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Also, what did you guys use for the rear lower control arm bolt? the 355 one seems a little short, and theres no nut welded onto the arm.
 

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*99-06 Chevrolet 1500 4.5" BDS lift spindles (have to ream out the tie rod mount hole a bit to accept the H3 outer tie rod)
*99-06 Chevrolet 1500 hubs, brake calipers, pads and rotors
*Michigan Metal Works Hummer H3 tubular upper control arms (modified to use 99-06 Chevrolet 1500 upper ball joint style, and made with the non-adjustable bushings instead of heim joints, so they can handle the harsh winters here in Alberta)**I wanted the tubular style instead of plate for more room when I eventually try to stuff in coilovers

*Canyon/Colorado 4" Skyjacker lift crossmember, diff drop, and front driveshaft spacer (I'll likely get a custom front driveshaft made in the future)
*RealLift Hummer H3 4" lift torsion bar relocators (just ordered the last set they'll likely ever build for a H3)
*99-06 Chevrolet 1500 4" lift Bilstein front and rear shocks
*Homemade shackles in the rear with Canyon/Colorado Skyjacker 4"lift leaf pack, with extra helper spring
 

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I'll likely get a Metal Mayhem steering rack heavy duty mount as well. I may modify a H3 front differential crossmember ( we dont have them on our trucks, but they do bolt onto our frame exactly the same, just need to modify where it mounts to the H3 front diff I have already, as it hits the oil pan in stock form)
I may even go as far as to Tig weld some gussets for strength on the front differential tube
 

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How did y’all mount your brake hoses and ABS cable to the UCA? Does the ABS go on the rear part and the brake hose go on the front? Or vice versa?? I didn’t have a donor vehicle to look at beforehand. Thanks
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive exhaust Bicycle chain Rim
 

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Yep for the moment. I just checked for slack at full lock either way and zip tied em accordingly
Ok yeah, did you scrap the weird bracket mount things that are supposed to go around the control arm? They seem to kink and restrict the hose more than anything. I’m thinking of cutting them and drilling a hole in the other side so the hose can just run parallel to the arm
 

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Ok yeah, did you scrap the weird bracket mount things that are supposed to go around the control arm? They seem to kink and restrict the hose more than anything. I’m thinking of cutting them and drilling a hole in the other side so the hose can just run parallel to the arm
I used extended stainless braided H3 brake lines. At full droop the stock lines were stretched tight.
 

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Holy cow, finally got this thing driving right after 3 weeks on jack stands. Time to find a shop that’ll align it. The losers at Midas were terrified of it and wouldn’t do it. Bilstein 5160’s feel awesome, Mayhem Metal Works steering kit is nice and tight, Badlands sway bar link works great, and his diff protector rings looks awesome as well. Just gotta finish up some small things like the ABS, sway bar bracket, and brake hose. The stance on this this is MEAN. Love it.
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Well well well... if it isn't my stupid decisions biting me in the ass AGAIN. The Detroit Axle CV axle inner joints are already going out. I'm still running the badlands lift with the swap but I guess I just had my T-bars too high for too long. I should have just had the salvage yard pull the CV's off when I got the spindles & LCA's. I didn't realize how shitty the aftermarket CV's are compared to OEM. I just thought that "new" would be better than "used" for something like this. But these P'sOS grumble bad when cresting fast bumps and there's now some wiggle between the inner joint and shaft. and a slight tear in a boot. AND a somewhat-constant vibration. shit.

What brand CV's are yall running, or originals from a part-out? or brand new ACDelco? $500 for a set of new Delcos kills me inside. Thanks for any advice!!
 
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