clunk has manifested itself when turning corners at low speeds over an even mildly uneven road. Or 3-point turns, or turning into driveways etc. This you can feel through the wheel as well as the pedals. The earlier clunks were felt mostly through the pedals.

So far I've done nothing about the latest set of problems, other than regrease the passenger slides the first Saturday of July, and about a week ago retorque the slide pin bolts as I was using 35lb and found out the real number was 47lb. Brakes have occasionally squeaked at me after a long run, but haven't been overheating. Yet. I've taken to checking the brake temps, and until now they've stayed fairly even. But today the passenger side seems to be getting hotter than the drivers side again. So all of these issues still remain.

Other details:
  • Apart from all this, there's a feeling that I'd put down to wheel bearings if I hadn't just done both hubs. Almost grinding. Only occurs when loading up the steering one way or another, but I can also feel it if run over a crack, lane marking, etc... I'm pretty sure it's just a side effect of better endlinks and stiffer sway bar bushings... but not 100% sure.
  • It seems like a lot to go wrong all at once, so I'm pretty sure I can tie it back to a pothole I hit on a dirt road in March. Hit pretty hard with the drivers side wheel on a fairly soft road. I think it's more likely that than everything just wearing out at the same time.
  • I'm going to replace the slide pins entirely and see if that helps.
  • Since the latest rattle seemed to start around the time I switched the pins so the bushing was at the bottom, I called the dealer and spoke with the shop foreman about the pin position. He said the bushing is DEFINITELY meant to be on the bottom.
Any thoughts? I'm running out of ideas. I'm wondering about the intermediate steering shaft, the rack (which is leaking a bit, but has been for probably 2 years) or the notorious rack mount, but other than that... ‍🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️
 

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I blame the steering rack bushing for just about everything!

Mayhem Metal Works makes a once and for all solution that I always recommend.
 

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You sure got a lot going on here. The one thing I can tell you is the caliper guide pin bolt torque value is 29 foot pounds not 47 but that's going to fix your problem . You may need to rebuild / replace both front calipers . To eliminate an doubt as to the pin with the bushing being on top or bottom go to a parts store and ask the counter person to bring out a loaded caliper , then check the pin placement . Any decent parts store will do this for you , it's all about customer service .
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I blame the steering rack bushing for just about everything!

Mayhem Metal Works makes a once and for all solution that I always recommend.
Is that for the rack mount, or for the leaky ends of the rack?

You sure got a lot going on here. The one thing I can tell you is the caliper guide pin bolt torque value is 29 foot pounds not 47 but that's going to fix your problem . You may need to rebuild / replace both front calipers . To eliminate an doubt as to the pin with the bushing being on top or bottom go to a parts store and ask the counter person to bring out a loaded caliper , then check the pin placement . Any decent parts store will do this for you , it's all about customer service .
Torque value for the bolts was from here: Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Colorado 4WD V8-5.3L (2010) > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Caliper Replacement > Page 6296
Which is supposedly the actual manual. But it never mentions anything about bushing placement, weirdly. Going to a parts store to check is a good plan. I've been trying to avoid stores, but there comes a time...
 

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Is that for the rack mount, or for the leaky ends of the rack?



Torque value for the bolts was from here: Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Colorado 4WD V8-5.3L (2010) > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component Information > Service and Repair > Brake Caliper Replacement > Page 6296
Which is supposedly the actual manual. But it never mentions anything about bushing placement, weirdly. Going to a parts store to check is a good plan. I've been trying to avoid stores, but there comes a time...
I'm using the torque value from ALLData , I guess it's not that big a deal but I sure wouldn't go over 47 ft lbs . Thanks for that link to that site . Good stuff .
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah, I thought it was a lot too but ALLData said the same thing so I figured it was legit. Maybe 29lb is for the 04-08 brakes?
 

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I didn't see where you mentioned whether your truck is 4x4 or not, but my 2010 4x4 z85 still had the rattle clunk after replacing nearly the entire front suspension, I replaced the cv axles just recently(ripped boots) and the rattle/clunk is gone. There was ALOT of wear inside the CV's.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I didn't see where you mentioned whether your truck is 4x4 or not, but my 2010 4x4 z85 still had the rattle clunk after replacing nearly the entire front suspension, I replaced the cv axles just recently(ripped boots) and the rattle/clunk is gone. There was ALOT of wear inside the CV's.
It's 4x4. I did the CV test where you back up while turning and I didn't hear any noises as a result. I did get underneath and check them today though and make sure. The boots are in good shape. There is a small amount of in-and-out play... Which I THINK is acceptable? I don't think there's any play when shaking them up and down.

How did you finally figure out that it was the CV's? Was there some smoking gun or was it just the last thing left?
 

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It was not on purpose, lol the cv's were replaced due to the boots having ripped, the cost of replacements was easy enough on the wallet and last winter during hunting season, I did get the truck hung up a few times exploring it's capabilities. I noticed that if either front tire was up in the air or in the mud anywhere near full extension and with the wheel rotating under power, it would rise up to nearly ride height and then drop as it completed a rotation. That was a sign the CV's were binding and I took it easy until I replaced them.
 

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Just to throw out more food for thought is this . GM TSB # 07-02-35-006E ,12/02/2008 .
Subject : Clunk or Knock Noise Heard and / or Felt through steering wheel or brake and accelerator pedals - Replace lower steering intermediate shaft . Now this is for 07-08 models but it may be a good idea to check yours out just for good measure.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'd looked at that before but took another look... Never noticed this before: "This issue may be more prevalent in hotter temperatures."

Hmm. Sounds familiar now that I think about it. Any idea how you'd check that shaft?
 

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Most likely it's going to be your interpretation of the symptoms in the TSB . A visual look might not reveal much , that leaves a physical inspection which means you have to remove it to check for any obvious defect . It's only two bolts , but not much access .In a perfect world I would remove it and lay it next to a new replacement and compare it for wear and looseness . Then install the new one if you need it , or return it if the original is sound .
 
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