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MMW makes H3 plate steel non adjustable control arms with poly bushings too. Could likely get them to build the tubular arms with the poly bushings instead of heims. Probably just another $100 or so. Might even be cheaper
 

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So I'm still waiting for parts unfortunately. But I did some digging and found that the press in diameter of the lower ball joints on both the avalanche and the H3 are 44.6mm. Napa even has a lower ball joint listed that apparently fits both avalanche and H3 as well. So I'd have to say this setup will work FOR SURE. I'm going to start ordering the parts soon
 

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Hey Dusty, I found a different thread with you in talking about putting the h3 hub 8n the avalanche spindle, I was just thinkung if that was possible lol. If you don't get anything soon I might test that theory. If anything the avalanche spindle might need minor machining but if I get to it first ill let you know
 

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Hello new here and I have a question regarding the swap, I’m about to attempt this I’m just trying to figure out if the rear lower control arm bushing is pressed in the frame or arm, I have a skyjacker 4 inch kit on the truck that’s coming off and looking at the truck now(haven’t seen a stock one for reference)and the h3 lower control arm I’m assuming it has to be pressed into the mount on frame thank you for any info
 

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Just smack er in with a hammer, it's not too tight. I had the same issue, as I had the skyjacker kit before doing the swap. Smack the aluminum spacer/bushing out, and replace with a stock one
 

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Silverado knuckles, and I believe avalanche knuckles are the same, will bolt to the lower control arm. Both are the same pitch and ball joint size. Silverado knuckles use a different tierod though. The tierod is smaller on the knuckle than the h3. I am building a colorado with a custom upper, h3 lower and silverado knuckles. I drilled out the knuckle to use a emf 3/4 uniball with a tubular upper a arm.
 

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Figured I could follow up with some pictures. The lower ball joint is the same. The tierod would be a problem trying to swap them in while keeping the stock steering rack. Drilling it for heim joint's would be an easy solution. Or trying to find if a silverado tierod has the same thread on the inner side. I had planned on getting a reamer and just opening up the hole to fit the stock h3 tierod but am going to swap it out for a steering box and build it all with 1 ton stuff.
 

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Hey all just finishing up with the swap everything went good thanks to these post, only thing is I believe I installed my tbars wrong as the truck is sitting on the front bump stops,like a half inch from the fender the tire sits, gonna pull the torsion bars back off tomorrow and see if I can see what I did wrong was just wondering if anyone had any input on this. Thank you
 

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Probably should note that when I installed the torsion bars the lowers where at full droop so maybe that could be where o er t wrong as well.
 

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All out of threads but it seems when I put the Weight of the truck back in the ground the bars aren’t holding nothing and the truck just falls till the bumps hit the lower arm if that makes sense pulling the tbars again today to see if I can see what I did wrong thank you for your response man!
 

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Everywhere I’ve looked says the arms need to be at full droop when installed is that correct? Only thing I can think of is that I didn’t line the spline up on the bar and the lower control arm properly but I’m not sure if that can even be possible, I just read about clocking the keys? Not sure if it applies to this, this is my first every vehicle with tbars so should have pay more attention to the splines when coming out hahah
 

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Sounds as if you have the key installed one hex flat off. You should have to apply a little effort to get the keys bolt to start. I have had to use a ratchet strap to pull down on the key slightly to get the bolt started.
 

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Discussion Starter · #199 ·
Hey guys sorry I’ve been MIA for a while. Love that this thread is still alive. Just to update some things I’ve done: ABS is fixed, after getting new hub bearing and sensors i spliced in the Colorado connector and now no more abs light and also the abs functions (have done a few panic stops and driven in the snow and works just as it should). I saw a few people said that this worked I just wanted to reiterate that. Also swapped in the h3 front diff. Pretty much a direct swap other than just trimming a spot on the housing near the pinion where it looks like would’ve been a mount on the h3 but is not on our trucks. I have a z71 Colorado so the stock front diff had a motor on it I would imagine as a locker (not sure if all 4x4 Colorado’s have this). The h3 diff I got does not have this however the 4x4 still works fine and I don’t have any error lights the light on the switch just flashes but it does definitely still engage and work. I did not know that some h3s has e lockers when I did this swap, I definitely would’ve gone for one of those if I knew but I do plan on somehow combining the h3 diff with my stock diff so I can have the locking feature again and the 4.56 gears. I am also going to be picking up h3 front and rear sway bars this Saturday to put on my truck. It’s my daily driver so I’m hoping this will help it feel more planted around corners and on the highway.
 
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