[Airspeed]

My fuel gauge in the dash cluster is not reading properly, seems to be all over the place. Way up above full, half empty, where ever, but stays in one position while driving.
Note: my low fuel warning works properly? Always displays low fuel and I usually take about 17 gallons.
does this mean the problem is the gauge in the cluster ?

2012 Canyon, 3.7l, auto

 

[Unfettered]

Yes

 

[Markmac]

I would go after the sensor in the tank before I blamed the gauge

 

[cart7881]

My fuel gauge in the dash cluster is not reading properly, seems to be all over the place. Way up above full, half empty, where ever, but stays in one position while driving.
Note: my low fuel warning works properly? Always displays low fuel and I usually take about 17 gallons.
does this mean the problem is the gauge in the cluster ?

2012 Canyon, 3.7l, auto

Does the fuel gauge needle always return to '0' when the key is in the off position? The fuel gauge is not connected to the sender in the tank. The ECM is monitoring the sender signal and controls the gauge using the Data Bus. If the indicator stepper motor is failing the gauge will often stick in some other position than '0' when powered down.

Does the fuel gauge always act the same regardless of the quantity of fuel in the tank?

 

[Unfettered]

The gauges in these rigs aren't the best. The '09 had the temp gauge go all over the place. Only time it would reset to zero and kind of work was when the battery was pulled. Scan gauge had the temp as correct. It was kind of fun sometimes to turn the truck off and watch the gauge go over the top.

 

[Dragon08]

As usual, Cart is right on. I have this issue with my 2010 as well. Like Unfettered mentioned, the signal coming from the BCM is correct, as I have verified with my scan gauge. As you noted, Airspeed, the Low Fuel light chimes at the appropriate time, so the BCM knows whats going on. That tells you the sender unit, and the BCM are OK. The issue is in the stepper motor in the cluster. The tell is what Cart said, the needle does not return to 0 when powered down. If your needle says anything but 0, then the reading will be suspect. For example, if I know I have a half tank of fuel, but the needle says 1/4 with the switch off, then it will likely go to about 3/4 when I start the truck. I too have had it go to 1 1/3 indicated, which looks silly. I reset my trip meter when I fill up, and try to look at the gauge before turning the key just to keep my mind correct on the real fuel level.
ALSO, I have noticed on my truck, that I can turn the key on, then turn it off, and keep doing this power cycle a few times and often times the stepper motor figures itself out.
Yeah its annoying, but its not enough to make me want to replace the cluster over it.

 

[Airspeed]

Like you say … my gauge is all over the place when the ignition is first turned on, anywhere from 1/4 and all the way up to 1-1/3 and never parks at 0. I have seen the term stepper motor in a couple of the posts, now that has my interest going. Being on old retired manufacturing engineer in circuit board assembly and spending a lot of time in FA I’m going to pull that cluster out and put it on the bench. I will let you know what I find.

 

[cart7881]

I haven't seen any information regarding replacing a stepper motor on one of thes trucks. I found a pretty detailed write up about stepper motors, on a Trailblazer, that has some important pointers that would apply here. How to replace your stepper motor

Stepper motors are available on Ebay.

 

[Airspeed]

I have no idea what the circuit looks like but in a lot of cases you will find a cold and or fractured solder joint especially if it is a flex circuit. If there is a component failure I will be SOL.
When I think of stepper motors I see big high voltage high torque robotic stuff. I’m curious to see this little micro unit. I can’t get to it for a while so it might take me a couple of weeks. I will keep you posted.

 

[OldTime]

I see that you're up for a challenge digging into the cluster circuit, but a used cluster isn't costly at all. Since it's plug and play, if that's truly the issue, your done and onto other things. Just something to consider. If you dig into it posting back a video or pictures would be interesting.

 

[Airspeed]

I FIXED it !!!! Sue enough it was a fractured solder joint, real easy to see for a person with good eyesight, me I needed a 5x eye loop. Those servo motors mount with four large terminal and they are normally fairly robust but the automotive environment has some extreme condition, heat, cold and vibration. I just touched it with the solder iron and gave it a dab of solder… it’s good. I have a (not so good) photo of the actual fractured solder joint, just don’t know how to post it.

 

[Dragon08]

I'd love to hear more about the entire procedure and any pics you have. Typically the paperclip icon will allow you to attach the pics.

 

[Airspeed]

Here is the fractured solder joint, you can see that dark circular line in the solder.
I will work on a more detailed process at a later date

 

[cart7881]

Here is the fractured solder joint, you can see that dark circular line in the solder.
I will work on a more detailed process at a later date
View attachment 344963

Great troubleshooting/repair! Thanks for returning and updating the Thread. It is already helping someone.

 

[Dragon08]

For sure. I very much assumed it would just be something I have to live with. But maybe not!

 

[Airspeed]

So to remove the cluster is a fairly easy operation.
1. the plastic bezel around the cluster just pulls straight off.
tilt the steering wheel down and move the shift lever down to the 1-2 position
pull the top of the bezel first, there are two spring retainers, then the bottom, two spring retainers. I used nitrile gloves that gave me a good grip to pull.
2. the cluster is held in by (4) hex screws, 7mm or 9/32. you will need a 6" extension. The cluster comes right out, it has a fairly long wire to the connector so it is easy to work with. The tricky part is the release / latch on the connector, not sure how to describe it. Push the top part to the right and the latch will rotate and release the connector, it works really nice. Seems like every connector your touch on these cars has some secret lock release tab.
3. you will need a clean space to work on the cluster, a large lint free towel would be ideal.
4. remove the clear plastic cover from the front. I used a small flat tip screw driver to release the tabs.
5. now this is where it gets tricky. You will need to rotate each one of the gauge needles to it's home position (zero). When you gently move the needle you will feel it stop, that is home position for the servo.
6. this is where it gets real tricky. removing the needles. I used to crab fork and made a fulcrum lever to gently pry the needle up. they make a very loud crack sound when they start to move. repeat that process (4) times.
7. from the back side you will need a T10 or T8 torx, (not sure) to release the black cover and circuit board.
8. Inspect the board and all the solder connections for cold and or fractured solder joints, touchup as required.
9. to reassemble mount the circuit board to the gauge display with the small torx screws
10. press the gauge needles back on assuring they are in the zero position. do not press them flush to the display they need clearance to rotate freely about .020" to .040".
11. at this point before you snap the clear plastic cover on take the cluster back to the car and very carefully plug it into the connector, rotate the tricky little latch on the connector. turn the ignition on and watch the gauges move (don't touch them). turn the ignition off and assure all needles move to their proper zero position. If not back to the bench and R & R the needle to the proper position.
12. install the clear plastic cover and install the cluster assembly

I know as soon as I post this I will see some major error in the write up, use this only as a general guideline. I'm not responsible for mishap in the rework process.

 

[lewisrassel]

Scan gauge had the temp as correct.

Nox Vidmate VLC​

 

[cart7881]

Scan gauge had the temp as correct.

Nox Vidmate VLC​

Are you just replying to post #5 or do you have a problem to discuss?