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Discussion Starter #1
2010 2wd with 57,000 miles, front brakes and rotors need replacing, my question is should i replace the bearings and sensors while i am doing the brakes, i can hear a low growling sound at low speed that sounds like it maybe coming from the front hubs, if i turn the wheel in either directions the noise does not go away, (the normal way to detect which bearing is bad). however if i apply a little pressure to the brake pedal the noise stops, there is no play in the front bearings. how many miles are people getting from these bearings
 

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You should be fine unless you really run the truck into the ground constantly. The noise your hearing is most likely the slight contact of the pads to the rotor and it will be less noticeable when pressure is appiled. Pull the wheel, caliper, and pads off and spin the rotor. If there is something else wrong you will notice it. With just 57k on the truck it shouldn't be the bearings but you might need brake pads.
 

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I'd be more concerned with why the bearings are toast at 57,000 miles. This is a one time thing, normally. Now if you are beating on it, that is understandable. Also, 57,000 on brakes AND rotors is ridiculously low too. Any idea what happened to the rotor?

Should you do the hubs (hubs/bearings are an assembly), look into a high quality hub with the ABS ring preinstalled to rid yourself of future ABS headaches.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
pads are low need replacing, rotors are a little scared not bad, but these days i always replace rotors when new pads are replaced, i had the dealer drive it and the tech said the bearings are bad and it is common, i am just pissed that they would go so early, but i remember when GM had a lot of problems with the bearings or the grand ams years back, what kind of miles are people getting on the original brakes i drive it easy and take care of it
 

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Most people get 100,00 on brake pads. Rotors can be turned. If you have a shop nearby that turns the rotor on your vehicle, go there. It will save you tons of headaches.

My pads are really bad now and I'm around 75,000.

I don't read too many posts of 2wd folks replacing bearings. The 4x4 guys do, but they put demand on the hub/bearings with lifts, larger tires and off road use.

The hub removal may be easier on your 2wd vehicle. If it's not a job you normally do yourself, doing it at home on this truck isn't always the best learning vehicle.

I read more stores of people causing ABS problems after doing front end work, and may of them did not have problems before the work. They are just pretty sensitive...and the sensor ring needs to be installed about as perfect as perfect gets, from my understanding. If you are comfortable doing the work then go for it. There are also many who have done the work with success.

I'll be getting my rotors turned after I install pads. The shop here turns them on the vehicle.
 

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Nope not that common that the bearings are shot at 57k if you drive like a sane person. Do you happen to know the dealership people that said it is the bearings? They may just want in your wallet to help them with the holidays. And that may not be, or whatever. Let me see if your 2 or 4 wheel drive that may be the deal.
 

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Ahh I see your 2 wheel drive. That being I stand by the bearings being fine at your mileage and if the truck has had normal wear n tear and upkeep. You may want to do the test I posted earlier before paying for a sumpin sumpin. Or get the opion of another shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
i would just hate to have the rotors turned, put good pads on then have the rotors warp after a while, i have replaced hubs w/bearings and sensors intact on an 06 2wd it wasn't bad at all, i am just worried that if i have to bang the hub off i might rune the sensor and i won't know it until it is back together, what is the test you are talking about, maybe that the pads are dragging causing the growl
 

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If you are warping rotors under normal conditions in short periods of time then there is a problem someplace. I mean turning them now and replacing pads should be the last time you do it-one would think. Not usual for most vehicles, but that's my understanding of the longevity for this braking system.

Good luck either way. Since you have the prior experience you shouldn't have problems.
 

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, what is the test you are talking about, maybe that the pads are dragging causing the growl[/QUOTE]

If your talking to me just reread what I said , starts with taking the wheels off. Pretty simple.
 

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i would just hate to have the rotors turned, put good pads on then have the rotors warp after a while, i have replaced hubs w/bearings and sensors intact on an 06 2wd it wasn't bad at all, i am just worried that if i have to bang the hub off i might rune the sensor and i won't know it until it is back together, what is the test you are talking about, maybe that the pads are dragging causing the growl
If you have a 2010, the antiskid sensors are not even close in configuration to a 2006. On the 2010, the sensor is mounted in a hole in the knuckle and is not attached to the hub assembly. It does not need to be disturbed when removing the hub assembly.

 

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Once the truck is in the air grab the wheel and shake it from left to right or up and down. If there is play in it then the hub is bad, I've had to do my driver side at 90k and now the pass side is going at 108k.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
ok there is no play in the bearings i thought the growling was coming from the bearings but i don't think so any more, i pulled the brakes apart there is still a good 1/4 to 5/16 of an inch in the groove down the center of the pads and the rotors are looking real good so i figure i have at least another 10,000 on the pads while apart i greased the pins and the pads were pretty tight in the bracket that they sit in so i pulled the sheet metal clips off and knocked off the rust build up where the ends of the pads mount into everything is a little quieter when back together so it does not bother me as much now, buuuuut i have a new issue that should be started under wheels but as long as i am here, i have always ran snow tires on the back well this year i found another set of wheels for the front to run snows all the way around, yep they are 15" same as the extra rims i have for the back, hmmmmp did not know that there is an issue with 15" rims going on the front well i already have the new snows mounted, from what i could see (i did read later that there are bigger rotors on the newer trucks hence the 16" wheels) the bracket that the caliper mounts to is the issue, the outer edge where the pins slide in and out, again not the side where the pins enter but the outer most edge is what is hitting the rim has anyone tried wheel spacers i think 1/2" might be enough or what about taking a little off the outer edge of the bracket that the caliper mounts to yeah that sounds extreme any ideas
 

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Seems to low of mileage for this kind of service...
 

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2009 and newer require 16" rims to clear the brake system.

Sounds more common to what you found on further inspection as far as your brakes not worn out. You'll be surprised.....I bet you get more than 10,000 miles. At 40,000 when I pulled the wheels for an inspection (I had just purchased the vehicle), I thought brakes were new until I started reading how long brakes last.

What kind of tires do you have on the truck right now?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
General Grabber HTS 215 70 16 these are the original tires that came on the truck i rotate them every 6000 miles and run snows on the rear during winter these tires are done none, does anyone think spacers would work to push 15" rims far enough away to clear the caliper
 

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Well, the tires shouldn't be making so much noise that it is mistaken for bad bearings. I wondered maybe if you had something a little more aggressive causing the hum.
 
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