Chevrolet Colorado & GMC Canyon Forum banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
I have just finished this swap as well, after finding this post. Here are some things I learned.
If you have these stock rims it won't work. The calipers are too large and the top ~4mm makes contact with the rims. I thought the 4mm difference in offset between these and the stock hummer rims wouldn't matter.

View attachment 341131 View attachment 341132
I wanted different rims anyways so It didn't matter much, and I think a 1/4" spacer would fix this.
Then I got my new rims and they made contact with the front of the brake caliper, so I had to buy a 1/4" spacer. Really I only needed like 1/16 of an inch to clear it.
View attachment 341133 View attachment 341134
Anyways while it was on jack stands before I realized that the rim was touching and had caused the truck not to move. I had taken the wheels off and was testing some vibration that I noticed in the front drivers side which ended up just being the rotor not being held against the hub. I had a screw driver in the other rotor to make the side I was interested in spin. Then the truck wouldn't apply the brakes(scary as hell even on jack stands) and it threw an ABS code. I think it was only because I had that wheel stopped. Now that I have test driven it around the ABS light when off, so splicing the wires together does work!

Here are some pics I took.
View attachment 341137 View attachment 341138 View attachment 341139
This is how much longer the upper control arm is.
View attachment 341141 View attachment 341142

Some things I learned:
  • I ended up removing the sway bar, because the Colorado's sway bar has smaller sway bar link holes than the H3. (I want to try drilling them larger, but I broke the drill bit trying)
  • Also the lower control arms has that bracket with the nut in it for the rear mount. You don't need them. You need to find an extra set of the front mount nuts, because the bracket just hits the differential/differential shaft, and its impossible to put them in with that nut bracket deal.
  • I cut the bump stop off before I installed everything, because I didn't care to test if it was in the way or not.
  • If you want to paint the lower control arm, don't get it powder coated... they weigh too much to paint...
I still need to add it up but It was around $1000, but I got almost entirely new parts. When my ABS light came on I was mad I didn't just do an SAS, but with no light I'm glad I did it! I can't stand when the DIC displays codes...
Oh here are some reasons I wanted to do this swap:
  • I needed new brake rotors and pads
  • I needed new shocks, and didn't like that the Colorado didn't have any Monotube options that I could find.
  • I wanted more braking power(I think I need to do the rear swap as well)
  • I wanted more suspension travel
  • I plan on getting bigger tires, maybe eventually 35" tires. I have 33" tires that I need to put on once I get it lifted. I couldn't get the rear shackles off, and I think I put the keys in on the wrong position. The front is currently at 3/4" taller than the rear, and the CVs seem to be level if not pointing up slightly.
View attachment 341143
This is so dope. Been following this thread since the beginning and every time I look through it again I want to do it more. I'm looking for more lift and travel up front, as I got some 285/70r17 tires that rub like hell on my badlands TB lift. Since a new RC or Skyjacker 4" kit is like 1600 bucks and doesn't offer any extra travel, the H3 front swap seems like the move. I don't have any fab equipment at my apartment so I cant do it myself, but how long do you think it would take an offroad fab shop to do it? Theres a junkyard H3 nearby for parts, and then probably a few hundred bucks in labor? Or do you think it would be more like a grand in labor? Were talking small-town Mississippi so pretty low labor rates btw.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Hey everyone, so im in the middle of doing the H3 swap and I ran into a problem. So I had the badlands lift on my canyon, and I am hoping so still run the diff drop as i'll need some lift after the swap. However the h3 LCA is blocked by the diff mounting plates because they hang an inch lower now. Has anyone ran the diff drop with the h3 swap? I asked Kevin and he said to just cut the diff mounting plate to fit, which is probably what i'll do. Any other ideas?
Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
How did y’all mount your brake hoses and ABS cable to the UCA? Does the ABS go on the rear part and the brake hose go on the front? Or vice versa?? I didn’t have a donor vehicle to look at beforehand. Thanks
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive exhaust Bicycle chain Rim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Yep for the moment. I just checked for slack at full lock either way and zip tied em accordingly
Ok yeah, did you scrap the weird bracket mount things that are supposed to go around the control arm? They seem to kink and restrict the hose more than anything. I’m thinking of cutting them and drilling a hole in the other side so the hose can just run parallel to the arm
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Holy cow, finally got this thing driving right after 3 weeks on jack stands. Time to find a shop that’ll align it. The losers at Midas were terrified of it and wouldn’t do it. Bilstein 5160’s feel awesome, Mayhem Metal Works steering kit is nice and tight, Badlands sway bar link works great, and his diff protector rings looks awesome as well. Just gotta finish up some small things like the ABS, sway bar bracket, and brake hose. The stance on this this is MEAN. Love it.
Water Automotive parking light Tire Wheel Automotive side marker light
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Well well well... if it isn't my stupid decisions biting me in the ass AGAIN. The Detroit Axle CV axle inner joints are already going out. I'm still running the badlands lift with the swap but I guess I just had my T-bars too high for too long. I should have just had the salvage yard pull the CV's off when I got the spindles & LCA's. I didn't realize how shitty the aftermarket CV's are compared to OEM. I just thought that "new" would be better than "used" for something like this. But these P'sOS grumble bad when cresting fast bumps and there's now some wiggle between the inner joint and shaft. and a slight tear in a boot. AND a somewhat-constant vibration. shit.

What brand CV's are yall running, or originals from a part-out? or brand new ACDelco? $500 for a set of new Delcos kills me inside. Thanks for any advice!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Thanks for the replies! Out of curiosity, I've done a ton of googling to try and figure out exactly what the design difference is between the OEM's and aftermarkets' inner joint and couldn't find anything definitive. Both are plunging tripods, (ACDelco's website specifically states that its a "tripod joint") but I've seen these pictures of 2 different kinds of plunging tripods. One being a "closed tripod design" and the other an "open tripod design." Really can't find any info online about them though. Maybe this is the difference?
Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Product Automotive design Font
White Light Product Line Font



The Detroit ones I got have the semi-triangular bell housing like the closed-tripod in the first picture, and most other reman/new aftermarket and the Delcos all have a smooth circular bell housing. I'm close to graduating engineering school so this is all just very intriguing to me.

Regardless, I'm leaning towards picking up the pair of axles off a part-out in the area. It's a bit of a drive, and he won't come down from $150 for the pair, but I'll give them a good look-over and decide. Donor h3 is allegedly stock and has 188k. Should be okay I hope. Freakin Amazon bumped the price of the ACDelcos up from $250 to $280+ this week too...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
just a little update in case people still follow this thread. The H3 suspension with no droop limiter or bump stops KICKS ASS rock crawling. Went and tore up the 3-star trails at Hot Springs with some jeeps the other day. If I had McNeill fenders and CV axles that were not made in china I wouldn't have had any problems whatsoever.
Tire Wheel Sky Vehicle Car
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
So… a little rumor I heard on some H3 Facebook groups seems to be true. They’ve been well aware of the compatibility of the Colorado ZR2’s $4000 GM Performance telescoping CV axles for years. Obviously those would work for us H3 swapped folks too. But I’ve only seen evidence of one H3 owner actually getting them, as the price tag is absurd. Well, you would think that if the GM Performance Colorado ZR2’s cv axles would work, why wouldn’t the normal style ACDelcos? H3 groups’ consensus was that the normal ZR2’s axles were just a hair (<1/2”) too long and the inner joint would bottom out. Well I got to talking with a guy in a H3 group who said he’s installed the ACDelco ZR2 cv’s and that they work fine and he’s been recommending it to several people. So I ordered a set on summit (free shipping free returns) just to see. They have wayyyy beefier joints, thicker shafts, and are $70 cheaper a piece. Well the H3 guy I was talking to ended up being full of shit because apparently he hasn’t gotten his H3 off jackstands since he “installed” them. But I was already done installing my driver side when I learned that. But I cycled my suspension with wheel turned full lock either way, and it works for me no problem. I have no bump stop, limit strap, or droop limiter, so the only thing stopping my travel is the ball joints. And even at full steering lock, at ride height or max compression or droop, these ZR2 axles don’t pop, resist, or even make a lick of noise. The inner joint definitely rides a little farther in the cup than it was originally designed for, but the joint doesn’t bottom out or hit the cup's rim at all. It’s freaking perfect. I just drove it around town for a little while and absolutely no issues. Gonna do the passenger side when I get a chance this week. Super stoked about this. They’re so much better and cheaper than the H3 ACDelcos and now I don’t have to constantly worry about my shitty Detroits exploding. I might mess with the shaft-side inner boot a little and reclamp it a little farther down, but that seems to be the only concern so far.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Coil spring Bumper Suspension
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
That's good news. Trakmotive makes an affordable telescoping cv shaft for a few different applications, but not for the ZR2 yet. I emailed them and they're apparently working on it.
that would be amazing! If they're actually working on it, I'm surprised they didn't start developing one right away when the Colorado ZR2 was first released. Hopefully they follow through. The telescoping ball-spline shaft design with double rzeppa joints seems so much better than any tripod. DMax store makes (or is reselling trakmotive) a telescoping one for all the 6.6 duramax silverados, and they sell them for only $200 a piece. If Trakmotive made some for the ZR2 (and subsequently H3's and us) it probably wouldn't cost a whole lot more. Way better option than getting $2500 RCV's that may or may not work for us, or selling our organs to get the GM Perf ones.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Absolutely. It was the product manager that emailed me back, he said they're currently in development and will be out by the end of this year or early next year.
Hellllllll yessssss. Thank you for letting us all know. That's great news. I'll see if I can't break these ZR2 ACDelco's before then.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
The ZR2 CV axle still working perfectly. Doesnt bind up like the cheap ones did. And holy sh*t does this H3 suspension (with no bumpstops or droop limiters, and with Bilstein 5160 shocks) travel!!
Tire Wheel Plant Vehicle Car
Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Automotive tire
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
H3 swap flex test :cool:
Didn't have a tape measure but it was around exactly 6 boot-lengths up the ramp, which calculates to a score of 607. However, I'm not sure exactly what angle this RTI ramp happens to be. But it was pretty damn steep. Potentially could have gone farther, but the passenger CV axle starting binding so I stopped.
Tire Car Wheel Land vehicle Sky

Tire Wheel Car Land vehicle Vehicle

Wheel Tire Sky Vehicle Car
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top