This is so dope. Been following this thread since the beginning and every time I look through it again I want to do it more. I'm looking for more lift and travel up front, as I got some 285/70r17 tires that rub like hell on my badlands TB lift. Since a new RC or Skyjacker 4" kit is like 1600 bucks and doesn't offer any extra travel, the H3 front swap seems like the move. I don't have any fab equipment at my apartment so I cant do it myself, but how long do you think it would take an offroad fab shop to do it? Theres a junkyard H3 nearby for parts, and then probably a few hundred bucks in labor? Or do you think it would be more like a grand in labor? Were talking small-town Mississippi so pretty low labor rates btw.I have just finished this swap as well, after finding this post. Here are some things I learned.
If you have these stock rims it won't work. The calipers are too large and the top ~4mm makes contact with the rims. I thought the 4mm difference in offset between these and the stock hummer rims wouldn't matter.
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I wanted different rims anyways so It didn't matter much, and I think a 1/4" spacer would fix this.
Then I got my new rims and they made contact with the front of the brake caliper, so I had to buy a 1/4" spacer. Really I only needed like 1/16 of an inch to clear it.
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Anyways while it was on jack stands before I realized that the rim was touching and had caused the truck not to move. I had taken the wheels off and was testing some vibration that I noticed in the front drivers side which ended up just being the rotor not being held against the hub. I had a screw driver in the other rotor to make the side I was interested in spin. Then the truck wouldn't apply the brakes(scary as hell even on jack stands) and it threw an ABS code. I think it was only because I had that wheel stopped. Now that I have test driven it around the ABS light when off, so splicing the wires together does work!
Here are some pics I took.
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This is how much longer the upper control arm is.
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Some things I learned:
I still need to add it up but It was around $1000, but I got almost entirely new parts. When my ABS light came on I was mad I didn't just do an SAS, but with no light I'm glad I did it! I can't stand when the DIC displays codes...
- I ended up removing the sway bar, because the Colorado's sway bar has smaller sway bar link holes than the H3. (I want to try drilling them larger, but I broke the drill bit trying)
- Also the lower control arms has that bracket with the nut in it for the rear mount. You don't need them. You need to find an extra set of the front mount nuts, because the bracket just hits the differential/differential shaft, and its impossible to put them in with that nut bracket deal.
- I cut the bump stop off before I installed everything, because I didn't care to test if it was in the way or not.
- If you want to paint the lower control arm, don't get it powder coated... they weigh too much to paint...
Oh here are some reasons I wanted to do this swap:
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- I needed new brake rotors and pads
- I needed new shocks, and didn't like that the Colorado didn't have any Monotube options that I could find.
- I wanted more braking power(I think I need to do the rear swap as well)
- I wanted more suspension travel
- I plan on getting bigger tires, maybe eventually 35" tires. I have 33" tires that I need to put on once I get it lifted. I couldn't get the rear shackles off, and I think I put the keys in on the wrong position. The front is currently at 3/4" taller than the rear, and the CVs seem to be level if not pointing up slightly.