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If you kept the hummer axle tube attached to the diff, instead of swapping it for the tube on Colorado diff, then your front end will be locked as if in 4x4 full time.....just wont get power from the tcase. I'd definitely recommend swapping tubes so your front end isn't always engaged
 

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Discussion Starter · #202 ·
Could you measure the steering racks, because I was thinking the hummers was just shorter.

Also OP must have used a higher quality H3 inner tie-rod, because both of the Napa colorado and hummer ones would have worked for me. I just wanted to save $14. It had 1.5x the diameter of the tierod with the colorado one, so more than 24mm of thread engagement. I read that 1.5x the diameter was the recommended minimum.
I used shit Chinese inner and outer tie rods and upper control arms from eBay that I am currently regretting that. I already changed the inners to moog ones because the Chinese ones were wiped out with a few months. My outers and upper control arm bushings have also been completely wiped out for quite a while now, I am hoping to change them within the next week or so. I ordered AC Delco outer tie rods from rock auto but them seems to not be deep enough to thread onto the moog inner tie rods I have. I am not sure y this is. I saw someone else on this thread had a similar issue, how did u fix it? Is there different combination I should use (Colorado inner h3 outer or vice versa), or just trim the inner tie rods?
 

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I did not know that some h3s has e lockers when I did this swap, I definitely would’ve gone for one of those if I knew but I do plan on somehow combining the h3 diff with my stock diff so I can have the locking feature again
 

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Discussion Starter · #204 ·
If you kept the hummer axle tube attached to the diff, instead of swapping it for the tube on Colorado diff, then your front end will be locked as if in 4x4 full time.....just wont get power from the tcase. I'd definitely recommend swapping tubes so your front end isn't always engaged
I’ve been driving around for a few months with the complete h3 front diff in have yet to have issues with it. It doesn’t feel like it is binding or one wheel is trying to drive over the other while turning when I have the truck in 2wd so I’m pretty sure it is an open diff probably because some h3s r all wheel drive rather than 4x4.
 

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Good to know you're alive Dark knight lol; so I know it's been passed around about the h3 and avalanche spindles are similar; herws what I've found out that hasn't been stated yet, the h3 hub and bolts fit in the avalanche spindle, the h3 rotor however is too deep and rubs on the spindle. The brake caliper mounts are also wider apart on the avalanche spindle vs the h3. Anyone know where to purchase just the spindles for an avalanche that would have a 4 inch lift? I was talking with MMW and they said they may be able to help us lifted guys' predicament but I need said lifted spindle
 

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The front axle will be engaged full time, like on the H3....just harder on the axle. Its really easy to just swap over the colly axle tube.
 

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Discussion Starter · #207 ·
The front axle will be engaged full time, like on the H3....just harder on the axle. Its really easy to just swap over the colly axle tube.
Gotcha, that is my plan whenever I get around to it anyway. Do u know how to fix the tie rod issue I am having that i mentioned in my previous post? These r the ones I originally used when I first did the swap and then I changed the inners to moog ones for an h3 but when trying to change my outer tie rods to AC Delco ones for an h3 they weren’t deep enough so they couldn’t thread on far enough.
 

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I used the h3 rack, so needed both h3 inner and outer. If you kept the 355 rack, then I believe you use H3 outers and 355 inners
 

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I used shit Chinese inner and outer tie rods and upper control arms from eBay that I am currently regretting that. I already changed the inners to moog ones because the Chinese ones were wiped out with a few months. My outers and upper control arm bushings have also been completely wiped out for quite a while now, I am hoping to change them within the next week or so. I ordered AC Delco outer tie rods from rock auto but them seems to not be deep enough to thread onto the moog inner tie rods I have. I am not sure y this is. I saw someone else on this thread had a similar issue, how did u fix it? Is there different combination I should use (Colorado inner h3 outer or vice versa), or just trim the inner tie rods?
Yes I used the Colorado inner to fix that issue. But the employee at the Napa I went to let me measure both and both the H3 and Colorado inner tie rods would work. The Colorado one had over an inch of thread so it’s what I went with because it was cheaper and had enough thread. So I had a Napa Colorado inner and a Moog H3 outer.
 

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I also should make a post about the fact that I put in the H3 rear axle, because my rear axle finally exploded in January.

No ABS light and 4.56 gears feel great!

My truck has traction control which sucks, but with the new axle it will randomly activate when I am trying to accelerate. Which it didn’t do that before. It’s not when I start from a stop it’s usually when I am getting on the freeway and need to accelerate from 50-60 up to 70 or 80 depending where I am. I’ve also had it activate turning left too. Before it would only turn on when I was turning right from a stop when the road is wet or more often when it’s snowy/icy. Also I can make the tires spin and it still doesn’t activate, so I don’t know how it works but it doesn’t play nice with the H3 axle. At least I can just turn it off when I feel it activate. It could also be the 4.56 gears. I did get a thing to calibrate the Speedometer, so it’s not because the shift points are off.

Oh and since I had to do a little research to find the calibrator I know the Superchips Flashcal F5, for 1999-2018 GM vehicles, works with a V8 Colorado. There is a cheaper Hypertech one that works for facelift I5s so like 2008+ 1st gens I think. Facelift being color matched grills and 3.7l I think.
At $215 I probably spent too much, but it’s the only one I could find that I was pretty sure it would work. Their website was telling me only the $400 one was compatible, lol. Also I wanted my speedo to be correct, I hated having it be off by a little. Now it would be off by a lot, and I would just sit there on road trips doing the math on how off it was at given speeds...

All I need to do now is get some 4.56 gears for the front, so I can use 4WD again. Then lockers or maybe at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #213 ·
Yes I used the Colorado inner to fix that issue. But the employee at the Napa I went to let me measure both and both the H3 and Colorado inner tie rods would work. The Colorado one had over an inch of thread so it’s what I went with because it was cheaper and had enough thread. So I had a Napa Colorado inner and a Moog H3 outer.
Thanks for your help man !
 

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Discussion Starter · #214 ·
I also should make a post about the fact that I put in the H3 rear axle, because my rear axle finally exploded in January.

No ABS light and 4.56 gears feel great!

My truck has traction control which sucks, but with the new axle it will randomly activate when I am trying to accelerate. Which it didn’t do that before. It’s not when I start from a stop it’s usually when I am getting on the freeway and need to accelerate from 50-60 up to 70 or 80 depending where I am. I’ve also had it activate turning left too. Before it would only turn on when I was turning right from a stop when the road is wet or more often when it’s snowy/icy. Also I can make the tires spin and it still doesn’t activate, so I don’t know how it works but it doesn’t play nice with the H3 axle. At least I can just turn it off when I feel it activate. It could also be the 4.56 gears. I did get a thing to calibrate the Speedometer, so it’s not because the shift points are off.

Oh and since I had to do a little research to find the calibrator I know the Superchips Flashcal F5, for 1999-2018 GM vehicles, works with a V8 Colorado. There is a cheaper Hypertech one that works for facelift I5s so like 2008+ 1st gens I think. Facelift being color matched grills and 3.7l I think.
At $215 I probably spent too much, but it’s the only one I could find that I was pretty sure it would work. Their website was telling me only the $400 one was compatible, lol. Also I wanted my speedo to be correct, I hated having it be off by a little. Now it would be off by a lot, and I would just sit there on road trips doing the math on how off it was at given speeds...

All I need to do now is get some 4.56 gears for the front, so I can use 4WD again. Then lockers or maybe at the same time.
Did u take the front drive shaft out ? Also it’s possible one of your abs sensors r going bad in the front. I had that problem with an h3 once where the traction control would just start going nuts because one of the abs sensors would just spot reading the speed of the wheel.
 

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Did u take the front drive shaft out ? Also it’s possible one of your abs sensors r going bad in the front. I had that problem with an h3 once where the traction control would just start going nuts because one of the abs sensors would just spot reading the speed of the wheel.
No I haven’t taken the front drive shaft out, and I guess it’s possible that an ABS sensor is going out.

Oh and I did remove the parking brake shoes, because when I was replacing the rotor one of the retaining spring clips for the brake shoes was broken, so I removed the brakes, because the parking brake cable is different anyways. I wonder if the H3 parking brake cable works after the distribution thing under the drivers door.
 

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I modified my stock e brake cables to work with the h3 rear end. H3 cables were too short if I remember correctly. I used two steel cable clamps to attach each end to the e brake linkage on the rear end
 

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Discussion Starter · #217 ·
No I haven’t taken the front drive shaft out, and I guess it’s possible that an ABS sensor is going out.

Oh and I did remove the parking brake shoes, because when I was replacing the rotor one of the retaining spring clips for the brake shoes was broken, so I removed the brakes, because the parking brake cable is different anyways. I wonder if the H3 parking brake cable works after the distribution thing under the drivers door.
I would start by taking the driveshaft out. I drove without my front drive shaft until I got the 4.56 front diff.
 

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I have an H3 rear axle in my 2011. The reason it will not work is because the 355 rear axle has a 40 tooth external reluctor wheel and the H3 rear axle has 52 tooth internal. The trucks ABS/Stabilitrak thinks the rear is going faster than the front. It is getting more pulses per revolution than it is expecting. I have a few ideas to fix this but nothing definitive yet. If I were you, I would unhook those rear sensors before ABS puts you in a ditch, mine just about did and at low speed.

Ebrake - I've read about others using H3T rear cables, I have some but haven't had time to put them on. The way they mount behind the equalizer is different so some adapters will need to be turned on a lathe, pretty simple, again, haven't had time.

Kane

My truck has traction control which sucks, but with the new axle it will randomly activate when I am trying to accelerate. Which it didn’t do that before. It’s not when I start from a stop it’s usually when I am getting on the freeway and need to accelerate from 50-60 up to 70 or 80 depending where I am. I’ve also had it activate turning left too. Before it would only turn on when I was turning right from a stop when the road is wet or more often when it’s snowy/icy. Also I can make the tires spin and it still doesn’t activate, so I don’t know how it works but it doesn’t play nice with the H3 axle. At least I can just turn it off when I feel it activate. It could also be the 4.56 gears. I did get a thing to calibrate the Speedometer, so it’s not because the shift points are off.
 

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So has a fix for the stabilatrac been figured out yet? I want to do this but am worried about the TC and I don’t want to always turn it off. Is there a need to put in the H3 master cylinder and proportioning valve in? I did a rear disc conversion on my old S10 and I just gutted the valve and it worked just fine. Not sure if the same thing would be needed here.

:edited for spelling:
 

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Hey everyone, so im in the middle of doing the H3 swap and I ran into a problem. So I had the badlands lift on my canyon, and I am hoping so still run the diff drop as i'll need some lift after the swap. However the h3 LCA is blocked by the diff mounting plates because they hang an inch lower now. Has anyone ran the diff drop with the h3 swap? I asked Kevin and he said to just cut the diff mounting plate to fit, which is probably what i'll do. Any other ideas?
Thanks
 
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